What’s your fertilizing routine?
subk3
6 years ago
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Zack Lau Z6 Connecticut
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoHalloBlondie (zone5a) Ontario, Canada
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Tell me your fertilization routine
Comments (7)I suspect most roses will be a bit sluggish after the first flush. Since they usually have a built-in "rest and recuperate" schedule, there doesn't seem to be much one can do to shorten that time-out period, but after all the energy a rose has to use for a big flush of blooming, it only makes sense to feed it again during the rest cycle in preparation for whenever it decides its next bloom period will be. I often go one of two ways (depending strictly on my mood and energy level): in the spring I feed with Osmocote, a 4-month continuous feed--perhaps supplemented near the end of the season by a short-term quickie feed if the roses look like they need some help in, let's say, September. Alternate method (but I'm usually too lazy to follow through): Feed the rose monthly (per package instructions) one of the organic --Tones (RoseTone, Plant-Tone, etc.). Variation on this method: Feed the roses RoseTone before and directly after the first bloom cycle, ignore the hot summer months (roses often go semi-dormant in that heat anyway), and then supply a final feed of Rose Tone in September. Actually, I'm rather erratic in practice--depends a lot on the weather and my energy level. I think I concentrate more on watering them rather than worrying very much about fertilizer. Sometimes I just toss on whatever fertilizer happens to be on the shelf--often just a general 10-10-10 or something like that. And I think sometimes I just don't get around to feeding them--sometimes. They bloom anyway. Kate...See MoreWhat is your rose gardening routine?
Comments (20)In the spring I check to see which Rose bush has a bird nest in it. After they bloom I just sit back and enjoy the view. Once the BS has wiped off most of their leaves I take my handy dandy clippers and remove the dead canes. I also tie up any loose cane so the wind doesn’t harm them. Other than that I do nothing as I figure these guys have been growing a lot longer than most of us. During that time they really haven’t needed us worrying about them…. Oh, I may put down some fertilizer if I remember to do it. Plants are close to 20 years old and still going strong…. well a couple need some trimming of the larger canes. Relax folks and enjoy your roses…..lol...See MoreHey Ben I was wondering if you would share your routine
Comments (14)Hey Jackie, I have the schedule taped to my garage wall, right by all my all my fertilizers and sprays :). I followed it for all my roses, newly planted or old, and got great results. I've grown to look forward to mixing up a batch of whatever according to the calendar. K&M roses of Mississippi, where I order most of my plants, recommends a similar routine. I posted Ryan's routine because I like his calendar format, but that's two great rose professionals in the humid south doing about the same thing. Sharon, I think it'd be great for the frigid NE too, of course you'd adjust the calendar a bit. Dingo, Yes, Mills Rose Magic is similar to Rosetone. Mills Easy feed is more like the dissolvable MiracleGro, except it also has a bunch of organics, too (fish emulsion, seaweed etc). It smells bad but works great! It does come with a nice tight lid haha. I thought using Urea to jumpstart roses in early spring was interesting too, might try it next spring. One more thing: That list was made in 2013. If anyone plans on spraying miticide, may I recommend a newer treatment called 'Forbid 4F'. It's special in three very important ways: It's known to kill Eriophyid mites, which transmit RRD, while many of the others do not. Mites cannot build resistance to it. It has residual of a month or more. You can buy it economically by the ounce on EBay (we have the booming Cannabis business to thank for its availability, lol). An ounce will last a season or more, unless you have hundreds of plants....See More@roseseek-questions about "weakly, weekly" fert routine
Comments (11)You're welcome, Bart. Young plants are like infants, kittens, puppies, etc., they are small and rather tender. it doesn't take much to over dose them and since you're applying "salts", which is the form of the nutrients their tissues can absorb, you want to make sure you're not applying too strong of a solution. So, the half strength is like the "baby dose" of a medication or even baby food. It really doesn't matter how weak the solution is, as it's going to be higher in the nutrients than the water and soil surrounding the roots so they will take it up through osmosis. Nature demands balance. If the nitrogen level is higher outside the root than inside, water is drawn out of the root and replaced with nitrogen, so you want to insure there is enough water IN the plant and that the nitrogen (and other salts) level isn't so high it can damage or kill the plant. Making the full 10 L of solution allows you to spread it around further in the 'baby food' concentration. I think the only way I'd apply the full 10L to one plant is if it's something really large, like a full grown climber or a huge shrub. Otherwise a couple of cups full per established plant should suffice as you have applied fertilizer pellets and you try to use organics so you're really just giving it a boost, like a shot of caffeine or something. If the plant is large enough, like a five gallon sized bush, a liter may be just fine. It's a half strength solution so it's going to give some nutrients, not a full feeding. You're probably only going to use it on new or infant plants as the established plants can easily tolerate the regular application dose. I'll usually use about 12 oz (.35 ml) on a gallon can; about twice that on a two gallon; perhaps a liter on a five; maybe two liters on a larger plant in the ground. That's about what I would apply of the regular concentration on established plants, too, but it's up to what it seems to you works well in your conditions. It really isn't "scientific", just neurotic. I don't want to burn tender plants with a too strong solution, so I cut it in half and apply it twice as often. As long as they are sufficiently watered and the drainage is sufficient, how much you feed the plant depends upon how "thrifty" you are. I don't want to waste the food and I'd like to make it go as far as possible while still providing the benefits desired from it, so if it seems the plant needs more of a boost, I'll likely dump a bit more on it. If the plant is pushing, I may not give it AS much (or perhaps I will, depending upon what it feels like to me at the time). At half strength, you aren't likely to do any damage so how much will likely depend upon how far you want it to spread. If they don't appear to be responding as well as you wished, apply more. If they are established plants, use the normal application rate....See MoreR pnwz8a
6 years agonippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
6 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
6 years agoLilyfinch z9a Murrieta Ca
6 years agodchall_san_antonio
6 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
6 years agobarbarag_happy
6 years agojim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
6 years agonippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
6 years agoallielawson
6 years agomzdee
6 years agopink rose(9b, FL )
6 years agoKen Wilkinson
6 years agoUser
6 years agosummersrhythm_z6a
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoUser
6 years agosubk3
6 years ago
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