" installed less than three months ago through a very reputable Trane factory authorized contractor" "A few weeks ago the pressure transducer is replaced. However a similar problem still exist " It seems whenever HVAC contractors start replacing sensors on new equipment there is a high probability it is not the sensor that is the problem. The sensors may be tripping because there is an installation problem. If this guy is a Trane factory authorized dealer then he should be bringing technical experts from the distributor or the Trane factory to trouble shoot the problem. I could be off base here, but your contractor may not want to let a Trane representative see his installation. This may be the reason why it is taking so long get a response from Trane. My suggestion would be to tell your Trane dealer you want you new equipment fixed immediately and if he doesn't know how to do it he needs to bring in a Trane expert. Let us know how this plays out. I would be interested to know how this was resolved.

If you haven't changed or touched the thermostats, then the increased cycling is due to an effective oversizing of the furnace as was pointed out. It will get worse as the outside temperature drops. You could reduce this by increasing the insulation to the heated area of the house and the following thermostat adjustments: Increase the "swing" temperature to the maximum you can tolerate, say 2 or 3 degrees,or if your themostat has a setting for cycles that you can adjust downward. In either case, it boils down to the inverse relationship - decreasing cycling increases the "swing" or diffeential temperature and vice versa. And, your sealing the basement should help the cycling problem slightly; the more you insulate, the longer it takes for the temperature to drop and, accordingly, there is a reduction in cycling rate. But your main focus should be on the heated areas. If the problem is not mitigated, by these schemes, then you may considerunderfiring the furnace to reduce the heat output, but there may be inefficiencies associated with this. You would need a pro to advise you.

It's probably hormonal fluctuations, but only a doctor can really say for sure. There are blood tests you could get to rule out other things, so a visit to a friendly female OBGYN sounds like a good idea. Take a list of questions and don't let her leave the room until you've gotten them all answered. Metabolism slows down every year and I know I have to eat less just to stay the same weight, and sometimes I still gain.

I hadn't give thought that you might think I was infering dishonest about cleanleness until A Air commented on taking people at their word. Truth is I've lost count of how many times contractors and employees told me a coil was clean when it wasn't. Their warn't lying,they simply didn't see dirt until I showed them how to make certain. I did the same until wiser men showed me different. I still haven't mastered how to perdict what third parties ( mfgr,dealer and distributor in this case) will do. Hopfully you don't need to go that far so let's do what we can on our own before finding out. I just believe this is well worth persuing since it cost's nothing and will do no harm. I can't say the same about tapping into sealed systems. Manys a perfectly charged system has been contaminated,caused to begin leaking or worse when needlessly opened up. As a rule of thumb,as compressors get smaller, sensitivity increases across the board and skill to deal with it become's increasingly neccessary. If not useful on this unit,I have some tips for confined coils. Adapt as the need arises. I carried mirrors including one similar to those dentists and hygeniests use. It's sometimes amazing to see what's around corners. Much quicker than dissassembly only to find everything ok. A garden sprayer will handle most coil wash jobs but in addition I carried pressurized containers with different coil washes inside. I often prefer pushing dirt back out in direction it came from. A 1/8" soft copper pipe with spray head can be snaked into back side of coil and using high pressure liquid or plain air ( depending on whether pressure tank is upright or inverted) can drive dirt out to side I can see. Eventhough you can't see wand and spray head,the spray can be directed by watching dirt come out side which is visiable. I figure this can save tech time and do better work when dealing with M-splits. If a wet vac hose with 90* floor tool can be manipulated to catch dirt and liquid as it's expelled,you can do 1st class on central system coils. Bigger spray head,more water and more pressure. I would use no rinse evap coil cleaner on this ms but it usually only come's in gallons. I have no objection to diswashing or laundry detergent if that's all one has. If you have a digital thermometer that reacts within secounds of temp change, and an amp meter,do this. Watch and record running temp and amps. Do amps increase above rated run amps before compressor cut's off, do temps progressivly change as amps change and other readings. Since I've lead us this deep,I should at least say why I think this could be air flow related. A freeze up caused by low refrigerant can be expected to start iceing at point where it enter's coil then progress until air flow begin's to drop then continue progressivly covering coil in turn progressivly restricting air flow. That's a clean coil with inadiquate refrigerant. A properly charged coil drop's temp rather even across whole coil. A properly (and to a degree, inadiquate) charged coil with inadiquate air flow from dirt restriction or too low fan can be expected to frost then shortly ice across intire coil surface. Anywho,this will be one less thing tech need's to do if one must be called. Your amp-temp chart might also prove helpful.