I don't think it's necessary to transplant that. How many gallons is the pot? If that is a cherry variety, you'll need better support though. It could use better support now, actually.

Also, if you don't already know at this point, tomatoes only need to be started about 6-8 weeks before last frost. 5 weeks was even enough in my personal experience.

The general rule of thumb is 10 gal or more for container size when growing tomatoes. I think you're fine with what you have there. Do you know the variety of tomato that is?

You could use stakes, or put a larger cage over the plant. Using another cage might be difficult at this time. You have to be very careful with staking though. Since the plant is that big already, you don't want to damage the root system, so don't stake it anywhere near the main stem. Usually you want to put stakes in around transplant time, that way you can avoid root damage.

Pot looks kinda small to me, but you'll get growth and productivity that scales with the pot size. That is, don't expect the kind of growth and productivity you'd have if it were in the ground. Cherries in the ground will have at least 8-foot vines. That pot won't support the nutritional needs of 8-foot vines. But you'll get what you get. That is, re survival, the plant will do fine. Re growth and productivity, the plant won't do what it would do in the ground.

The plant is working on fruit, so I suspect transplantation at this point, to get it to work on roots, won't be that useful.

Does the pot have fairly large holes on the bottom? Any chance you could set it directly on some nice soil and let the plant's roots go through the bottom of the pot and into the soil below for additional nutrition and room?

While the specific variety name would be a big help to know I agree that it is way too late to transplant that one into the ground without so much stress you'd lose the fruit and new growth and possibly the plant itself.

I also agree that the pot is far to small for any kind of normal growth or production (think 1/2 whiskey barrel size). So at this point you are pretty much stuck with what you get from that plant before it dies. Hopefully your other transplants are much, much smaller.

As for support I would carefully work another of those so-called tomato cages like that one (they don't really work for most tomato plants so don't plan to use that kind in the garden) into the top of the existing one, wire the two cages together, then sit the whole thing next to the deck rail and tie the cage off to the railing.

Dave

Some people have said to use this as a "parent plant". How exactly does one do that? What parts do I plant?

@Barrie, nailed it. That's my technique as well. I let it dry out a bit too. I wouldn't hit it with that much fertilizer but I may be just a worrie wort

@David probably referring to rooting cuttings from it and planting those. Tomatoes root relatively quick.

I think removing the suckers and planting them in moist soil or sitting in a jar of water until they form roots. Then plant them in the garden. I see at least one sucker way up near the top of the plant.

There are a million videos on the internet showing how to do this. Here is just one. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpwbh8rIPHU

David, how big was that tomato before you moved it outdoors? Or did you raise it in a heated greenhouse or something? I could be way off on this but I would have thought that in zone 6 you would still be at risk for frost....... no?

Harry

Treat this as a learning experiment. You have been told both yes and no to transplanting it now, both sides based on those individuals' personal experiences with doing it or not doing it. So now decide which would work best for you - transplanted into the bed or left as is in the pot. Then do it. That way you learn for yourself if your choice works for you or doesn't and that will be good future info to have.

If you decide you want to learn how to take cuttings off a mother plant and root those cuttings then there is plenty of information on how to do it over on the Growing Tomatoes forum here.

Dave

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/tomato

@Dave, time to man up and put the cards on the table. Go for it, No Guts No Glory, OOORAY!!!

No reason why you can't do both. Plant out the beast AND get some cuttings from it to plant nearby. It'll be interesting to compare the results of the two.

Lol, sure thing. Now get'er done and post some pics of your work. Biggest thing here when you do the procedure is to do it genitally, nice and easy. keep you mind and body in the context of "smooth and calm"

"No Guts No Glory, OOORAY!!!" ... and maybe no tomatoes.

Or maybe a ton of them.

No Risk No Reward.

Biggest thing here when you do the procedure is to do it genitally.

???? Sounds painful lol!!!!!!!!!

I got to say it, "No Pain, No Gain"

hahaha...tomato circumcision!!!!

omg....... you guys are ridiculous......

Document it and post pics!

Don't forget to play taps!! And a 21 squirt gun salute to water it in ;-)

For plants with half that size pot 3-4 gallon) I just open my hand so a few fingers straddle the stem on the soil surface and just invert the pot and pop the root ball out resting on my hand with the plant upside down. I'm very confident that this plant will not just survive but it will grow very well in the soil providing you can protect it from any cooler weather.

Steve, I have been using the double strength Miracle Grow for many years. I purchase it in the large 15 lb. boxes and add 1 1/4 lb to 40 gallons water every time I plant any vegetables with my water-wheel planter. Transplants always need that boost to begin the transition to cooler soil. I guess I should state that their recommended level is one tablespoon per gallon water so just use 2. Don't go overboard.

As far away as possible. Spacing on tomato plants all depends on how you plan to support them and how much pruning you will be doing. Common recommendation is 3 square foot per plant. Some use 2.5 sq. feet and many use 4 sq feet. If you prune them to a single stem you can use 18" but that is only if it is kept to a single stem.

Honestly if you'd just go over to the Growing Tomatoes forum here and do a bit of reading you'd quickly find the answers to all these basic questions.

Tomato plant spacing discussions

Dave