What's the sun tolerance of 'Love' variety Hydrangea macrophylla?
7 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (11)
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
Related Discussions
overwintering Hydrangea macrophylla winter protection
Comments (104)My first Hydrangea is now in the ground for more than 25 years. At this point, I keep it for sentimental reasons only. It's gotten so THICK with canes that if I wrap it in my usual cage, I have to get everything so tight in there that I think I may actually be suffocating the plant. I've not had good luck overwintering it in recent years. This past winter I didn't even bother with it. If I were you, I'd consider taking a cutting or digging out a portion of your sentimental one and essentially start over. It would indeed be the same plant, so you could keep your sentiment. But I can understand sentiment. I should get rid of my first Hydrangea, but I'm not. For a long time I would cut back the old canes completely to the ground in the Fall. I'd only leave canes that had shot up from low points on the canes or from the crown. They would have grown all summer and would end up giving me great flowering the next year. I'd have very long stemmed flowers, too, that I had cut. The big problem with this technique is that you end up with weaker stems than you would otherwise and next summer they'd be weighted down to the ground with their flowers. I've found that, for my zone, I can usually prune as hard as I want up until about Fourth of July, just to be easy to remember, and not hurt the flowering potential for next year. After that, the buds start setting for next year and you start running into that problem. (But then I've cut some "nikkos" back to the crown in the Fall and on some I'd get great flowering and on some I'd get none. Do I really understand this? NO.) So, here is another method for you to consider to keep it smaller, at least in height. Another thing I've experimented with is to prune all the wimpy growth completely out and just end up with a few stout canes over time. This was interesting, but you end up with an artifical looking Hydrangea and the few stout canes start looking rather strange. But with this technique, more or less, you could develop a plant that wasn't so crowded. I don't know though. I wish I could help you more. I'd like an answer to the question you have, too! Hay...See MoreHydrangea Macrophylla Endless Summer and Blushing Bride
Comments (2)Blushing bride was introduction of last year and looked quite nice in the nurseries. Prices were too steep for me so I will have to wait. Endless summer I had for couple of years and it has been relialbe performer for me. We shall see how they tolerate this winter when they almost went into full bud this unusually warm Jan....See Moreoverwintering macrophylla hydrangeas in cold zones
Comments (72)July 14, 2016, z4: I live in West Central MN, z4, have had an Endless Summer, Twist & Shout, planted on East corner of house since summer of 2011 (5 yrs at time of this writing). It gets full sun in morning, a little dappled sun in afternoon for a very short time, rich soil, moist conditions, landscape fabric covered with wood mulch, no turf or other nearby vegetation to compete with. This should be perfect Hydrangea conditions, and while this plant has been robust and healthy from the very beginning, it does NOT get anywhere near its advertised size. (Label that came on my plant says 4 to 5 ft tall and wide.) It dies back completely to the ground every winter so growth starts all over, from ground level, every spring, rather late in the spring, and reaches its maximum size of 2 ft tall X 3 ft wide in mid July. This also means it blooms only on new growth. Though it's advertised as blooming on both new and old growth, there is no old growth that survives the winter for blooms to grow on. I do not cut it back in the fall....don't touch it at all.....and leave the old growth until the following season. In the spring, I clean up the dead and fallen leaves from the year before but leave the old stems standing. (I started leaving the previous year's dead stems through the following spring beginning from the time I planted it, always hoping that, if given enough time, they'd come to life and be that "old growth" that would give the plant that bigger size and more flowers. I've given up that idea, but it's just a habit now. It's become one of those, "This is how I manage this plant because I know it does no harm" , kind of things.) Once the new growth is nearing the height of the previous year's stems, I simply break the old ones off as close to ground level as I can without disturbing new growth, usually ending up to be 3-4 inches above ground level, completely hidden by the new growth. Because they're "dead", the old stems just snap off by hand, very easily, and those few inches that may be left behind have fallen into the soil by the time late fall arrives and the plant once again goes into dormancy, has shed its summer foliage, and everything that was living that summer dies back completely over the coming winter. Over the summer and early fall, it usually has up to 12 blooms at any given time, depending on how much TLC it gets. Blooms range in size from 3" to 7" across (older blooms). Each flower lasts a long time. As far as the color of the flowers, some years they are more on the purple side, some years they are a bit more pinkish. Most years, there's an interesting mix of both colors on each individual flower, often times starting out more on the pink side but changing to purple with a smattering of pink as the blooms mature to full size. I don't know how the plant determines, but it does so on its own since I do NOT amend the soil with anything to change the PH level or influence the bloom color. All I do as far as feeding is give it a drink of water soluble "Bloom Booster" fertilizer (10-52-10) three or four times during the summer, beginning around July 1 (when the plant is nearing its full size and focusing most of its energy into putting on new blooms), and ending the end of August, at the latest. I tried giving it a balanced fertilizer beginning earlier in the season and found that it there was lots of green but sparse on flowers and could get rather leggy. This feeding routine seems to give the best results, in my situation, anyway. I'm very fortunate to live in an area of glacier-rich black soil (black gold!) where pretty much EVERYTHING I've ever planted in my 40 yrs of gardening/landscaping grows much larger and faster than what's stated on the labels. I was expecting the same with this Hydrangea, that its mature size would be greater than its label indicated, so I gave it plenty of room, which is doesn't come close to filling. I've decided to transplant it either this fall or next spring (depending on what I find on the internet for info on how it will stand up to fall transplanting in my zone, which I've not yet found). I think I'll put a Black Lace Elderberry bush in the vacated spot and move the Twist&Shout Hydrangea further down the east side of the house, next to a large bunch of established White Phlox just about to break into beautiful full bloom this time of year. That's my only disappointment with this Hydrangea, its ultimate size. According to my experience, it will never reach the size stated on the label in zone 4, where it dies back to the ground every winter and comes back from ground level every spring. An attractive and, so far, hardy zone 4 plant, to be sure, but not nearly as large as some other varieties in the Hydrangea family, and the larger size is what I was wanting when I bought the Twist and Shout....See MoreHydrangea that tolerates afternoon sun only?
Comments (24)Very Nice NHBabs - very nice! Our droughts can last weeks in the Atlanta area but at least we can water, on our watering days up to 10 AM (wet years no one pays attention to these rules). Been here 38 years and have had two summers where we had a total water ban - talk about brutal. We often get sued by AL and FL over the Chattahoochee River so we get a total water ban while AL folks continue watering like its nobody's business (but then they also have the TN River running through the upper end of the state) - not quite fair but what can you do? Use grey water collected in the tub, washing machine, and sinks; AC condensate and hope everything ekes by until the fall rains come in....See MoreRelated Professionals
Horsham Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · East Patchogue Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Salem Landscape Contractors · Bedford Heights Landscape Contractors · Forest Hills Landscape Contractors · Milford Landscape Contractors · Nutley Landscape Contractors · Roswell Landscape Contractors · Stony Brook Landscape Contractors · Crowley Landscape Contractors · Cheektowaga Siding & Exteriors · Manassas Siding & Exteriors · Massapequa Siding & Exteriors · Perth Amboy Siding & Exteriors · Wareham Siding & Exteriors- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Eurybia Macrophylla Fills a Void
Plant bigleaf aster in late fall for late-summer color in the shade garden
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESClassic Bigleaf Hydrangeas Add Old-Fashioned Charm to a Garden
These showy shrubs, familiarly known as mopheads, have long been a flower garden staple
Full StoryFLOWERS AND PLANTSHydrangea Arborescens Illuminates Garden Borders and Paths
This long-blooming eastern North American native shrub finds a home in landscapes around the world
Full StoryFLOWERSWhy You Should Give Hydrangeas a Place in Your Yard
The exuberant mop-headed beauties evoke dreams of an endless summer by the sea
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Oakleaf Hydrangea
Consider this full, flowering shrub for year-round beauty in the garden as you plan your fall plantings
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Axminster Gold Comfrey for Sun or Shade
Plant this perennial for bold color that will light up shady spots, sparkle in the sun and add interest from spring until fall
Full StoryGARDENING GUIDESCalifornia Gardener's June Checklist
Update your hydrangeas, catch up on tomatoes and more ways to enjoy your California garden in June
Full StorySOUTHWEST GARDENING10 Flowering Vines for Southwestern Gardens
These resilient, adaptable plants thrive in the region’s extreme climate and provide a variety of garden benefits
Full StoryLANDSCAPE DESIGNHow and What to Plant in Dry, Sunny Spots
Save water and improve your site’s look with these design tips and help from a pro
Full StoryBLUE AND GRAY FOLIAGE6 Stunning Silver-Leaf Plants
Bring luster to your garden with these shining examples of silver plants for both sun and shade
Full Story
hydrangeahead Central WI 4b