new owner, revived lawn from the dead, now fungus?
thereisenrs
6 years ago
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Joe BigBlue
6 years agothereisenrs
6 years agoRelated Discussions
How can I revive a totally dead venus fly trap?
Comments (31)So i am moving my VFT outside and hardening it off. it seemed to be doing okay indoors for a few months but then the leaves started turning black and mushy and dying. i am trying to save it. there are still quite a few green leaves and stems on it. Ive only had it about 5 months and it is in the small plastic pot that it came in with that same potting soil. i water it with only distilled water keeping the soil moist. i read that they need high humidity levels and that they normally live in bogs so its pot should be submerged several cm in distilled water at all times mimicking it’s natural habitat. I’m not sure where i read this but i have been doing this. Now im worried that i have drowned my plant. should i repot it in perlite and sphagnum moss and move it outdoors?...See MoreWhat to do with my dead new st augustine lawn.
Comments (9)Yes I'd like to see the pictures. You were watering far too long at first and then switched to far too frequently. Here's more on watering. For most lawns you cannot go cold turkey from new grass to mature watering, but St Aug and bermuda are much more tolerant of the switch. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall....See MoreArmilleria Fungus - Root Rot - Honey Mushrooms - my dead trees
Comments (6)Actually magnolias are a classic host for Armillaria infestations, if a body is ever going to see a Hellish example of a honey fungus attack to a planted tree it will be on a magnolia. For example the perfectly fine big-leaf magnolia I grew here for years, only to have Armillaria get up onto the stem one year and pinch the top of the tree off in short order. In other words the fungus kills trees and shrubs at ground level, causing the top to topple. And apparently become more accessible to it, because in the case of a tree with a substantial trunk at least it is now a fallen log, lying onto or much closer to the ground than it was before. Armillaria is susceptible to dryness, needs conditions to be moist for it to do well. Hence producing rhizomorphs for coming up out of the soil and onto stems, like subterranean termites with their mud tubes built to provide bridges between the soil and wooden parts of structures. And the fungus proliferating after it gets under the bark of targeted plants, where it is protected from sun and air....See MoreTall fescue lawn emerged from dormancy with dead patches
Comments (7)Christina, I looked up average temps for Tulsa (assuming that would be close to you) and your winter temps look very similar to ours and your summer temps are a little higher but not by much. With that in mind, your tall fescue should winter over and remain mostly green although it will yellow some during the coldest weather. My first cut of the year was February 24th. That was a little earlier than usual but only by a couple weeks. If you have already been watering 3 to 4 times per week that is a problem. With temps in the 70's you really should need to water more than once every 3 weeks or so. Once it gets into the low 80's once every two weeks would be enough but you would need to water a full inch all at once and also take into account any rain you get. I don't think grubs would have killed the grass over the winter. If it was starting to die out now that could be the cause. I would first be looking into some type of imbalance (pH being out of whack or key nutrients being way off) and then maybe a fungus. I would look into a soil test to rule out any issues there....See Morethereisenrs
6 years agoJoe BigBlue
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