TW says you can't kill bermuda in St Aug but I used to do it all the time. I had an area where I parked the car that was a mix. One year I would water it regularly and mow high to let the St Aug take over. The next year I would not water and the bermuda would take over. The following year I would favor the St Aug and it would take over. I will say that in the long run, the bermuda did win because of the drought we had a few years ago, construction, and my being out of town. Now it is bermuda and zoysia (shadow turf) mixing together.

I donÂt have enough strength in me to hire a different company  I feel bad leaving these guys without a job. Yes, IÂm that weak... Well grow some brass ones, because you are being taken advantage of. Your contractor is use to getting told to take a hike. You will being both of yourselves a favor, fire him NOW. The problem is not your variety of Bermuda grass, keep the same practices you use now, and whatever variety of Bermuda you use will fail. Fire your contractor NOW, he is killing your grass with his advice and practice. Otherwise continue dump money in a bottomless pit. Ok enough of the soapbox stuff. What is giving you problems is watering schedule, fertilizer, and mowing Watering: You are over watering the grass, and is the source of your fungus and weed problems period. You cannot depend on anyone, the grass will tel you when it is time, You have to learn when by observation period. No one can be trusted. GOT IT? To determine if it needs watered is as simple as when you wake up, or go to bed each night. Go out and walk around and look at the grass. When you walk look back where you walked. Do your footsteps disappear quickly, or do your footprints remain? If it springs back means it is hydrated and OK. If your footprints remains it needs water. But the best method is a color change from deep green to a slightly blueish or graying color change. When Bermuda or really any grass is properly hydrated, the leafs of the grass open fully to expose the upper surface to sunlight and looks vivid dark green. However when it dries out it has a built in defense mechanism. The leaf will curl up to minimize its exposure to sunlight to conserve evaporation losses. This exposes the underside of the leaf which is a different color. For Bermuda grass that is a blueish or grayish color telling you to water. Sorry to be ruff on you but you need a wake up call, and learn to take care of the watering yourself. As for fertilizing and mowing, let's stop here until you respond with questions.

Bermuda will require multiple treatments of RU to effectively control it. Using more R/U or for that matter any other herbicide above the label rate actually makes the herbicide less effective. "Burn down" may occur where the vegetation is so severely damaged so quickly that the product is not translocated to the roots. A sod cutter is a great way to increase the density of your Bermuda turf when it grows back and insure that you are removing as much of your precious topsoil and organic matter as is physically possible. A sod cutter, unless it is set very deeply (which makes the rolls extremely heavy) simply root prunes the Bermuda. Where there may have been one plant before ten new individual plants may return. One of the best herbicides to use is a product containing fusilade. It is a selective grassy herbicide and is considered an 'over the top' spray safe for use in the landscape to control several types of grass. The problem it is slow-takes about two weeks to see visible results. R/U very quickly becomes inactivated once it hits soil. I would recommend, a treatment with R/U, till in two weeks, wait two weeks until it shows regrowth and respray and then wait another two weeks to see if it reappears before actually planting. This way not only are your preserving the existing OM in your soil but adding to it with the Bermuda residue. Also, include a sticker in your spray mix. It basically increases the effectiveness of any herbicide by at least 50%.

Was it at least 2 inches? Was it dense? I buried about 200 square feet under 2-9 inches of sand and covered that with mulch. It never did come up through although it did reinvade from the side.