I am using LED strip lights for my cove lighting (40 feet in the kitchen and 56 feet in the living room). I am probably going to use the single density (18 3528 LEDs per foot, about $1 per foot), and two strips -- cheaper than one double-density strip. Similar cheap supplier to Hitlights, LEDwholesalers.com. I'm using a Magnitude 150W dc transformer for the kitchen, and a Technomagnet 300W one for the living room, and magnetic low-voltage dimmers. I'm using the Lutron MFRD-6ND-120 dimmer, which is pricey, but it allows dimming from multiple locations, as well as by RF remote. I didn't have the time/energy to find a cheap LED solution for undercounter, so I am using hardwired GE fluorescent lights, which are approximately $20 per foot. No idea what my contractor is charging for install. I'll be doing the LED strip install, but he will wire up the 3-way dimmers to the transformers and run the low voltage wires to the coves, and the 120V for the UCL fluorescents.

#1) I see the LED UCL DIY thread is full at 150 posts. Is there not a #2 thread? I wasn't able to find one :( #2) I'm putting in a run of undercabinet lights - 32 watts under the cabinets, another 13.2 watts to light up two glass cabinets. The new mini dimmer switches that connect in series to the lights (i.e. the aluminum light bars from EV, Photonier, etc) that work with a non-dimming power supply seems like a very easy and inexpensive way to install, no? I do see they are rated for 40w per SuperBrightLEDs website. -Does this suggest I should put my in-cabinet lights on a second power supply/circuit, in order to stay below 40w for the dimmer switch? I'm fine with all being on the same switch/dimmer. -Can I just get a larger power supply (i.e. 100w from Photonier), split the power up into an undercabinet and in-cabinet run, and then use two mini dimmer switches? Guess I'm not sure if the 40w switch rating is for power in or power out/used....or both. This has me reconsidering getting a dimming power supply instead, that will handle the entire run, and wiring in a wall switch...... To complicate things, I do have a second zone clear across the kitchen that will use one undercabinet 24" bar, and one in-cabinet 24" bar. This are definitely wants to use a single mini dimmer switch for both lights on a cheap power supply (i.e. reminds me of my laptop power cord). It's not really practical to run low voltage from my other power supply - well, I guess I could, but this area wants to be switched separately anyways.

I put in complete kitchen UCLs using LED strips from Environmental Lighting, at the suggestion of some members on this forum. Sales people great to deal with, good advice, and the install was relatively easy (DIY) Mounted the light bars at the front of the cabinets, They are about 3/8" thick. Had my electrician run 14/2 wiring to each wall of cabinets, from a central location in the crawl space, where the transformer is located. Then I ran the thin wire leads from each light along the light bar into the cabinet, where I terminated everything in a shallow box on the back wall of the cabinet. One switch on sink backsplash controls the 24 volt transformer and controls all lights. I did not use a dimmer, but you could by upgrading the transformer and switch. Contact David Vogel at http://www.environmentallights.com/led-under-cabinet-lighting/environmentallights-premium-modular-led-under-cabinet-lighting.html He was a great help.

Then the units are not designed to be dimmed. Check the units detailed specifications to see what their limits are. Bummer for sure.