I think the only concern I might have is the different maturing times of the different junipers. If one type were to outgrow the others, might it look odd. Too, the spread of one type, invading the space of the other would have to ensure the space is adequate. I suppose their care is pretty well the same. Thirty-five feet to the fence...and then the junipers taking up space ...will their mature size interfere with how you might use the space left. Just a quick note:....pay no attention if it doesn't apply. Do you have perchance any mountain ash, hawthorn, crabapple nearby to you or your neighbor? The reason I ask is that your choice of juniper is a host for a fungus disease that attacks junipers. Cedar Apple Rust.... if you have any of the plants mentioned, or your neighbor..or have one close by... I suggest you read about this particular fungus before making up your mind to buy juniper. It need not change your mind about such purchase....just be aware of it.

what i am saying.. is that investing thousands of dollars in fighting a pest that is on the march.. MIGHT NOT BE WISE.. UNLESS MONEY IS NO OBJECT... i got a private email with pix.. i dont know if they come from this post ... ONE THING THAT YOU HAVE TO DEFINE.. IS IF it is A RUST.. OR A RUST COLORED PROBLEM.. IS it THE FIRST PROBLEM .... OR A SECONDARY PROBLEM ... carp on the caps.. sorry ... what caused the damage .. is imperative to know... as compared to what came after .. to a damaged leaf .. the prime example would be a hail storm ... damaging all he leaves... and then weeks or months later.. disease and pestilence moving into the previously damaged leaf ... as such.. the secondary problem is transitory .. and treating it.. is not necessary .... and there would be nothing to do about the hail.. in this example ... the pix i saw ... just had small brown spots all over them... and were out of focus ... and not closeup ... you really need a local professional opinion .. ken

Thank you Bill! So, I would assume then, that I would be laying down a grain application starting around March (before the grass starts to really grow) and then approximately each month (maybe skipping a month in the heat of summer) until October or early November (if we get snow, it doesn't usually happen until December, and generally we'd only have snow on the ground for Dec, maybe Jan and maybe some of Feb, when the early flowering cherry trees start to bloom). Is there any harm in increasing the alfalfa to more than 20lb per 1000sqft? For example, if I put down ~22lb per 750sqft, to make just 2 applications of alfalfa per year. Or is that just a waste because the lawn won't need or use the extra amount? I'll keep the soybean at 14lbs per 1000 max, in order to mitigate the smell issue (: Thanks again. I really appreciate your help.

Not sure what to say but all canning instructions, like most recipes, are proportional to ALL the ingredients used. They are either in weights or in measurements of cups, quarts, etc. So yeah the problem is not weighing the apples or measuring them in some way that is relative to the rest of the ingredients. If you don't weigh or measure all ingredients then all the rest is just guess work, just making it up as you go along, and that can be very risky in canning. Whether you use weight or volume is usually determined by the recipe used. So while guess work plays no role in canning, clearly the risk is less when working with acidic foods than with low acid foods. With apples the main concern would be bacteria counts, molds and yeasts rather than botulism, salmonella, etc. and how much risk you are comfortable with taking. Personally I am not tolerant of much risk in my canning efforts since, for the most part, it is unnecessary. But each of us has to determine our own level of comfort. As to when you measure, that too depends on the instructions you are using. Usually it is up front, first thing as it is the first ingredient on the list. x lbs. or x cups of apples for x tbls. or cups of the other ingredients. Where does it say how much acid to add for windfalls, is there a chart or something? No chart because the use of windfalls is not recommended in canning. Given the higher bacterial and mold counts, only cooking for fresh use or freezing is recommended. But the guidelines also recognize that some will use them and that is why they added the acidification guidelines additions I listed above back in the 2006 revisions. They are treated like tomatoes - borderline low-acid. "Add two tablespoons of bottled lemon juice or 1/2 teaspoon of citric acid per quart of tomatoes. For pints, use one tablespoon bottled lemon juice or 1/4 teaspoon citric acid. Acid can be added directly to the jars before filling with product. Add sugar to offset acid taste, if desired. Four tablespoons of a 5 percent acidity vinegar per quart may be used instead of lemon juice or citric acid. However, vinegar may cause undesirable flavor changes." NCHFP Acidifcation Directions http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_03/tomato_intro.html#acidification Hope this helps clarify it for you. Dave