Yes, I'd wait until they have begun to actively grow. If the leaf buds/nodes have not begun to fatten up and grow it's a little early yet. If they are already starting to grow then go ahead and prune them. There is no sure rule for it because it's a very climate specific thing and there are a lot micro climates that can influence things. For me spring comes a little later than elsewhere here even though I'm in zone 6. I'm right on the lake and that big expanse of water was frozen all winter and takes time to warm up. The cold wind coming off the water keeps my yard cooler than places even a few miles inland from me in the spring. However, in the fall it takes a long time for that water to cool down again so I'm warmer than inland and will have roses blooming sometimes into November. You have to learn how your area works and go with the right time for you. I don't just start at 1/3 of the way down. Sometimes they're still healthy much higher than that and I like to leave mine with as much good cane to start out with as possible. In our cold zones we lose a lot as it is. Start at the top of each cane and cut off about 2 inches. Look at the center of the cane. Is it White/green or tan/brown? White/green is live cane. Tan /brown is dead wood. Keep cutting down about 2 inches at a time just above an outward facing leaf bud until you get to cane that has a clear, clean white/green center. From there down you should be good. But also check down the sides of the canes for dark streaks or damage. If the cane has been damaged further down chances are it will die back to below that damage anyway so you might as well take it off.

Just got another catalog today and have been looking into the climbers..... Well for now, just the roses and the clematis. I've actually added a third (annual) vine before which too works. However sometimes 3 is a crowd. Apart from rose climbers, I've actually been thinking of what to grow over a trellis of mine and I'm concidering getting a green grape vine. So now, get back to your homework.

Climbers need to spread out semi-horizontally in order to bloom well. The space between the windows doesn't look big enough for a real climber. Possibly it could be extended sideways above the windows, although tending a large climber on a wall is a lot of trouble. Wrapping a rose around an 8' pillar would keep it narrower and provide the horizontality needed for good bloom. For example, you can use a 10' 4 x 4 with short horizontal arms attached at various heights, a rebar tripod, or a four-legged tower. You need a rose that is fairly flexible for wrapping. Some basic points are, don't try to grow a real climber on one of those dinky fan trellises, and be sure the variety you plant--whether shrub or climber--is fully cane hardy in your climate, or it won't make the kind of statement you are hoping for. You can get reliable advice about hardiness here, not necessarily at the garden center.

If your soil is thawed and workable you can move the rose now. However, I think maybe that's not the case yet in Northern Ohio. It certainly isn't here in SE Michigan. Even though the top of the soil seems to be soft if you dig a little further down it's still pretty frozen. But early spring when they just begin to wake up from dormancy is a good time to move roses in general. If you move them just before they leaf out they'll hardly know they were moved and should survive just fine. I don't usually put any fertilizers right in the hole. It can burn small, tender feeder roots. Move it first and then work some slow release fertilizer into the soil around the rose once you see it begin to grow. the soil sounds fine and yes, you definitely want full sun. Roses need 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight to grow and bloom properly. If there isn't enough sun they may grow but won't bloom much.