1. Should I have the floor go under the DW and range, or only up to these areas, then use something else of the same height as the floor (11mm I think) to bring the appliances to the right height? One floor rep said you have to bring the floor under the DW so that any leak stays ON TOP of the floor, but another said that any leak would likely get underneath the floor anyway, so it was easier to just run the floor along the front and use something else under the DW. I raise the front legs to the dishwasher, and go just under them enough so the legs will sit on the flooring when I screw them back down. The stove/range can be either. I like to remove the range, but if they are huge, I will go under the front legs. 2. This floor will go on a cement slab, and there is an exterior door in the room. How do I transition from the laminate to the door? Use the same squarenose molding they suggested for your carpet edges. 3. Can I use a T molding at the transitions from laminate to carpet? The Alloc brochure indicates using a square nose at the carpet, but the tack strip for the carpet had to get pulled up in the remodel, so I'd like something to secure and hide that carpet edge. NO, T molding will snap/break/come loose on the soft carpet. You need a square nose, as recommended. The carpet edge is secured with tackstrip and tucked to the squarenose molding. Pull the carpet and pad back. Install your square nose molding. Nail or urethane glue, the tackstrip, leaveing a gap between the squarenose molding, about the same size as the carpet is thick, a little tighter is better. Trim the pad back behind the tackstrip, and then stretch the carpet up on the tackstrips. Hopefully you have enough stretch to trim a little carpet for a clean edge to tuck into the gully(leave long enough to tuck) 4. Since I'm on cement, how do I secure T moldings, or door moldings? Is a construction adhesive OK? You can drill and peg dowl the concrete and then screw down that cheesy plastic channel. I mount the transition in the channel and then cut it to the length I need. Then I use good urethane adhesive, and glur the track down and weight it good. Do not get carried away with the adhesive, as you don't want it to ooze out and glue the laminate in, locking it

It is to "seal" the raw end cuts so moisture will have a hard time penetrating the core. Very wise thing to do on any laminate product. And some pieces may have to glued to run underneath a door jamb.

Flex in the early stages of a laminate floor I always find to be very normal. The flexing will mostly go away within 30 days or so.

Thanks, Brutuses. That looks a lot like what I did with my 3/4" oak on the first floor. I just used a strip of the oak as the transition and it lined up perfectly. In the basement, the planks will be running parallel to whatever transition I use. If I'm lucky, I may be able to just rip a strip to fit against the tiles and not need anything else.