@dchall_san_antonio - thanks so much for the reply. The sod shouldn't have been on the pallet for longer than 24-30 hours. We had to wait between rains that were ~9 days apart. The first storm was heavy so the sod farm in Houston couldn't cut. I was told it was cut in the afternoon and delivered the next morning to ATX. It was installed immediately all in one day. The brown spots actually run from one piece to another, around edges as well as across the center of pieces which is why I am concerned about a fungus or disease. We had more rain this evening so will back off watering some more as the soil is super wet. It definitely looks dormant (brown) in spots, not dead (gray). I haven't researched pre-emergents yet. There are really no weeds in the lawn other than the nutsedge, so was hoping to get ahead of the winter ones. I will definitely be able to spray once its all dormant. If there is a pre-emergent that is recommended, I am open to any suggestions. The good news is that it rooted in really well and fast. I can't find a spot that can be picked up anywhere. I was rolled twice the day it was installed and again the next day. It's only been mowed once by my yard crew, prob at 1.5". I am planning to take that over in the spring and will go as low as I can. I am certain I am going to have a leveling project as well. There are plenty of small indentations I would like to address. It wasn't dragged, only raked before the sod was installed. It was a toss up between tif and celebration. I liked the color of celebration a bit more and there is a bit of shade on either side, although one edge/side gets morning to mid afternoon sun, and the other gets mid morning to late afternoon sun. Would love to be able to make one fertilizer application organic. What's the best in your view? I've been using liquid seaweed on my garden beds and have no idea if that would advisable for the lawn. Compost tea is also an option in Austin, especially in the spring. All of the local nurseries have it available for those of us who haven't made our own. Thanks again!

From the Douglas King Seed company website... HABITURF™ Native Lawn Mix Habiturf Native Lawn Mix is a mix of Buffalograss, Blue Grama, and Curly Mesquite that requires less mowing, watering and weeding by simulating nature's short grass prairie. These grasses have similar shaped leaves and color to produce a great looking, even textured, native lawn. The Native Lawn Mix requires 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day to do well. Planting rate is 3 to 5 pounds per 1000 sq ft. Habiturf would not be expected to do well in sandy soils. Please refer to our Native Lawn Info sheet for more details. Habiturf is available in standard bagged quantities of 2, 5, and 10 pounds, but larger quantities are available. We can take credit card orders over the phone, M-F 8-5, and ship anywhere UPS will deliver. 1-888-DKSEEDS. You can also contact The Great Outdoors Nursery in Austin regarding availability. A portion of all sales will be donated for research to the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. http://www.wildflower.org/nativelawns/ Current Pricing (plus tax and shipping): 2# Bag - $62.00, 5# Bag - $135.00, 10# Bag - $260.00 Search Habiturf for images. As an alternative to that I like Tech Turf (aka Turffalo). It can be mowed at any height from 1/2 inch to 4 inches and still look good. It spreads like wildfire which is highly unusual for a buffalo type grass. Here are two pictures of Tech Turf lawns mowed at different heights. Note that it does get both flowers and seed heads (male and female parts). I happen to be allergic to buffalo grass, so I can't roll around in it, but to have it as a lawn is fine for me. In the bottom picture you can see it escaping over the sidewalk. All these prairie type grasses need at least 6 hours of full sun.

Wow! Glad this forum has been helping you. Grass burrs should go away in about a season once you begin to water, mow, and fertilize. They are easily overtaken by anything else that grows. Same with most ant beds - or at least you don't see them once the grass is growing over the bare spots. Does the bermuda seem to have stopped spreading, or are you just impatient with the progress? Crabgrass is a summer annual plant. The seeds seem to be everywhere, but they will only germinate when they have 1) full sun, and 2) frequent spring moisture. So if you can create a relatively dense turf "canopy", then the crabgrass will not get started. Also if you can restrain Mother Nature from providing a week's worth of rainfall in April, you can avoid or diminish the crabgrass. This is why I am so gung ho on watering properly - especially in the early spring. Too many people jump right into watering every week or even every day in the spring. Monthly watering is all it needs, and that allows the soil surface to dry out and not go off germinating weed seeds. I lived in Pecan Valley in San Antonio for awhile. I get your point. My daughter just moved in north of you in Wells Branch. Does that mean I should see wells there? or branches?

I also struggled big time last year with my fall seeding for the reasons you mentioned - I'm in Greensboro by the way. Typically it goes a lot smoother, but Mother Nature sometimes throws a curveball. I have not yet tried seeding in February, though I may give it a shot this year due to a Poa infestation. My back yard is shaded and so that will help with the heat and also with weed control, Bermuda and Crabgrass don't thrive there. Tenacity is a selective pre-emergent in the sense that it will not affect Fescue and KBG germination, but it is also very limited in what weeds it will prevent. For example, Bermuda is not listed on the label as . You would need to use Tenacity at seeding time and every 20 days thereafter until it's safe to use a serious pre-emergent like prodiamine, typically 60 days from germination. Then apply prodiamine for the summer. If you're not seeding, then go directly to prodiamine applied in March at the 5 month rate. It's kick-ass.