Dominican Republic- How do I fix this???
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7 years ago
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danielj_2009
7 years agolazy_gardens
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Clay soil - how do I fix it? Or do I have to?
Comments (63)In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com....See Morehow do I "fix" my Rhispalis Elipticca? (I thnk)
Comments (6)So I shouldn't prune or trim it for now? Just get it in new soil? worry about triming it in Spring? Maybe? Just making sure I understand. If you have the time tools and material available to re pot in a new soil why wait ? The old soil isn't doing your plant any favors it's probably getting more hydrophobic and compacting both would allow watering a harder task to handle when your plant is in an ideal growing and in need of watering. Some of us will re-pot plants in off times and in less than ideal growing conditions as an act of reassurance for our plants to have over all better growing health. I cant see the roots but if they where looking good in size and health chances are greater that I would split it up into two or three sized pots. Splitting up a plant while re-potting and pruning are different it's not my intentions to confuse you or other readers. If me I wouldn't prune right now Spring pruning is possible but for you to decide when spring gets here. You could prune it if you felt it needed pruning but chances are you might not have to prune it. Consider if you do prune in spring which is or isn't to soon wouldn't cause any major harm....See MoreHow do I fix my lawn
Comments (7)Crabgrass is a warm season annual grass. It will sprout around April. You can use a pre-emerge herbacide on your lawn BEFORE it sprouts. Ferti-loam makes a weed and feed for crabgrass. Make sure you mow any crabgrass before it can put out seeds for next years. Not knowing where you live, I can't make any grass recommendations. In Arkansas/Missouri we can grow either cool season or warm season grasses. In Arkansas warm season ones work better. Choices include bermudagrass, zoysia, centipede, and st. augustine (not reliably winter hardy north of Central Arkansas). Bermuda is easiest grass to establish if you have good sun. Zoysia can take some shade, and Centipede and St. Augustine can take more shade. No grass will grow well in deep shade. Cool grasses include turf type tall fescues, ryegrass, and bluegrass. Some people in north Arkansas/Missouri have some success with fescue, but it must be well watered during the summer to stay green, and usually re-seeded every fall. Ryegrass is an annual grass that will die out when summer gets hot. I don't know much about bluegrass as it doesn't do well in Arkansas. Bermuda can be sodded anytime, or seeded in May and will establish if you keep the water on your lawn. Ryegrass, bluegrass, fescue are sown in October. Zoysia, St. Augustine, and Centipede are usually laid as sod. If you have dense shade, I recommend ground covers instead of grass....See MoreHow do I fix a off centered window and ceiling peak?
Comments (22)I agree that curtains are making the situation worse. They look pretty bad hung as they are, too low and too wide. Even if you raise them above the window, which would be better, but even then, they highlight the fact that the rod is not centered on the arch. I'd use just a shade the same color as wall (once it's painted the ceiling color). Then move the TV over to center of the blank wall....See MoreUser
7 years agodanielj_2009
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7 years agodchall_san_antonio
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7 years agodanielj_2009
7 years agodchall_san_antonio
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7 years agodanielj_2009
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