"1. the window in my room has a draft; is it ok to keep the plant in a corner under one of those new energy-saving white light bulbs, which is cold and pretty bright?" I don't know. As long as it's getting some amount of natural light it should be okay. Mine's not getting great light, and it's the only thing that grows consistently during the winter months. It seems like they can adjust to light differences fairly well but don't like having to re-adjust, so I wouldn't move it around much. How cold are you talking, by the way? "2. Watering advice is conflicting; some places say that soil has to dry between waterings, others advise to always keep it moist." Let it dry. These things rot out fast. "3. there are 4 thick trunks in a small pot. Is it ok to separate them? Any tricks to do it with minimal root damage?" Wouldn't know. Mine came with five stalks. I killed four by not letting the pot dry down between waterings. From what I've heard, though, they like being pot-bound and they don't like being messed with.

From your use of Celsius degrees I assume you reside in Canada somewhere....14úC = 57úF....cool, but shouldn't be too cool for a houseplant in winter. Plants normally now are, while not dormant per se, use a lot less water...and to that you don't say how or when you give water to the plant. Does it drain properly and do you throw out such drainage, not letting it be drawn back up to the roots. The plant's position in relation to sunlight, and to outside air or air from a heat vent. This can affect how much moisture the leaves are taking up. There is very little drier than a house in winter with the furnace on. Cool nighttime temperatures are appreciated at this time....hence the 57ú is just about right. You didn't say just how long you were away and whether you watered it before you went away. Most plants, given a good watering, and good drainage, can go weeks without additional. If they are not growing then there's no need to feed--they couldn't juse it if fed. Most problems with drying out will be noticed first at the bottom leaves of the plant...they are ones closest to the drying roots. Make sure the pot's soil isn't shrinking from the sides and hence, when you water, it goes straight down to the saucer...very little makes it to the roots to stick around. If that occurs, simply add soil to fill the cavity. To assist in drying during winter months, try misting the plant. The leaves can then absorb some of the moisture without giving the entire plant a watering. Watch how the sun comes through the window glass...too close, it can burn--even in winter, sunlight can be too much when close to the window. Draw it back some and as winter progresses, put it closer. The days are getting longer now...winter solstace--the shortest day in the year---so the plant should begin to improve.

Thank you for the link. This is what the roots look like. Do you think it is okay or do you think I should repot it? Also I'm wondering if I should trim the fallen branches or not.

The advice you'd be better off never repotting is accurate ........... if you think the effort of repotting, saved, leaves you better off. As for the plant's well being, the advice taken is a slow death sentence. No plant likes tight roots, and once the roots have reached the point where the root/soil mass can be lifted from the pot intact, the plant suffers limitations and stress related to root congestion that are made manifest in growth rate and appearance. That stress/ limiting effect can't be eliminated without repotting; and, repotting is a much more extensive operation than simply potting up, which leaves the plant with the same limitations it had before bumping it up a pot size, even if growth rate temporarily improves slightly. It is POSSIBLE for an experienced and attentive grower to maintain the plant in a pot w/o drain holes, but if don't already know the answer to the question "can you do it?" you would almost certainly be inviting root health/function issues ........ especially with aralia, which demands excellent drainage and a careful hand on the watering can. It likes very bright light, but if you site it in full sun indoors, you'll need a fan to keep air moving to disrupt the boundary air layer and prevent over-heating. Al