Jade advice needed - pruning/wiring/etc - building the tree
I recently scored a nice jade plant from a farmer's market for $10. It's a cutting from a larger plant, according to the man who sold it to me, and it had grown at a severe angle, as if part of the plant were against a wall or the trunk of the original. I took it home and potted up into a new pot, using something like the 511 mix (lots of fine bark with peat and perlite) to fill in. I'd meant to take photos of the original purchased plant as well as the repotting process, but was too eager. I also made the mistake(?) of watering it shortly afterward with some MiracleGro root growth stuff I had on hand. Hopefully this wasn't too much of a problem, as it looks to me like growth has occurred since then.
Below are pictures of the plant from all four sides. If you watch the rocks at the base, you can follow its rotation.
I went looking for some similar plants that I liked, and these images are basically what I have in mind when I look at this thing:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6WLy0YJVE2c/UbpT0NEkjdI/AAAAAAAAATE/v0LqNthzz3s/s1600/2e8f6a.jpg
http://oi127.photobucket.com/albums/p139/chrisgoh1/jade1102/P7142065.jpg
https://chloeelan.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/jade-Plant-Crassula-ovata-is-succulent-and-one-of-easiest-to-grow-as-tall-indoor-houseplants-that-can-live-for-decades-with-proper-care-728x970.jpg
What should I do now to promote the kind of growth I want? Where should I prune it to achieve the desired effects? Is it capable of handling wiring now? Thanks so, so much for any input and feedback.
What would you do with it?
Comments (10)
Alex (5 - Nebraska)
6 years agoAlex (5 - Nebraska)
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Assistance needed for the good of my jade tree!
Comments (2)It's a long way from dead, and it can recover. It fell over because of lack of water and loss of turgicity (firmness). This can be from not watering, or from root rot. If it root rot, drastic action will be needed. but I think it just the result of dessication. It is also etiolated meaning it's growth is longer and more spindly than it should be. This happens in low light situations. Try to give it more light. So, what to do? First, yes, repot it with some loose, porous, quick draining soil containing 60%-90% inorganic materials like pumice, gravel, or perlite in the 1/8 to 3/8 inch range. Sand is bad because it will compact into cement. Commercial cactus and succulent mixes contain too much peat. Search the forum for how to make a good C& soil. It does not need a larger pot. You could consider something considerably smaller. I think it will probably regain its former glory, but you may need to support the branches for a while with some bamboo splints. Were it my plant, I would be remove all smaller branches on the main stem from the soil to 2/3 of the way to the top. This will lighten the load, making it easier to stand up straight again. You could even go for a more radical hair cut. You could trim off All the leaves, reducing the main stem to a naked stump, and it will still come back. If it is rot, you will need to transect the stem above the roots until the tissue is free of dark discolored fungal infection. The let the cut dry in air for 3+ days, and repot it in DRY soil. Wait two-three weeks before watering. Here is what I would do: 1. Radical trimming with the goal of having a naked, thick stem leading to leaves at the top. This will give the plant a more scuptural look. Callous cuttings, and repot, creating many more new plants. 2. Repotting into better soil. I might use a much smaller shallow pot, depending on the size of the root ball. 3. Support branches if needed 4. Re-hydrate 5. Give it lots of light 5. Wait for new growth Do not be afraid of cutting of leaves, branches, roots, etc. This plant is super tough. Drench thoroughly when you water, but do not water again until the soil is dry top to bottom. They will tolerate drought better than having wet feet. Water is stored in the leaves AND the trunk. Brad...See MoreHelp needed for dwarf jade bonsai tree
Comments (23)If it has roots and you didn't chop off some thick roots, you can pot it and start watering immediately. They will tolerate a good bit of water in an aggregate medium. I have to disagree with Josh about their drought tolerance though. I have 8 foot tall ones in the ground and I have 4 foot tall jades in the ground on a southwest facing hillside and the C.ovata definitely show signs of drought first. They both have the same exposure and they are both well established as in decades established. edit: I noticed Josh mentioned defoliation. Yes P.afra will defoliate before C.ovata in response to drought, but that just makes the plant more drought tolerant....See MoreNeed advice planting a huge jade cutting
Comments (36)Why are you 'wetting the leaves and trunk while in the shower'? The misting mentioned earlier was about the soil, not the trunk or leaves. That moisture can not be absorbed by the plant, but can promote fungus. I agree with others that the wired arm looks dead. I would remove all the dead parts working down until you hit bright green fungus free tissue. It looks fine up until the fourth segment line from the Y branching. The arm may have died simply because it's moisture was resorbed to help keep the main trunk alive during this time of drought. It happens to my plants too. This plant is sure experiencing some strange environmenal extremes recently. I suggest finding a nice bright shade area in a drier room of the house....See MoreCompact Jade Pruning - need advice and opinions
Comments (11)Displaying a 2-D pic for a 3- D project isn't easy only to fall short on actual size and scale Some wire pics could be used as reference. #3 wire in pics On the tree it could look like this . I used the thicker arm to upright a leaning thinner arm and then carried the wire up I'd agree to removing bottom leaves in pairs for space for thinner wire if needed but usually and more commonly when wiring them leaves may fall off on there own and result in an amount of fewer leaves than you had hope for Leaf tips being the more softer are/may be the ones that self remove themselves. Best advice be careful softer tip leaves are the most sensitive to manipulation you want to use a thinner wire in thinner areas on tops. Snug enough to hold them but loose enough to not cut in and chock the branches An apx time frame for how long does the wire need to be on. Here it's apx 6- 8 months before re-wiring or for bending more to htat wanted direction you seek. Your zone VS my zone you may be sooner than 8 check as often as you feel the need usually a firm enough / not vigorous wiggle of wired arms & areas will decrease the wire to not mark. After ALL wire is on a branch you can manipulate the branch or area to go where you want it to go for direction in reasonable increments that wont stress your jade. Thinner area require less time when being directed by wire while thicker areas require longer wire times you may need to remove ( cut )all the wire off after a few months then rewire again IME It's easier to wrap any part of a tree twice ( sometimes even three wraps) with thinner wire than thicker wire but use a wire that is thick enough to give the moving areas enough support. Size matters. A bit off topic the demo is much smaller and is easier to work and can handle some rigorous manipulation because of it's size. but to show a thin wire double wiring up then down to get the entire leaning( space hog) off the pot Single wire to bring the branches up out and away from the main trunk Apx 6 months from now it breaks dormancy for summer all the wire will be gone then re wired again (if needed) prior to it going dormant next season....See More
Crenda 10A SW FL
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
6 years agoSun -sounds like at sundown- for an hour is not enough. Your plant wants more sunlight - you can see it is etiolated. That nice big jade could look like any of the plants you linked to without wiring - they all look to me very healthy, very full plants. I do not see anything that needs wire in those photos.
I do not care for any peat in a mix for succulents. IMO, bark & peat is too water retentive. You could use same bark, sifted perlite and grit instead of peat.
If my plant, I would let it grow as Crenda suggested, especially if it is rootless cutting; and eventually acclimatize to full sun. I have jades, and they have been outside, in full sun, for abut a month - I would think weather is similar to yours? They are getting that nice red color on margins, and there is lots of new growth:
Alex (5 - Nebraska)
6 years agoAlex (5 - Nebraska)
6 years agoAlex (5 - Nebraska)
6 years agoAlex (5 - Nebraska)
6 years agoI did not bare-root it when I planted it, and have been worried that I might should still do so now into a gritty mix. Perhaps if it seems to take this wiring well...
Some of that reddening:
And some of the wiring:
And my topdressing:
I did not deeply inspect the roots when up-potting, but there were some roots.
greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
6 years agoWiring is a great idea, to allow the branches to set in position and not topple the tree with overextended weight. I would prune the extreme ends of the branches to chase the foliage/canopy back toward the center of the trunk.
'Hobbit' wired into position.
rina_Ontario,Canada 5a