"Look at the comma placement and look at Imidan as it's the "indefinite" listing there. It does appear as though the writer switched it up there, but I don't think there is any mistaking they are saying 2 years for Captan" Apple, The writer didn't switch anything up. As I indicated earlier. The format is the Compound, followed by a comma, then comes the formulation (wp), then the shelf life, followed by comments (when there are comments). I don't understand why you can't see this (Occasionally there are some comments left out, or self life left out, or a comma omitted - perhaps that's what is throwing you off.) The Imidan entry also follows this format "Imidan, wp 2-3" Therefore, according to Cornell, Imidan has a 2-3 year shelf life. This matches the link I posted earlier from Utah State. Contrary to your earlier statement, the IL link you posted does not list Imidan/phosmet as indefinite. It doesn't even list Imidan/phosmet. Cornell lists Methoxychlor as indefinite (i.e. Methoxychlor, wp indefinite) not Imidan. This is consistent w/ what one would expect from studies based on environmental persistence. Methoxychlor is an organochlorine w/ a much longer environmental fate than Imidan/phosmet. The IL link, along w/ the link below, as well as the Utah State link I posted all seem to take their info from the Cornell link you posted. Their comments are even word for word from the Cornell link. These other sources all verify the format I have tried to explain to you. Your interpretation of the Cornell format seems to be unique to yourself. I suppose I have nothing further to add in this regard. If you can't see the format/pattern in the Cornell link you posted, I don't know what else to say. It's so obvious to me. Here is a link that might be useful: Hummert International Newsletter

I have soaker hoses in four separate garden areas, all running off one timer. There are lots of Y connections, which come with 2 valves each. I use sections of garden hose to connect the areas. Where the garden hose needed to cross a lawn, I cut a slot with a straight-edged shovel, pushed the hose to the bottom of the slot, then by stepping on the slot, the grass closed up. I don't have soaker hoses longer than 50 to 60 feet, and I sometimes take the cap off the far end to check that all the water hasn't soaked out before it reaches the end. On one long perennial bed 6 ft wide, I have four soaker hoses in parallel 18" apart. On shorter beds, I wind the soakers back and forth in a serpentine pattern. I try to put the hoses between the flowers, not too close to them. I have a potted plant hanging from a shepherd's crook at the end of one of these beds, so I plugged a drip line into a soaker hose and ran it up the shepherd's crook. It needs a little more pressure to get the water up to the hanging pot, but it works. The pot gets water much longer than it needs, but the extra water just drains out the bottom. Some years I've had the soaker hose on top of the ground, and other years nearly buried in the mulch (barely visible). The water flows faster when above-ground, but when buried, it seems that the flow nearly stops when rain has already soaked the ground. (I have high clay content.) So I don't turn it off when it rains. Squirrels, shipmunks, and winter frost haven't done any harm to the system, but I remove the outdoor timer over winter. I also have a drip system for a potted herb garden, but that's on a separate timer. Jim

Hi Susan: Phyllis Bide is a cross of Perle d'Or and Gloire de Dijon. Gloire de Dijon is a Noisette. Noisette class includes Albas like Felicite Parmentier, and roses begin with "Belle". The Noisette, including Albas prefer acidic soil. Phyllis Bide grows well for Tammy in Tennessee with acidic red clay ... It's best if you test the pH of your clay soil first using the procedure below that I wrote for the English Roses Forum. If your soil is alkaline, even if you mix sulfur in, it won't take effect until 1 year later. I don't recommend sulfur since it kills earthworm. Even with acidic pine fines in, its pH lowering takes a long time. I would buy a bag of ALREADY acidic garden soil made for acid-plants and put that into the ground for Phyllis Bide. If you want Phyllis Bide to green up fast, use blood meal (with chelated iron). Caution: too much nitrogen will stop Phyillis Bide from blooming, so it's not worth it. Why did Phyllis Bide turn chlorotic in your pot? Let's consider: 1) Moisture Control potting soil: dense & wet stuff, less oxygen than the fluffy composted pine potting soil 2) Mills Magic Mix: Main ingredient is alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal is document by BOTH University Extensions to cause chlorosis in marigolds and vegetable seedlings. It's a fine particle so it gunks up on top, blocking airflow from above. When plants are suffocated, they turn yellow. Alfalfa meal did that to ALL my pots. Worst, the pH of alfalfa meal is acidic at 6, perfect for fungal germination. I get black spot with roses in pots topped with alfalfa meal. Alfalfa meal NPK is 2-1-2, very little nutrients compared to sulfate of potash NPK of 0-0-50 (very high potassium). University of Mass. Extension documented most blooms, and biggest blooms with high potassium fertilizer, compared to smallest blooms, and less bloom with alfalfa pellets. I still feel bad about the Boston Marathon bombing, with a 5-year old girl lost her legs.... life is full of pain, pray & love is the best we can do. As to where to test your soil pH? Get 3 samples: one from the pot (to see what's applied changed the pH). One from AWAY from roses. One from deep at the bottom of the hole. Why? the top surface can be acidic thanks to alfalfa meal, but the bottom of the hole, where the roots are, can still be alkaline. Use baking soda as the standard for alkalinity. If you can collect rain water, that's great. pH of rain water is 5.7 or lower. I would buy distilled water, pH of 7, then use 2 cups to boil red cabbage .... turned purple. I also boiled red cabbage in my own well water, pH 8 .... turned blue. Also boiled red cabbage in rain water ... that's pinkish violet. Use hot cabbage juice boiled in distilled water to test 3 samples of soil from your garden (plus a sample of baking soda, another of a slightly acidic material). Compare those with the below: 1) red cabbage boiled in distilled water alone (pH 7) 2) cabbage boiled in your tap water (neutral to alkaline) 3) cabbage boiled in rain water (acidic) Some municipal water-treatment put hydrated lime into their water so pipes won't corrode. Here is a link that might be useful: Cheapest way to test soil pH using red cabbage This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Tue, Apr 16, 13 at 11:15

Fungicides are the least toxic of the horticultural chemicals. Yes Daconil can burn foliage but only under certain conditions (when plants are dried out and temps outsides are hot). I've never had it burn any of my roses because I'm certain to water them beforehand, only apply it early in the season, and limit spraying to the early morning or evening hours. In fact, its a whole lot less harmful to the foliage than lime-sulfur, which is an "organic" fungicide. The only toxic side effect I've read in the literature about Mancozeb is that there is a slightly higher incidence of eye trouble in agricultural workers who routinely work around it. These people don't have the advantage of goggles, a respirator, and protective clothing. They are also exposed to much higher levels and much more often. I've never noticed a marked decrease in insects from the use of fungicides. A bit of perspective. This weekend I visited my 70 year old mother. Before leaving for what is a three hour drive I picked a new blossom of PRETTY JESSICA, a gorgously fragrant new English Rose that I acquired last year. As I was driving I'd occasionally pick up and smell the rose. The powerful Damask fragrance kept me alert and happy during the drive. Such a treat! The flower was still fresh and beautiful when I arrived. My mother immediately wanted me to buy her the rose when I let her smell the flower. I had to gently let her down. "Pretty" as PRETTY JESSICA is, she needs spraying and mom's health won't allow her to put in the necessary work to keep the English Rose looking good in her Tidewater VA garden. My mother was profoundly disappointed. Her rose garden is organic, and lovely as the Chinas and Teas are, they just don't have that certainly "quality" that we've come to expect from the English Roses (and Bourbons, Hybrid Perpetuals, Portlands; all of which are disease mongers). I'm hoping mom will be more pleased as her new garden develops. Duchesse de Brabant and Belinda's Dream in particular should please her. "It is beauty that nourishes the soul." Image of PRETTY JESSICA by Celestial Rose.