Hello, Would like to know how many BTUs (for 1 wallmount system)would I need for two floors of 690 sqfeet (each floor). The Unit will be on the 2nd floor in the middle between 2 bedrooms and a washroom (over washroom door facing master bedroom). It will be a dual split system. ------------------------------------- Also would like to know which is a safe reliable cost efficient brand, example of wall mounted (split systems) air conditions I've heard of: Fujitsu (they give 10 years warranty parts and labour) Mitsubishi (6 yrs parts and labour however been making them longer) Daikin (6 yrs parts and labour) Igloo York Carrier Grey All about the same price... ----------------------------------- Finally, is it better to get a dual system (with heat pump), from my understanding they are almost the same price and the advantage is that it has a variable BTU which may save some $$. Since the heat pump will be at the higher level then it wont heat as much however it is coming at about the same price. Then again more electronics in a system more chances of malfunctioning sooner? Thank you, Stelios

I realize there's a lot of love/hate perspectives based on brand, but after seeing prices of the big boys (Mitsubishi, Daikin, etc) at least 2-4x the cost of the DIY systems that have continued to get easier and easier to install and maintain it's an increasingly hard proposition to avoid modern HVAC over concerns of a $15-20k installation overhead when a comparable DIY install can be had for $5k-8k. As an example... After seeing my neighbor drop his electric bill 30-40% with a partial DIY Senville minisplit who had nothing but great things to say about it over his first two years of use, I took up his offer to help with install on 28k dual-head Senville system after extensive phone and email-based conversations with their sales teams on proper size, location, and acessories. The "trick" to ensuring your system's covered by most manufacturers' warranties (in Senville's case their 10 year warranty) is splitting out the "Bob Villa busy work" vs the professional stuff that could void a warranty or burn your house down. For example, all the interior work of drilling applicable wall holes, mounting interior head units (easier than a TV), filling those holes with foam, and installing the line set covers back to the compressor can easily be handled by anyone with even modest DIY XP. Just make sure you've measured out the total line set length, aren't crimping those metal lines, and (if you aren't comfortable with any of that) just leave any/all exterior lineset and/or cover work to the pros to run back to the compressor and cover up. Lineset covers are effectively glorified gutters: easy to install, not as easy to ensure they're not creating sharp angles or crimps in the lineset. Pro Stuff: checking system pressure, running new 220v/40amp electrical service with applicable cutoff(s), and ensuring that (even on systems that come pre-charged) that pressure is correct and the system starts, works to spec, and you have that warranty form filled out and signed by a professional that knows what they're doing. All in all I paid: $5,150: $2600 complete mini-split system w/covers (dual-head, 28k Senville SENA-30hf-d) $1200: electrician running new 220v/40a service (panel to compressor) $500: plumber connecting/testing line set pressures/operation $850: handyman mounting exterior compressor + buying/installing line set covers after factory covers were found not have necessary right angles) In just first winter heating costs dropped by 50% (prior pellet stove + electric baseboard so worst case scenario) and early spring/summer air conditioning has been even more impressive. The system's almost completely inaudible, the 2x10 house construction's transmitted zero reverberation through the walls (a common concerns for those wall-mounting their exterior compressor), and Senville's mobile app (which also works with the Midea app since apparently Senville's just a rebrand of Midea systems) allows fully remote, Alexa-compatible, and multiday schedules that are easily configured. I know all the existing professionals lament the fact that these DIY/quasi-DIY systems can disappear overnight and often won't touch them due to concern over future parts availability, but when costs compare at $5k vs $10-20k for even a modestly sized system it really calls into question how many inefficiently heated/cooled homes are left in the cold (no pun intended) over fear of extensive capital costs when systems like these can be the best of both worlds: an opportunity to work with local pros to understand how modern heat pump technology actually works, take a bit of the busy work off their plates and still make a living ensuring the more advanced work is not an unforced error on the part of the homeowner willing to exercise a bit of elbow grease to cut costs by 50-75% off traditional installations. Hope this helps.

PROBLEMS COMPRESSOR: https://www.ductless-mini-split-air-conditioner.org/ 1. Compressor Is Constantly Leaking If you shut off the air compressor on full charge, yet the gauge drops while the compressor is deactivated, you definitely have an air leak. The compressor might even automatically restart just to counter the situation. What you need to do in this situation is pinpoint the source of the leak. Apply soap to the connections: With the compressor unplugged, cover the connections with liquid soap, including all the couplers and the pressure switch. If bubbles form at any point, that is where the leak is located. Tighten up the coupler, if possible, where the bubbling occurs. Inspect the tank check valve: Air leaks are sometimes caused by tank check valves that fail to close completely. If the pressure gauge continues to drop when the tank is off, access the tank valve and inspect its condition. The valve might need to be cleaned or replaced. If the air leaks occur only when a hose is plugged into the compressor, disconnect the hose. If the pressure gauge stops dropping, the hose is the source of your leak. 2. Air Leaks From the Oil Fill Tune If your compressor is losing pressure through the oil fill tube, check the piston seals. In most such cases, the piston seals will be badly worn and in need of immediate replacement. This is a problem that you should remedy immediately, as worn pistons can cause metal-on-metal friction that could swiftly lead to internal corrosion. 3. Air Leaks From the Hood Air leaks from under the hood are sometimes encountered on smaller air compressors. To diagnose the problem, remove the hood, run the compressor for a few minutes, then shut it off and unplug the compressor. Feel around the motor parts for any sort of air draft. Chances are, the leak will originate from the tank valve, in which case you will need to remove and clean or possibly replace the valve.

Here is some info on minisplits in general. (not speaking to any particular brand) Generally, Minisplit systems work by having the power for the outdoor and indoor unit run off the outdoor unit. So the lineset length is limited to usually 25 ft max. This may be less if there is a large change in vertical between the 2 parts. Better units are heatpumps with added electric heat strips if needed for the climate. Minisplits get very good SEER ratings, from 18 to 20+ Better systems have good low ambient abilities. An EPA certified technician is required by law to work with open refrigerant lines. These are not self-install units. There is condensate that needs to be pumped to a drain location, and these systems use a condensate pump to do so. Some systems use unit mounted Thermastats, and others use standard 24 volt thermastats that can link to whole house controls if needed.