If your plant was healthy when you repotted, it will have plenty of energy (especially at this time of the year) to push a new flush of growth, You have the right idea .... keep it barely moist & in the shade (outdoors if possible) and wait. It's probably transplant shock, possibly made worse if you didn't take pains to keep the fine roots wet while you worked on them. Sunburn (photo-oxidation) is unlikely if you're only concerned about the amount of time in the sun during the repot, but if you're looking for symptoms - leaves turn silver or whitish - never red. The sun releases a free O- radical (the same one that is so loosely attached in hydrogen peroxide) which bleaches (oxidizes) the pigments in the leaf so they turn silver/white. It can't turn leaves red. Al

Pyramids - appropriate pot size isn't determined by how large the prospective pot is, relative to how large the pot that contains the plant now is. It's determined by soil choice. If you use a soil coarse enough that it doesn't support a soggy layer of perched water at the bottom of the pot, you could pot your existing plant in a 55 gal drum today if you want to. Actually, using a soil like that would be very good for the plant, given the plant's aversion to wet feet. Here's a picture of a soil that works extremely well for aralia, followed by something about pot size. I also included a scenario that illustrates the benefits of repotting, which includes a change of soil and root pruning, in comparison to simply potting up a pot size, which ensures limitations related to root congestion will always be a factor that limits growth and vitality. I hope you find the info useful. Choosing an Appropriate Size Container How large a container ‘can’ or ‘should’ be, depends on the relationship between the mass of the plant material you are working with and your choice of soil. We often concern ourselves with "over-potting" (using a container that is too large), but "over-potting" is a term that arises from a lack of a basic understanding about the relationship we will look at, which logically determines appropriate container size. It's often parroted that you should only move up one container size when "potting-up". The reasoning is, that when potting up to a container more than one size larger, the soil will remain wet too long and cause root rot issues, but it is the size/mass of the plant material you are working with, and the physical properties of the soil you choose that determines both the upper & lower limits of appropriate container size - not a formulaic upward progression of container sizes. In many cases, after root pruning a plant, it may even be appropriate to step down a container size or two, but as you will see, that also depends on the physical properties of the soil you choose. It's not uncommon for me, after a repot/root-pruning to pot in containers as small as 1/5 the size as that which the plant had been growing in prior to the work. Plants grown in ‘slow’ (slow-draining/water-retentive) soils need to be grown in containers with smaller soil volumes so that the plant can use water quickly, allowing air to return to the soil before root issues beyond impaired root function/metabolism become a limiting factor. We know that the anaerobic (airless) conditions that accompany soggy soils quickly kill fine roots and impair root function/metabolism. We also know smaller soil volumes and the root constriction that accompany them cause plants to both extend branches and gain o/a mass much more slowly - a bane if rapid growth is the goal - a boon if growth restriction and a compact plant are what you have your sights set on. Conversely, rampant growth can be had by growing in very large containers and in very fast soils where frequent watering and fertilizing is required - so it's not that plants rebel at being potted into very large containers per se, but rather, they rebel at being potted into very large containers with a soil that is too slow and water-retentive. This is a key point. We know that there is an inverse relationship between soil particle size and the height of the perched water table (PWT) in containers. As particle size increases, the height of the PWT decreases, until at about a particle size of just under 1/8 inch, soils will no longer hold perched water. If there is no perched water, the soil is ALWAYS well aerated, even when the soil is at container capacity (fully saturated). So, if you aim for a soil (like the gritty mix) composed primarily of particles larger than 1/16", there is no upper limit to container size, other than what you can practically manage. The lower size limit will be determined by the soil volume's ability to allow room for roots to ’run’ and to furnish water enough to sustain the plant between irrigations. Bearing heavily on this ability is the ratio of fine roots to coarse roots. It takes a minimum amount of fine rootage to support the canopy under high water demand. If the container is full of large roots, there may not be room for a sufficient volume of the fine roots that do all the water/nutrient delivery work and the coarse roots, too. You can grow a very large plant in a very small container if the roots have been well managed and the lion's share of the rootage is fine. You can also grow very small plants, even seedlings, in very large containers if the soil is fast (free-draining and well-aerated) enough that the soil holds no, or very little perched water. I have just offered clear illustration why the oft repeated advice to ‘resist pottting up more than one pot size at a time’, only applies when using heavy, water-retentive soils. Those using well-aerated soils are not bound by the same restrictions. As the ht and volume of the perched water table are reduced, the potential for negative effects associated with over-potting are diminished in a direct relationship with the reduction - up to the point at which the soil holds no (or an insignificant amount) of perched water and over-potting pretty much becomes a non-issue. Repotting vs Potting Up I often explain the effects of repotting vs potting up like this: Let's rate growth/vitality potential on a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the best. We're going to say that trees in containers can only achieve a 9. Lets also imagine that for every year a tree goes w/o repotting or potting up, its measure of growth/vitality slips by 1 number, That is to say you pot a tree and the first year it grows at a level of 9, the next year, an 8, the next year a 7. Lets also imagine we're going to go 3 years between repotting or potting up. Here's what happens to the tree you repot/root prune: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 repot year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 You can see that a full repotting and root pruning returns the plant to its full potential within the limits of other cultural influences for as long as you care to repot/root prune. Looking now at how woody plants respond to only potting up: year 1: 9 year 2: 8 year 3: 7 pot up year 1: 8 year 2: 7 year 3: 6 pot up year 1: 7 year 2: 6 year 3: 5 pot up year 1: 6 year 2: 5 year 3: 4 pot up year 1: 5 year 2: 4 year 3: 3 pot up year 1: 4 year 2: 3 year 3: 2 pot up year 1: 3 year 2: 2 year 3: 1 This is a fairly accurate illustration of the influence tight roots have on a woody plant's growth/vitality. You might think of it for a moment in the context of the longevity of bonsai trees vs the life expectancy of most trees grown as houseplants, the difference between 4 years and 400 years lying primarily in how the roots are treated. Al

Yes, they can often stabilize themselves & come back after a bit (see example directly above). Personally, I never found them temperamental to being moved, but took a Ming I'd grown for a few yrs. to an Indoor Gardening Society Mtg & the moderator was suprised at how well I'd grown it & that I'd even consider moving it, much less bringing it out of the house into the weather (it must have been fall?). I was careful & it was just fine (lost a few yrs. later). Just today, I got a cutting of another Aralia I've never had before. Solid green leaves, roundish, circular, I think I've seen it called something like Aralia "Ruffles". It's in a cup of water, I think I'll try & root it in water instead of moist perlite. Sorry to digress, bur really, just observe yr. plant while you give it time to recover, likely it will.

Good news! I figured out what was wrong with my ming! It was in front of a mostly sunny window and was doing great, but then spring came around and I turned on my A.C. The ming had been getting a draft from a vent in the ceiling! It progressed to looking really bad.. one whole side was almost bare, with the other side still full. I moved it to another place and now it seems much happier. There is some new growth on it and it has not dropped any more leaves. I guess the draft caused the plant to "shatter". Interesting, I had not known they do that! Thanks for the info!