Actually, rubber trees are quite forgiving if you follow a few easy guidelines when it comes to their care. They don't like to be watered until the soil is drying down at the BOTTOM of the container; then, they like to be watered THOROUGHLY, so at least 10-15% of the total volume of water applied exits the container. If you can't do this w/o the soil remaining wet for a week, your soil is probably inappropriate and you need to upgrade or take steps that will help you improve how it performs (more on that if required). If you're watering when they are dry an inch deep, you are probably over-watering, and odds favor that as the issue preventing your success with these plants. My suggestion is to follow this embedded link to more information about tending Ficus in containers and read it carefully. In the end, your choice of soil will be extremely important to your ability to manage your plant properly and with the least amount of corrective effort and fewest problems. If you don't find all you need about soil choice, watering habits/technique and fertilizing, you can ask questions there or here & I'll help. Al

Rach - Sometimes, the greenhouse will stick (an actual horticultural term) several individual propagules in a single pot; and sometimes that will stick a single propagule (cutting) in a single pot. Because there may be several nodes on a propagule, and each node is place from which branches often occur, you won't really know if you're dealing with multiple stems from a single propagule or several propagules, unless you dig around in the roots a bit. If they're separate propagules, you can separate them at repotting time. If they're all attached to the same propagule you can remove as many stems as you like by cutting them off flush to the main stem. You can then try to root each propagule individually or in a 'clump' arrangement. You can often tell, if the plant isn't too root-bound, if the stems are all part of the same propagule if you hold one stem and move another around a bit. Sort of like, shaking one limb of a small tree makes the whole tree move. Jontte - F elastica doesn't make a good bonsai subject because its large leaves don't respond well enough to leaf (size) reduction techniques to keep it's leaves in proportion to the size of the tree. There ARE many ficus trees that have the same cultural wants as your rubber tree, but have smaller leaves and much shorter internodes./ There are several varieties of benjamina that are suitable. Also, salicifolia/nerifolia, retusa, microcarpa, are all good. You can also train F pumila to an upright position and get some really nice looking weeping style bonsai with little more skill than it takes to ensure the tree's good health. Al

I have a very similar looking (possibly the same?) plant sold by the name of "Sylvie". Another name I have seen for a variegated ficus elastica is "Tineke". My experience is that it's a pretty easy plant to keep. Southern exposure will help it keep the pink coloration (though the leaves will burn if you suddenly increase the light exposure so you might want to slowly let it adjust to more sun). If you are the type who likes to put your houseplants outdoors during the summer, it will LOVE that. Mine grew like gangbusters from the warmth, sun, and humidity outside. I only stopped taking it outside because I was worried it might have pest problems if I did that.

I found this written by a researcher at Central Florida Research and Education Center "Ficus elastica, the India rubber tree, wasgrown extensively as an indoor tree during the early 1950's and earlier. Today it is difficult to find commercial sources of the plant because it has been replaced with several cultivars listed below: `Decora' was a significant new cultivar at the time of its introduction, about 1950. With its broad elliptical leaves and more attractive growth habit, it soon replaced the species. `Doescheri' has the narrow leaf shape of the species and a striking variegated pattern of green, grayish green, yellow, white and a pink midrib and petiole. `Robusta' is a compact form which resembles `Decora', but is more compact and free branching. `Rubra' has dark, wine red leaves when grown in full sun. Much of the red color is lost as the plant grows under reduced light intensity. `Rubra' is also listed under the names `Burgundy' and `Abidjan'. `Sophia' is a new green cultivar with leaves which are smaller and more rounded than `Robusta'."