In MI you might be able to seed now and get away with it. The farther north you are the better chance you have of summer survival. The problem with spring seeding is the summer heat killing the tender new grass. If your temps rarely get into the high 80s, I would go for it. If you do it and end up with crabgrass by July, chalk it up to experience and get ready to do it right in the fall. Fall is the best time of year to seed the bare spots.

Your problem is that fescue and rye grass, when those become thin they don't come back and fill in. That means you need to evaluate your lawn every August to see if you need more seed in spots. Or, next fall, you could seed in some Kentucky bluegrass which does spread to fill in the thin spots.

I would not go to all the work you are planning. I would spray Round Up CAREFULLY on the areas where you plan to renovate, a week later rake up the dead stuff, seed into the lightly raked soil, walk on the new seed to press it down into the soil, and start daily watering to germinate the grass seed. Oh, and use a perennial rye for this. Rye germinates the fastest of all the turf grasses. Rye germinates in a week. Fescue takes 2 weeks and KBG takes 3. If you want to mix them all together, do that in the fall.

Stay away from weed n feed products. If you need a fertilizer, use fertilizer (on Memorial Day). If you need a herbicide, spot spray with a herbicide (in April). Note the timing difference for the different products. If you use a weed n feed you get the timing off on either the fertilizer or the herbicide. There are other issues that make weed n feed products harder to use, especially for a beginner, so just stay away and learn to do it right.

Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

Mowing: Mulch mow weekly at your mower's highest setting. Tall grass grows deeper roots that can take advantage of the deep watering above.

Fertilizer: First fertilizer normally goes down on Memorial Day long after the spring flush of new growth. There are reasons for not doing it sooner. Second app goes down on Labor Day. Last application goes down more toward Thanksgiving after the grass has stopped growing but before it goes completely dormant. This is the winterizer application that will push your lawn to come in faster next spring.