could be a couple thousand, could be 15k. no way to tell.

call a few local HVAC companies and have them come out, RUN A MANUAL J, and give you an estimate.

just for reference, my 3.5ton XL14i heat pump was around 8k to replace everything except the ducts. new wiring, new tstats, new linesets, new indoor and outdoor units. i had quotes on other brands, ranging from a low of 4500 to a high of 11k, basically all for the same thing except the SEER rating was higher on teh 11k unit.

Thanks for the info on the new heat pump.
Can not find prices on just the A/C units or compressors. I think the manufacturers are doing this intentionally to make it harder for the consumers to do comparison easily.

Sundial8,

Check out this web page to see if it has a Trane replacement compressor for your system: http://americanhvacparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=c2-traner.

I got a quote of $800 to replace a 1986 12 SEER Rheem compressor with an identical new unit. A 10% "senior" discount would have come off of that. Refrigerant would have been recovered and reused. This was from the local Rheem dealer.

don b 1
Where are you located, I am in Wilmington, MA. I got a quote of $1,250. Thanks.

Thanks jdm 56 for the link.
That would put the cost of the compressor & freight = $812

I did talk to one company and the person said it would take 4 hours to install and clean/flush out the line.

sundial, I'm on the gulf coast near Pensacola FL.

PROBLEMS COMPRESSOR:

https://www.ductless-mini-split-air-conditioner.org/

1. Compressor Is Constantly Leaking

If you shut off the air compressor on full charge, yet the gauge drops while the compressor is deactivated, you definitely have an air leak. The compressor might even automatically restart just to counter the situation. What you need to do in this situation is pinpoint the source of the leak.

Apply soap to the connections: With the compressor unplugged, cover the connections with liquid soap, including all the couplers and the pressure switch. If bubbles form at any point, that is where the leak is located. Tighten up the coupler, if possible, where the bubbling occurs.

Inspect the tank check valve: Air leaks are sometimes caused by tank check valves that fail to close completely. If the pressure gauge continues to drop when the tank is off, access the tank valve and inspect its condition. The valve might need to be cleaned or replaced.

If the air leaks occur only when a hose is plugged into the compressor, disconnect the hose. If the pressure gauge stops dropping, the hose is the source of your leak.

2. Air Leaks From the Oil Fill Tune

If your compressor is losing pressure through the oil fill tube, check the piston seals. In most such cases, the piston seals will be badly worn and in need of immediate replacement. This is a problem that you should remedy immediately, as worn pistons can cause metal-on-metal friction that could swiftly lead to internal corrosion.

3. Air Leaks From the Hood

Air leaks from under the hood are sometimes encountered on smaller air compressors. To diagnose the problem, remove the hood, run the compressor for a few minutes, then shut it off and unplug the compressor. Feel around the motor parts for any sort of air draft. Chances are, the leak will originate from the tank valve, in which case you will need to remove and clean or possibly replace the valve.

13 year old post, Mr mini-split obsession.