A new low at Lowes
mcnastarana
7 years ago
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Question on seedlings that are not good enough
Comments (6)I found this helpful when I was starting out, trying to decide how to select and cull seedlings. It is by the late Bob Carr: - "To start the sorting process and to simplify it, I developed a list of MAJOR faults. I've found that trying to hybridize with a tet seedling that has 2 MAJOR faults is frustrating and for the most part a waste of time. Anything that blooms with 2 MAJOR faults is not selected with very rare exception. The usual exception is if it has a "genetic break" that I've never seen or heard of before. Seldom do I see this. For me, MAJOR faults are: Less than 15 buds. A scape that blooms in the foliage. A scape that can't support the buds and bends. A scape that is way out of proportion to the rest of the plant. A scape that is too tall. A flower that doesn't open well by 9 AM. A flower that has 1 petal that looks like a "bee's landing strip". A flower that has very poor substance. A plant that has poor foliage habits or poor color. Foliage that sticks up straight as an arrow with no bend to it. Branches that are to short or to long. There may be additional MAJOR faults that just don't come to mind at this time. Beside using my MAJOR fault "system", I don't select seedlings that are not a significant improvement over their parents." - I select from a seedling group and cull the remaining over two years. I don't want to give the culls away if they weren't good enough for me to select. I continue to evaluate the select group and will share with friends and relatives and eventually decide what to do with them. I do think it's important to evaluate the plant at least in each season, not just the bloom. Ed...See MoreDifference between low-E low-E4, SunCoat low-E
Comments (3)There are basically five types of LowE coatings currently on the market. Three are "sputter" or softcoats and two are "pyrolytic" or hardcoats. Of the three softcoat products, basic LowE would be considered a high solar heat gain product. LowE2 would be considered a low solar heat gain product, and LowE3 would be considered an even lower solar heat gain product. Andersen's LoE4 has a standard LowE2 coating between the lites and argon gas for energy performance, but it also includes a titanium dioxide coating on the exterior of the window that makes the glass "self-cleaning". Although some folks might cringe at the term self-cleaning, the coating does work quite nicely and you will notice a difference in how they look and in how often you will have to clean the glass. Finally, the "4th" feature of the LoE4 is a plastic film that is applied to the glass in the factory that protects it from dirt and debris and even minor scratches during shipping and handling and install. Andersen's SunII glass is a tinted LowE2 that has very nice solar heat gain blocking ability and also it is nice because it cuts down on glare as well. Milgard's SunCoat is a standard LowE2 product - much the same as the LowE2 that Andersen offers as their standard. SunCoatMax is a LowE3 product. The LowE3 product is very new and has only been around for maybe 3 or 4 months - this doesn't mean avoid it because it is new - it means that it is an advancement of a proven technology and it works really well. LowE3 has the same heat blocking ability as a tinted LowE2 (such as SunII), but with visible light transmittance very similar to a standard LowE2 product - without tint. In the case of a west-facing door that has both heat and glare issues, then you may prefer a tinted LowE but with the understanding that the view thru the door will be less. SunII has either 38% or 40% visible light transmittance (I forget which version they use) and SunCoatMax has 66% visible light transmittance - again with very comparable solar heat blocking capability. Standard LowE2 (including SunCoat) has about a 70-72% visible light transmittance. Standard LowE has about a 78% visible light transmittance, but it also passes significant solar heat which is an advantage in places other than where you live. I didn't mention anything about hardcoat coatings because none of the products you mentioned use them. Also, they are much less appropriate in your environment (primarily cooling) than are sputter coats. No LowE coating has an affect on sound propagation thru the glass....See MoreLow-E 366 or just Low-E or nothing?
Comments (7)My LoE 272 windows replaced Pellas that had no UV coating (as an aside, don't get Pellas, avoid). I have not replaced all my windows (too expensive), but am replacing them a few at a time. So I can compare them since I currently have both. I have several very large windows that let in a lot of light, and there is no problem with that. I do not see that the glass is darker. I definitely notice less burning and sun bleaching my furniture and no longer overheating my south-facing rooms. I will say that my house plants that need a lot of sun have not flowered or grown, even though I was assured the LoE 272 would not affect them. My plants that need less sun like my African Violets are doing well. You should really speak with your contractor too since it sounds like he has proposed LoE 366. My contractor told me our climate doesn't need that though he would have ordered them if I asked....See MoreMarvin Ultimate glass choices-LowE2 or LowE3? HELP PLS!!
Comments (11)I ended up telling Sierra Pacific that they were the same price as Marvin & that I was going to buy Marvin. Sierra reduced my whole house price by $12,000! Hard to refuse that offer. What is the primary difference btwn SP & Marvin? Also- is there a rating that tells you how the glass will reduce the chances of fading my hardwood floors & furniture? Is there more than just LowE2 rating to tell me how well the glass helps in fade prevention or reduction?...See Moremcnastarana
7 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agomcnastarana thanked Moses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USAkublakan
7 years agomcnastarana
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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