Help choosing climbers for the front of the house
bryony88_zone10a_england
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Help choosing a climber?
Comments (5)I'll have to get a current photo of the tree, need to anyway. The tree is as tall if not taller than our 2 story home, but I'm not kidding about upper branches being all that remains. I've been watching the area on sunny days, and it looks like there will be several hours of sun there, the tree is not shading it like it used to. The tree may actually have to be cut all the way down someday when we have the money or the chain saw to do it. It's a pine tree (not certain of the variety), and without the branches it used to have it's really an eyesore as it is. The tree is still alive, and I have read about roses near trees competing, and I'm starting to lean toward trying to grow a clematis there instead. even though my track record with clematis is pretty shabby. I did move a knock out rose to the area, it was crowded and needed moved anyway. I have to relandscape the whole corner now! I will try to get a photo soon, maybe that will help....See MoreWhich tree to choose in front of house
Comments (7)If shade is required you will need a big tree, tornado or no tornado. Resistant elm is a very good choice, male gingko is another, as are the lindens. Personally I love the catalpa trees but they are messy and may get infested with the catalpa worms that some fishermen love. Still the hubby or you will have to clean up leaves from any of those listed, and many also seed out both of which will get into gutters and downspouts. For something different perhaps the bald cypress. My choice is not listed here however, Shademaster Honey Locust, grows quickly, gets big, seedless, thornless, with leaves that fragment into tiny segments that run through the lawnmower into nothingness. The Honey locusts in general have deep rather than shallow roots, and provide dappled shade that allows grass to grow right up to the trunk. Wild types have massive and dangerous thorns and large messy seed pods that drop in autumn, but those have been bred out of a number of ornamental cultivars such as Shademaster. Sunburst Honey Locust, also seedless and thornless is one of the prettiest trees around as it comes into leaf, but is smaller topping out at around 40 feet. Imperial is another thornless variety in a bigger size but may produce seed pods, which drop in the autumn and can be a mess. Furthermore you have to pick them up because not only may they germinate, the seedlings are very apt to have quite a crop of thorns, reverting as it were. Better Shademaster than Imperial for size, for appearance best is the smaller Sunburst....See MoreWould love any advice on choosing a yellow or light colored climber.
Comments (7)Thank you everyone for your replies! Marlorena, both of those varieties are gorgeous and I haven't really heard of either, I will have to look them up, I Iove the looks of both of those photos! After just googling "climbing Lady Hillingdon" and looking at the photos and reading through peoples' overall experience with her, I found myself swooning over this rose, and remembering why I decided to order it in the first place. Olga's photos were certainly a part of that, her specimen is just the epitome of what a romantic garden rose should look like, just absolutely stunning! So now I just HAVE to give her a go. If she doesn't work out for me, then I will probably use either Reve d'Or or Teasing Georgia in that spot. Reve is classically gorgeous & sounds healthy and easy to train, but I do love the huge, lush blooms of TG , even though she is more of a struggle to work with, she seems very vigorous. I was thinking of using Reve in a spot along a (future) fence that is on a sidewalk (soon to be built by the city) that will have pretty heavy pedestrian traffic, so the thornlessness sounds like it might be helpful there. I am still worried about how Cl Lady Hillingdon will fare with Tennessee's notorious late season cold snaps, but hopefully I will be skilled enough in protecting her roots/canes for her to be able to get established. She is coming from Roses Unlimited, and all I ever hear is that their plants are some of the largest 1 gal. roses purchasable from the main few internet nurseries. We are coincidentally supposed to have a record setting low temperature tonight of -7, which seems like a game changer, as I thought I was zone 7a, but maybe I'm more like a 6b? It is a little confusing for me to figure out my little "micro climate" in particular because I live so close to the city, I feel like it is always a few degrees warmer here than it is, say at my dad's house just a couple of miles north of here & more in the country. I really should get an outdoor thermometer for my front porch, since that is where all my young potted roses are residing this winter, then I could compare the forecasted temperatures with my own and see what I come up with. Thanks again all! I'll post some photos later in the spring/summer! Jessica...See MoreNeed help choosing a good climber partial shade tollerant for zone 5
Comments (10)May I take the time to explain that the roots do not need sun. It is the leaves that need the sun light for photosynthesis. Our zone is very challenging to even find a cane hardy climbers. That said they would need 6 hours of sun to bloom well and be a robust grower. They would also need support for you to tie them to as roses do not naturally climb. If the arborvitae is east then this is a northern exposure correct. A clematis will mature much quicker than a climbing rose. Roses tend to take a good three years of building root mass before they show what they can do. Here is a photo of Dortman at Cleveland Botanical Garden posted by Karenforroses. At the top of the page you can search previous posts on here. Just type in climbing roses for zone 5. or Hardy climbing roses zone 5. Each time you change the words around you might get some different post. Lots of good ideas in those older posts....See Morefduk_gw UK zone 3 (US zone 8)
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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9