skip to main content

300 yr old house, minimal upkeep, what hidden issues to look for?

7 years ago

Ye Olde New England Colonial Farmhouse, dry-stacked foundation, monster central chimneys, weights in the windows, wells, barn, thatched walls, plastered walls, wide board siding and floors, exposed beams, the whole nine yards.
...and the poor thing hasn't had a hands-on "honey" to "honey-do" anything resembling maintenance since Great Grampy passed back in the in the 80s.
I know it was foreclosed upon five different times in the early 1900s before GGramps bought it in the 50s. So we're talking 70 out the past 100 or so years of questionable upkeep.
The only care in the past couple decades has been the grandson, who comes by to mow and rake the lawn (progressively smaller each year as the brush takes over) empty the mouse and snake traps, clear snow, and other little light bulb, drippy faucet aerator sort of things.
Gran supposedly has had professionals come over now and again to do tree work, termite repellant things, and check the furnace (which was a huge cast iron old school beast and they convinced her to replace it with a modern one which has been replaced three times in as many years - aaahhggg!). Exterior was supposedly painted "recently" but you couldn't tell, there's more paint chips on the ground than the house. Overall, not much faith in the 'pros' who could just be someone's cousin's neighbor's kid for all I know.
I'm pretty handy with tools and ladders, just have no idea what to do with a house that's not the typical 2x4 and drywall sort of deal.
Thus far I've replaced the broken panes in the storm windows (stripped reglazed refinished), and have cleared all the plant life and leaf debris from up against the house, as well as started a campaign against the encroaching brush line of invasives. Gutters are next, but after that .... ?
What sort of things might be wreaking havoc unseen?
There is evidence of past leaks so that's what's on my mind, but I haven't the slightest clue how to confirm they've been properly repaired or check for active leaks.
Exterior badly needs paint, but I suspect there are things that ought to be checked/done prior?

Obviously the easy way is to call a professional, but I suspect repairs will take a serious hunk of change so would like to exhaust the 'simple stuff' that I can easily identify myself - however, please do suggest what sort of credentials I should look for in this scenario.

THANK YOU for reading this far, it's a daunting project but I've already learned a lot in my reading and look forward to learning more here!

p.s. Is there a sort of "log" or "journal" section on here, or does anyone have a good suggestion for one? I keep thinking it might be a wise idea and haven't gotten around to it.

Featured Answer

lazy_gardens

7 years ago

WATER! It's the really dangerous thing.

The ONE THING that can wreak a house faster than anything is a long-term roof leak.

What kind of roof does it have?

Can you get into the attic and check the underside of the roof sheathing?

Long-term leaks will make the plaster puff out and get crumbly. A quickly fixed leak can stain but usually doesn't

*********

Second most damaging thing is a long-term plumbing leak, like an unsealed shower.

*********

Do the golfball test for floor level ... put ball in the several places on the floor of each room and see where it rolls. (map this).

Some settling is normal.

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

kamereone
Original Author
7 years ago
Roof is shingles, on top of what, I don't know. Attic is exposed so I can check up there, though its got a lot of history on it... Might leave some "indicators" (TP with marker that runs when wet) in areas that look (recently) suspect.

My bigger concern is water getting in other places - noticed some rot in a couple window sills, which jut out considerably, along with the window frames themselves.

Luckily plumbing is only in the 1850s wing, and not over any of the original structure. But it is certainly a problem, given the number of patches of exposed and degraded plywood I can see while precariously perched on a listing toilet...

Golf ball will confirm and quantify floor slant, but what then does that data tell me?
Related Discussions
Might replace 5 yr old Miele dishwasher :( -need advice
Q
Comments (117)
I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess.
...See More
Guidance for a 21 yr old son
Q
Comments (43)
I have a very similar problem -- my son lives at home, sleeps much of the day away, and does very little to help around the home. Although, he is a sophomore in college and so far has maintained good grades despite what I think is excessive use of weed and not sure what other kinds of partying. He has minimal interest in me, his other family, or doing much except his studying and going out with friends. He is moody and very difficult to talk with about most anything. I am a single mom and I am supporting him through college except that he gets tuition paid because of his good grades so far. He did not live at home his freshman year, now he is home and I am saving money by not having to pay room and board. Yet, I see him in so much of what you all are saying. He contends that he cannot work part time because of his school load, but has made no effort to see if there is any work on campus or anyplace he could work. In the summer he found a short term job, yet put no effort into finding work after that. Many of the suggestions here are so helpful. I need to make it uncomfortable for him to live here unless he contributes. He seems to have minimal desire to change or make anything of his life. Getting through school seems to be his validation for doing little else. I do not like having to deal with the anger, name calling, put downs against me when I ask him to do chores and contribute to the home. It's difficult. Both my own guilt and he can be surly and very mean. Looking for more ideas and suggestions. My first attempt will be to require chores for spending money. It will likely not go well. There will be a barrage of insults hurled at me. Yet, I need to make a stand for us both. I have a brother who is still living off of our parents at 50 years old. I do not want this to happen. I want him to make something of his life. ellabright
...See More
Issues with a 21 yr. old son
Q
Comments (4)
Help_seeker, I am so sorry. To me it seems like parenting adult kids is particularly difficult when substance abuse or mental illness is involved. When your son finishes job corps, then it sounds like he will truly be on his own and responsible for finding a job and earning his own living. He may still change his mind and his direction in life. If I were in your shoes, knowing drugs are involved, I would try to attend a local NarAnon family group or something like that. They can probably give you some great tips. I might be tempted to keep paying for the cell phone, so my son would have a way to contact me and I would have a way to contact him. But you may be right that it would be better to stop paying for the cell phone. I know you are broken hearted at the direction your son has taken in life, and I would be, too. But he has some things going on in his favor. He was caught with pot, not heroin. Future employers will be a lot more understanding about an arrest for pot possession than something like meth. Second, he's an intelligent young man. When he finally gets his act together, he's a smart guy and he still go back to school if he chooses. Many young people struggle just to pass basic community college courses. When your son decides to get serious about his education he will be a bit rusty but he has the intelligence to do well once he makes that choice. Last, he has caring parents - both parents - who love him. It sounds like all you can do is step back and let him fall, and probably the sooner the better. Do you think it's possible that your son has a mental health issue like depression or anxiety? I've been told that there are some mental health issues that start showing symptoms early in college, and that self-medicating with alcohol or drugs sometimes goes hand in hand with mental health issues. I know people with mental health issues who have gotten treatment that works for them and are doing great - they went from falling apart to living healthy, happy, responsible lives. Hang in there. It sounds like your son has been given a loving family foundation. He may see the light sooner than you think.
...See More
10 yr old cat potties on bed
Q
Comments (4)
I would say it is a sick cat -- maybe has worms or a blockage. In my experience it is not in a cat's nature to poop where it likes to hang out, and incontinence is a clear sign. She is so weak that you have to carry her? or she just doesn't want to go out? I've never noticed that heat caused my cats to lose weight, it causes them to shed! Having the 3rd lid visible at all times is also not normal, if it is so when the cat is awake. They will urinate when upset or annoyed or whatever. My very elderly cat started to do so on my bed where she had slept for a decade, after we had another cat and a dog move in, possibly because she had difficulty negotiating the stairs and other animals in the dark, or because she was just upset at the changes in her environment.
...See More
PRO
Anglophilia
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
You have bought a money pit. Be prepared.
User
7 years ago
My suggestion is start with things that affect the structure of the house, water infiltration is the biggie, rot and insect damage.Get a good book on repairing windows and frames and use it to save those irreplaceable windows. The golf ball test will tell you if there is normal settling or insufficient floor support. As for the yard the most important is to ensure that the yard drains away from the house. These areas need immediate attention. Then tackle electrical and plumbing, depending on your capabilities consider using professionals.

Live with the house before tackling the ascetics. You may find that will give you time to imagine better ways to tackle issues. Some pics would be great to see what you're dealing with.
lazy_gardens
7 years ago
Your BIG need would be to get a roofer that has worked on old houses to evaluate what you have for a roof. And fix it ...

The rotting windows - probably caulk fell out and was not replaces, or the slope of the sill shifted and was not fixed.
kjo_tx
6 years ago
One option for a journal / log book sort of thing is Owner Builder Book. They have construction journals from people who are working on their own projects without a contractor. My dad has kept several when working on our houses, and although they aren't the most aesthetically pleasing website, it may be a good fit if you are looking to write about your projects.

https://www.ownerbuilderbook.com/blogs/
rwiegand
6 years ago
The good news is that many of the bad things that might have happened already have. If the roof is tight my primary concern would be bugs. Termites in the sills, and anywhere else, powderpost beetles, and or carpenter ants.

I'd start in the basement and work up to the attic poking around with an icepick to look for soft wood, looking for any exit holes from powderpost beetles, unexplained piles of sawdust, mud tracks up any of the walls, or any of the other signs of bugs.

Sill replacement would be the most common need on a building like this, fortunately it is not as hard as it appears initially if the foundation is sound.
kamereone thanked rwiegand
kamereone
Original Author
6 years ago
Uploading pictures is such a pain, sorry for poor quality, just a quick sampling of what I'm dealing with.
view of the roof from the attic

north side of the house

south side; seems odd the windows are so proud without any roofline overhang

first floor, south end, old water damage

first floor, drooping ceiling

Thanks everyone for their feedback so far
ldstarr
6 years ago
Love your photos. Your primary concern is water infiltration, as others have said. That means check hard, and repair/replace the roof. Also, double and triple check the slope of the yard surrounding the home and make sure it drains away from the foundation. Then when those items are taken care of, you can start repairing window sills, sashes, door sills etc. If you want a book that touches on many different aspects of the old home evaluation and repair, consider "Renovating Old Houses" by George Nash. Our copy is very worn and proved quite useful at times when we redid our 1838 home.

Most of your photos show little of concern to me. DO NOT let some roofer convince you that you need a ridge vent. They'll either install it, and it will be useless or they'll cut into your ridge pole. Whatever ventilation the house has had for the past 300 years was/is working just fine. And DO NOT insulate.

The photos of the interior mostly just show plaster that has broken keys. That is quite repairable.

Finally, I'd say that the peeling paint is from one of several possible causes. It could be water infiltration. Pay extra attention to the siding to roof transition. Your next possible problem, is that some misguided person may have plugged up vents/cracks that allowed the interior air to flow up thru the house. Now the moisture created by living is migrating thru the walls. That could be the cause of the paint peeling. The last possible issue could simply be poor preparation prior to the painting. All areas must be scraped down to bare wood or a very firmly attached prior layer of paint. Then apply high quality primer and re-paint.

Good luck and check back here often. Many of us will enjoy following your progress.
Jason
6 years ago
last modified: 6 years ago
My experience is with the 1820 cape I have owned for 10 years. Some words of advice.

1. You mention the drystack foundation. Is it mortared? My house has the typical fieldstone foundation. When water started to intrude, I had a mason come in to repoint with new mortar. Then, as recommended, look at gutters, downspouts and grading away from the house. Problem solved to the point that when great rains flooded all of the neighbors' (new house) basements, mine was bone dry.

2. Stay away from new house contractors! The house has withstood time using a style of construction and old systems that are both tried and true and largely incompatible with everything an experienced new house contractor knows how to do (and will recommend to you). Old houses need to breathe. That said, some new ideas work well. Have someone take a look at your chimneys. Old houses can be drafty if you are in a cold area- but a new liner and a wood stove more than compensates. Crumbling chimneys can be addressed and flashing at the roof can be a source of water intrusion.

3. Look into a contract for pest control. They come out every year and scope out the situation and take care of issues as they arise. Mice were a problem for the prior owners, with cats, the mice are not a problem.

4. Good job on the windows! Keep the originals. If I had one piece of advice it would be Keep EVERYTHING. Someone will come along and wish you had.

5. Paint on the North side looks rough- but in a cold winter climate the North side is beaten up and also given the least amount of light to dry things out. Your house is white so temporary spot priming is an easy option.

It looks like you have a really amazing house. Love to see more photos.

Related Stories

REMODELING GUIDES The Hidden Problems in Old Houses

By Matt Clawson

Before snatching up an old home, get to know what you’re in for by understanding the potential horrors that lurk below the surface

REMODELING GUIDES Contractor's Tips: 10 Things Your Contractor Might Not Tell You

By Buckminster Green LLC

Climbing through your closets and fielding design issues galore, your contractor might stay mum. Here's what you're missing

SMALL HOMES Houzz Tour: A Tiny House Packed With Style

A couple in Northern California opts for a customized home on wheels with clever design and storage solutions

BATHROOM DESIGN Dreaming of a Spa Tub at Home? Read This Pro Advice First

By By Any Design Ltd.

Before you float away on visions of jets and bubbles and the steamiest water around, consider these very real spa tub issues

TINY HOUSES Houzz Tour: A Custom-Made Tiny House for Skiing and Hiking

By Mitchell Parker

Ethan Waldman quit his job, left his large house and spent $42,000 to build a 200-square-foot home that costs him $100 a month to live in

SMALL HOMES Can You Live a Full Life in 220 Square Feet?

Adjusting mind-sets along with furniture may be the key to happiness for tiny-home dwellers

MOST POPULAR How to Hide the TV, No Cabinet Required

By Toronto Interior Design Group

Minimize the impact of the big black screen with these tricks to make it blend with your decor

SMALL HOMES Houzz Tour: Rolling With Simplicity in a Tiny House on Wheels

By Mary Jo Bowling

Just 240 square feet, this California home encourages efficient living — but there’s still room for yoga

THE HARDWORKING HOME Smart Ways to Make the Most of a Compact Kitchen

Minimal square footage is no barrier to fulfilling your culinary dreams. These tips will help you squeeze the most out of your space

KITCHEN DESIGN Kitchen Counters: Stunning, Easy-Care Engineered Quartz

By Ivon Street Studio

There's a lot to like about this durable blend of quartz and resin for kitchen countertops, and the downsides are minimal

Sponsored

Dave Fox Design Build Remodelers

49 Reviews

Columbus Area's Luxury Design Build Firm | 17x Best of Houzz Winner!

More Discussions

Source for fluted glass?

7

Addition/floor plan help in a duplex

16

What bracing is required for screen porch posts with a knee wall

1

Counter overhang variation - acceptable?

7

Exterior Update to Tudor style house

2