I have only discovered this forum recently, so not at all aware of the poor reviews on Viking ranges. I bought my 30" dual fuel Viking range over 10 years ago, and it will be going into my new kitchen. I initially had some trouble w/ the heating element. It was under warranty and Viking covered all the replacements and extended the warranty. It's been fine otherwise and I bake alot. I am very pleased w/ the gas cooktop. Since I have had a good relationship w/ Viking as a company and the product itself, I have nothing bad to say about them. I have a bottom freezer KA fridge , that I estimate at 8 or 9 years old. Never had ANY issues w/ it. LOVE the bottom freezer and will probably always have that arrangement. I have a Bosch DW less than 1 year old that I am very pleased with. This kitchen is open to our family room and quiet operation was high on the priority list. We barely hear it running, just a faint swishing sound . I DO pre-rinse, so have no problems w/ dishes coming out clean. SO in addition to my newer DW, the other appliances are going into my new kitchen. In time I suppose my Viking will die, and I will cross that bridge when the time comes. Beside the Viking I am not brand motivated. Bought the KA fridge due to bottom freezer and good pricing. The Bosch DW was a no brainer. My favorite appliance store was selling a few floor models and I got it for about half price. Good luck in the selection process. I know from my experience in making decisions for my remodel I wavered thru parts and was decisive in other aspects. Sometime you just have to stop the research, decide and then live w/ the decision.

What kind of cabinets do you have behind the range? Are they regular shelves? It seems like the cutting into them in order to put in the electrical and gas connections would be fairly minor. It shouldn't take much space in the cabinets - a few inches high and a couple of inches deep along part of the 30" of the range. If the range can fit flat against a wall, that probably means just the space for a junction box and for a gas outlet and shut off valve. So you won't be loosing much storage space. In most places, code requires having an accessible shut off valve for the gas. We found the cabinet behind our rangetop to be a convenient location for it. The GC may have intended to put in a spacer instead, but it may be better to not lose floor space to a spacer all along the cabinets and have a little lost space in one cabinet. I don't understand why you would have to cut into the cabinets beside the range - it should be possible just altering the cabinet behind the range. I also don't understand why the range isn't going in all the way now - does part of the range project in back? Normally when a range goes against a wall, the gas and electrical connection are recessed into the wall but the range itself doesn't stick into the wall space at all. So your range without the connections having been put in should be able to slide all the way in. Are you sure that the cabinets are installed square? I wonder if they are a little off so that the space between the cabinets gets narrower as you get to the back.

Thanks to all who have responded. I was unable to get back to my computer since I posted so I will reply to all questions / suggestions in this response. Here goes: To weedmeister: tile goes down lastâ¦after the cabinets are in. As you will (or already have read), many of the pro installers will install plywood or some suitable material over the Hardie board to bring the cabinet install up to finished floor height. To monkeymo: You are correct. The solution is to use a stacked molding. My KD did not provide a crown diagram (she had to leave town on family business right after we ordered cabinets). When we met with our âÂÂnewâ KD yesterday to address this issue, she provided the crown diagram which showed the stacked molding. Our order did include the Single Bead Molding which is attached to blocking. As âÂÂlive wire oakâ remarked, the crown is installed on top of the SBM. Nonetheless, the crown that was ordered would still not have reached the ceiling. By ordering the Large Crown Molding (LCM8) we will get the necessary height. To live wire oak: You are correct: this is my first kitchen install and it has been very challengingâ¦and will likely continue to be. However, I will get it done and it will look great! And, yes, had I been aware of the stacked molding that was intended to be used, that would have covered one base. The crown originally ordered has a vertical height of 1 15/16; the LCM8 that we will be ordering to replace it has a vertical height of 2 13/16 so all will be fine. Several installers, including the one that works with HD to install cabinets, have told me that installing the cabinet bases on the Hardie board is perfectly OK. I know where they live so IâÂÂm sure they werenâÂÂt setting me up. :-) To lisa1 517: Thanks for your suggestion. You, too, are right on the money. Stacked it is! To kitchenkrazed09: All I can tell you is that my cabinet, including the base, is 93â tall. Kraftmaid calls it an OC302493. The base is 4 ýâ and the cabinet is 88 1/2â (the front of the cabinet âÂÂoverlapsâ the base by ýâ so it appears to be 89 (does that count for 90âÂÂ? ;-) ). To Buehl: Thanks for your picture. The link I posted and referred to in my post is of the same picture. Not trying to be a smart a**, I just didnâÂÂt want that look with painted cabinets. It really looks nice with your stained installation, however! Once again, I sure appreciate everyoneâÂÂs comments, etc. This forumâÂÂs members are a tremendous resource! I will be posting some pictures as my installation progresses.

Wow....what an amazing list of people.... too many of them no longer with us or active here. It is nice to remember some of their names and their struggles that we shared. Thanks for the memories.