It can be fun to breed your own zinnias - Part 41
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
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It can be fun to breed your own zinnias - Part 22
Comments (103)Hi Jason, Welcome to this message thread. Zinnias are not houseplants, so growing them indoors is considerably more trouble than growing them outdoors. At least, that is the case here in most areas of the "lower 48" United States. Since your Philippine climate is summer and rainy season only, I would consider growing them outside as a less troublesome alternative. Zinnias are tender plants and susceptible to frost. Here in central-east Kansas we had a 23-degree F killing frost a couple of nights ago, so all of my outdoor zinnias are dead. But apparently that would not be a factor for you. There may be environmental factors in the Philippines that I don't know about, such as exotic insect pests or other creatures that have an appetite for zinnias. If there are any people reading this thread who have any experience gardening in the Philippines, we invite you to join in and share your knowledge here. As far as I know, there is no Philippine Gardening forum on GardenWeb, although there is a Tropicals forum, with several related forums. None of which address the problem of growing zinnias in the tropics, unless there is a message thread like that buried somewhere. There might be. Here in Kansas, zinnias are easy to grow outside and hard to grow inside. That said, as an enthusiastic zinnia hobbyist, I do grow zinnias inside, and have done so for several years, to extend my zinnia hobby year-round. I am growing a generation of newly hybridized zinnias from freshly saved seeds inside now. "I am thinking about planting it indoors using full spectrum CFL bulbs..... " I don't use compact fluorescent light bulbs because I don't need the "compact" feature, and I do need an extended light source. I use inexpensive 4-foot fluorescent shoplights, with 6500K T8 32-watt bulbs. Depending on the shelf size, I get three or four shoplights over each shelf. Each shoplight has two T8 bulbs. I overdrive many of my shoplights for nearly double the light output. Overdriven fluorescent bulbs are quite bright, although noticeably warmer to the touch, and probably have a shorter life because of that. But my bulbs are rated at 20,000 hours, so they usually outlast my fluorescent light ballasts even when overdriven. I get several years of use out of both my bulbs and ballasts. "should I germinate it first using paper towel method and then transfer it to the soil?, or should I just plant the seeds directly to the soil?" With paper towel germination, you risk damaging the root or cotyledons while handling the sprouted seedling to transplant it into the growing medium. The seedling can get into a contorted shape in the paper towel that is difficult to get properly situated in a growing medium without damaging the seedling. I plant my zinnia seeds directly in a growing medium, one seed per 3.25-inch square plastic pot, about a quarter-inch deep. I use a sterile growing medium instead of soil because there are several soil-borne diseases and pests and because a growing medium can have superior drainage and oxygen availability for the zinnia roots. Zinnias, like many plants, can "drown". "...and how many hours should I expose the plant to the light? " I usually set my timers to 16 hours of light and 8 hours of darkness. Sometimes 17 and 7. Zinnias are nominally Short Day Length plants, which means that the shorter days (or longer nights) of Fall trigger flowering. But the problem with indoor growing is that even with 17-hour days, zinnias will put out a first bloom in 5 to 6 weeks from when they germinated. I would prefer to get more vegetative growth, and I wish I could find a way to get that without pinching the growing point to cause branching. I am still learning the ins and outs of zinnia culture myself. I am thinking about experimenting with still longer daylight time periods. I can go into more details about growing zinnias indoors, but first I would like to know more about your situation -- in particular whether it might be better to grow your zinnias outdoors. And maybe somebody else can "chime in" with some comments as well. ZM...See MoreIt can be fun to breed your own zinnias - Part 42
Comments (106)Hi Rogelio, Actually, this is not the latest part of this message series -- the current thread is Part 43. However, no harm done, and I will respond to you here. But you might want to move over to Part 43 to continue our exchange. " My question is I wanted to grow zinnias indoors, over the winter after reading this blog is it safe to assume an 8/12 light schedule would induce flowering? 8 0n 12 hours off? " No, there are three things wrong with that. First of all, the two numbers need to add up to 24, not 20. Second of all, the hours of light need to be greater than the hours of dark. (I use 16 hours of light and 8 hours of dark or sometimes 17 hours of light and 7 hours of dark.) And third, you don't need to "induce flowering" with zinnias. They will automatically form a bud after 5 or 6 leaf pairs. Not only do you not need to induce flowering, I don't know of any legitimate way you could keep them from flowering. " Also when breeding if I find a specimen I want to collect or chuck the pollen would I just clip the head off and dust the flower I want to seed to see what happens? " I don't understand that question. Perhaps you could restate it. But let's move over to Part 43 to continue this. That is a nice bunch of zinnias in your photo, and they look well grown. ZM...See MoreIt can be fun to breed your own zinnias - Part 53
Comments (103)Hello four, " "Modified", that is. Do they have nectar? " Some of them have nectar, the ones I have observed with butterflies, skippers, bees, or day-flying moths feeding on them. I have no way of knowing whether my indoor specimens have nectar or not. I think they probably do have nectar. Just no butterflies to confirm that. " If the florets have a reasonable amount of nectar, then the volume of nectar in that one flower would be a butterflies' bonanza. " I have taken a few tubular zinnia petals apart, and the amount of nectar I find in each petal is relatively small. I would not describe it as a drop, but something more like a "micro-drop". Zinnias always attract a bunch of butterflies and such, but I think there are probably other flowers that have more volume of nectar. I am of the opinion that you have to be careful what you wish for. I still remember that freakish zinnia bloom that had so much nectar, and the tiny ants that were attracted to it in such scary numbers. ZM...See MoreIt can be fun to breed your own zinnias - Part 54
Comments (112)Hello Fred, " ...is there a good way to separate out viable seeds to keep and discard those that look like they won't germinate? I'm just yanking out a dozen petals and pinching them, discarding the thinnest ones. And the florets seeds look quite different, thinner, and many look like they can't possibly germinate. " Good question. There is a learning curve here, but you can gently squeeze a green zinnia seed between your thumb and forefinger to "feel" the embryo inside the seed. Seeds with undeveloped embryos will feel flat and empty. The embryo is not really a seed within a seed, but it feels a little like that. The embryo is actually just the baby plant with a pair of tiny cotyledons (seed leaves) and a tap root stub. As an experiment, you can remove the embryo from a green seed and plant just the embryo. I once planted a whole flat of embryos. This is a photo of some viable green seeds that have been dried, which turns them brown. This is a photo of some chaff with mostly floret seeds. This is a photo of some fairly freshly picked green seeds. The green seed technique has been invaluable to me in my zinnia project. I learned it from Jackie_R in a much earlier part of this "It can be fun" message series. ZM...See More- 7 years ago
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