I'm trying to figure this out myself. I did as you did, though with a slightly different blend. I've never noticed Poa Annua before in my lawn, ever, and so I have always seen these discussions of Poa Annua as being a somewhat exotic problem. So, my first thought when I first identified it this spring was to wonder whether my "sod quality" seeds were contaminated. I mean, I can't believe how much of this stuff showed up! But on reflection I came to believe that the weed seeds (and, presumably, even the actual weed plants that I just never noticed in the cacophony of all of my other weeds) were probably there in my yard all the time, but since my previous yard was such a disaster I never focused on them. Which is a shame, given how the more flamboyant weeds seem so much more susceptible to selective herbicides. Having read up a little, my plan is aggressive pre-emergent applications this year (already underway), and the glove approach next year for whatever manages to emerge through my (hopefully) thick turf by then. I really don't know if this is the right way to approach it, since I have never fought it before. Sorry, to get back to your question, RU is taken in by the leaves, and then "translocated" (delivered) to the root, and then the plant is cooked. If you can manage to apply this stuff only to the leaves of the Poa without touching the surrounding grass, that grass should be fine. But if you applied RU in a way that it sprayed or was spread onto your KBG, or if your particular blend of RU (there are a number of them!) included a chemical that remains active in the soil for any length of time, if the KBG was active at the time of application, it is very likely that it is history. As far as I know, regarding turfgrasses, only an experimental species of bentgrass may be Roundup resistant. KBG, no. Still it would help to know what RU product, specifically, you applied. You could name the product exactly, or list the active ingredients. If the only active ingredient was glyphosate, that is one thing. If there were other active ingredients (dicambra? fluazifop? others?) that may be another. Please post anything you learn about this! I'm sure there are others in the same boat... Best, Paul

To answer "Have you fertilized yet this spring?" question. I did not explain this in my original post; but I was trying to go the organic route. So since last fall I have been using Alfalfa, SBM and applying compost tea etc. This season I have applied two application of CGM at 10 lb/1k. First one when forsythia just started to bloom and second one after 9-10 days when forsythia was in full bloom. Based on what I have read, CGM does work as a fertilizer, it just takes 3 weeks to go into effect. The results also depend on how good soil biology you have got. Since I just started following organic practices last year, its very much possible I don't have good balance in the soil yet. I guess after going through all this, I have kind of concluded that for a new lawn, at least for first year you should take help of chemicals and once you get thick turf established then you gradually move into organics. I think "gradually" is the key. If you have been following organic practices since long time, then its different story. I hope this is not going start some big debate.. Having said that based on Auteck's suggestion I am going to give it a quick dose of nitrogen. I am hoping that boost will give some more strength to grass to help win the battle with weeds. Bestlawn, yes I do want to overseed this fall. In fact I have enough leftover from last year to do this overseeding. While googling, on Dowagro website I read 'one application of Dimension will give 120 days of control'. On another website someone had posted a label from a bag and it said you can do overseeding after 8 weeks. So It seems ok to put Dimension. Worst case I will have to do overseeding in Sept instead of Aug. I will have to ask Lesco guy when I go to buy it. Anyone has a bag who can answer this here? I will keep those pic at Picasa. No problem. Thanks.

Ok, so I got my results of the soil test back from UMass. Here are the results: -------------------------------------- Linestone and fertilizer recommendations for established turfgrass Apply 50 lb of calcitic limestone/1000 sq ft. Lime may be applied at any time, but mid-autumn or early spring is best Recommendation: 3 lb/1000 sq ft P205, and 4 lb/sq ft K20. To provide the above recommendations you may follow the directions below, or you may devise your own fertilizer program using the recommended amounts of phosphorus (P205) and potassium (K20) along with one pound of Nitrogen per 1000 sq feet. It may necessary to raise nutrient levels over several applications. Apply a 20-3-12 fertilizer @ 5 lbs/1000 sq ft in late April, late June, and very late August. If more convenient you may substitute the late April recommendation with the same application made 1 to 2 weeks after your last fall mowing. Follow these recommendations for two years. Retest the following year. Consult the interpretation sheet enclosed or obtain one of the turf guides referenced on the backside of the interpretation sheet. Micronutrient(ppm) Boron: 0.1 Manganese 1.3 Zinc 0.5 Copper 0.3 Iron 31.0 Sulfur 15.0 Soil Ph 6.1 Nitrogen: No3-N = 0 ppm BUffer pH: 6.7 Organic Matter 3.1% (desirable range 4 - 10%) nutrient levels (ppm) Phosphorus: 1 Potassium 45 Calcium 219 Magnesium 83 Cation exch Cap 4.0 meq/100g Percent base saturation K = 2.4, Mg = 13.9, Ca = 22.5 Micronutrient levels : all normal Extractable aluminum 128 ppm (soil range: 10 - 250 ppm) THe lead level in this soil is low. --------------------------- If I want to use organic fertilizer, do you have any recommendations for brands? Since I have missed the recommended late april application, can I apply one now, and still apply another in late June? If I apply the suggested lime amount, how will that affect the pH level? I am thinking of overseeding with kentucky bluegrass in the fall. Also i noticed in their interpretation sheet they mention that a Cation exch capacity of 10 to 15 is typical. and values below 6 may indicate the soil will have trouble supporting good turf growth unless special management techniques are employed. Should I be concerned? how can I increase this value?

diclemeg, In the past I have treated moderate areas of POA that kept coming back. 20-50 sq/ft areas, and some smaller. These areas are a bit shady and damp, very good POA enviroment. I hit the POA with round up. Waited for the death. Then heavily aerated the spots, or vigorously raked them to loosen the first inch or 2 of soil. Seeded with elite KBG, raked in seeds. Well, in weeks these areas were mostly KBG. But by next spring there were more POA spots in different places. I was able to grow mostly KBG in the areas that I killed off the POA. The following year, more POA showed up, but not because of my actions, but the more due to the shady damp area of my front lawn I was trying to grow KBG. I gave up treating this area until I get rid of the trees that shade it. What's my point? I can't imagine your entire lawn shady and damp like my front corner where I keep getting loads of POA no matter what. You may have just been unlucky in your first attempt at seeding...or maybe it was the heavy dosage of the wrong fertilizer that stunted your KBG growth that allowed the POA to dominate. What can you do? Get some RU now, and carefully spray the POA. Hopefully it will kill it, it is pretty late to try, but worth a shot. Next...wait. Wait until the ground is frozen solid. Then spread some KBG seed on the bare spots, dormant seed. Then wait, do nothing. Enjoy the winter and forget about the grass. Wait until at least the middle of May before doing anything. Hopefully the seeds will have sprouted. Oh, there will be some POA, but there will be some KBG there too. This will improve your situation, it won't fix it, but it will help and really is all you can do now at this time of the year. It is better than waiting for next spring to take action.