29.7 mg/L magnesium in my water test regarding softener sizing.
Mark Hofer
7 years ago
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7 years agoMark Hofer
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Water Softener Sizing and Advice
Comments (5)Since you typically only have 2 people, I would not go any larger than a 2 cuft softener as you would run the risk of channeling. At the TDS of your water, you will want to regen with 8 lb salt per cuft of resin to keep hardness bleed to a minimum. That will place you at 10 days between regens with 2 people and 4-5 days with 4-5 people. High quality American or German made resin. This will provide a tight size distribution for optimal flow within the resin Since you have WELL WATER: 8% crosslinked resin. Top basket. This serves two purposes. It sets up a proper water distribution during normal operation and prevents resin loss during backwash. Gravel underbed. The gravel underbed is there to set up proper flow patterns, improve backwash and prevent channeling. Many softener sales companies like to leave this out or sell softeners with a vortex system instead. Vortex systems weigh less than gravel so they cost less to ship. In addition, they are a more expensive item that adds profit for the softener salesperson, but provides no additional benefit to the homeowner . It simply adds another piece of equipment that can break. Fleck or Clack valves. These set the industry standard. Be aware that you will not be able to purchase Clack valves online. This is not a problem if you purchase locally. Noryl bypass. Most softeners are available with either Noryl or stainless bypass valves. Both are good valves, but the noryl tends to be more reliable when not used for long periods of time. Install the softener with a three-valve bypass. This will make it so much easier if you ever need to remove the softener for repairs or wish to take it with you when you move. Use full-port, quarter-turn valves. This post was edited by aliceinwonderland_id on Tue, Jan 21, 14 at 11:33...See MoreCorrect sizing of Fleck water softener
Comments (22)You need to get into the master programming of the 7000. When you get in there don't change any values EXCEPT what I tell you to. Write down what the values are set at BEFORE you change them. If you don't know how to get into the master programming here's the manual... click here VALUES TO CHANGE: C = 27 x1000 H = 13 RS = SF SF = 20 DO = 8 BF = 23 You might want to consider getting a small computer UPS (uninterruptable power supply) like a 500va or so to provide power to the 7000 in case of an outage. The 7000 will remember it's settings but a power outage in the middle of a regen will stop the 7000 from advancing through the stages and water will continue to run to drain. It's cheap insurance and protects the 7000 from power spikes, surges, and brown outs. Advice to assemble... If the top basket is not installed on the 7000 click it in now. Make sure it fits the dist tube. There are different diameter tubes. Tape or plug the top of the distributor tube so no resin gets inside. When you start putting stuff in the resin tank it will get heavy so place it where you want it FIRST. Add a few gallons of water to the resin tank. Put the dist tube in and place the nose of the bottom basket in the dimple in the tank bottom. Center the dist tube. Carefully pour the gravel in slowly so you don't damage the basket. Gravel should cover the basket and dist tube should be centered. Add resin to tank careful not to move or pull dist tube. Use food grade plumber's silicone grease (do not use a petroleum product) on the 7000 big o-ring and on the smaller o-ring in the bottom that slides over the dist tube. Once you have set the 7000 on the dist tube do not attempt to pull up or remove the 7000 or the dist tube will lift and you get to start all over....See MoreIs my water softener sized correctly?
Comments (9)Hey It seems a service manual for this unit could prove to be very elusive as it is a re-branded product created using the fleck value. I have worked out the model number though: NuWave MD400 - no website for NuWave. The brochure numbers are identical to my findings - helpfully they quoted at 21 hardness! http://www.fountainsofteners.co.uk/water-softeners-from-340/nuwave-md400-up-to-4-people-inc-salt-worth-over-20/c-md400/ Maximum capacity at 21 degrees clarke (300mgl) - 2045 Litres (449 gallons) Salt used per regeneration - 1.6kg (3.52 lbs) Amount of resin - 10 litres (2.19 gallons) Water used per regeneration - 50litres (10.99 gallons) Minimum flow rate required per minute - 1 litre (0.21 gallon) Maximum flow rate per minute - 50 litres (10.99 gallons) Inlet and outlet connections - 3/4" (standard washing machine size) Drain and overflow connections - 1/2" barb (Garden hose size) I know you said you can't assume but I think the 0.12 must be gpm. Given that their values double up it would make sense that the next step is 0.25gpm and so on. I can't believe it is litres. Do any of the above numbers help to confirm that at all? Using your calculation it gives us: 9 x 0.12 = 1.08 gallons (4.9 litres) - does this match up with anything above? Cheers...See MoreWater Test Results/Filtration/Softener set-up question(s) -Lurker?
Comments (1)I assume you do not currently have a softener in place. Please confirm. I will try to go through your questions in order. Conductivity: This will always be higher than TDS. It has to do with they types of ions in your water. Your conductivity is on the high end of the scale based on your TDS, but not out of line. Other analysis: Do you have any rusty, brown, or black staining on fixtures? If so - test your water for iron and manganese. Sediment filtration: Two cartridge filters is certainly a viable option. Install them in parallel so that one cartridge may be changed without interrupting water supply to your home. Make sure to use 4" diameter, not 2". Big Blue is a very reliable brand. I like the clear housings for a visible indicator, but that is just my personal preference. All cartridge filters are a pain to change. If you currently have to make frequent cartridge changes you may wish to consider a backwashing sediment filter instead of cartridges. It would be similar in appearance to a softener, but pretty much no work on your part to operate. Softeners: Kinetico softeners are very reliable, but expensive (as you mentioned). If you are willing to spend the money up front and like your local dealer, they would be a good choice. Regeneration time is not an issue with any twin-tank softener, whether Kinetico or Fleck, since one tank is always available to provide soft water while the other is being regenerated. A Fleck of Clack twin tank softener would take up significantly more space than a Kinetico because you would have to purchase a larger softener to accommodate the higher flow rate for your jacuzzi tub. Sprinkler system: Yes, bypass the sprinkler system. There is no sense paying to soften all that extra water. RO: Any RO system will last longer if fed softened water. The minerals you get from water are in minute quantities - even heavily mineral laden water would be insufficient to provide the minerals your body needs. Additionally, your water has nitrates. If you want them removed from your drinking water, RO is the only reasonable way to do so. Why do you want a carbon filter? What, specifically, do you want removed from your water? Certainly two would be overkill. Once may be as well, unless you have a specific contaminant in mind. Softener bypass: Here is a picture of what a three-valve bypass should look like. And a drawing of a setup:...See MoreMark Hofer
7 years agoUser
7 years agoMark Hofer
7 years agoUser
7 years agoMark Hofer
7 years agoUser
7 years agoMark Hofer
7 years ago
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