If you later decide you want to filter out all the "bad" stuff you call always add a high quality water filter. Some high priced softeners also add filters, but I prefer to keep the two functions separate to make the maintenance easier. I don't want to replace a high priced combo unit just because one part of it has gone bad. That definitely makes sense, and is the route I've decided. If I add any filter it's likely to be something for drinking water only. "Anyway, most tap water has a hardness (CaCO3) of 35 to 45ppm. Iron and manganese will vary depending the source water and treatment techniques." Well, maybe, but not here. That's like 2-3 grains per gallon. It's over 15 here for sure, and maybe higher. Central Illinois has some pretty hard water. BTW, check out Penn & Telle'rs "Truth about bottled water" on youtube. Hmm, I might have too. I don't drink bottled water, and realize half of that comes from city water sources and the other half from springs which probably don't even get tested . . . As to my water testing, after doing a bit more research I had them test for hardness, pH, manganese, and iron. I have aquarium test kits for pH and hardness, and so after I get a lab test on those, I'll compare them to my aquarium test kit results (see how accurate my test kits are) and use them to keep on eye on the water quality. I know it works, cause when I test softened water, one drop changes the water to green, while with unsoftened water, it takes 25 drops (supposed to be 25 degrees of hardness, or about 26 grains per gallon). The question is just how accurate it is vs a lab test.

First, let's clear up a couple of misconceptions you have. Magnesium is hardness and will be removed by a softener, not Terminox or other iron removal media. MANGANESE will behave similarly to iron, but worse and will be removed by iron removal media. You haven't had your water tested for manganese (at least not that you have reported here). Second, water PRESSURE is highly unlikely to be a problem for iron removal media. Water FLOW RATE, on the other hand, could very well be a problem on a private well. It is common for people to say pressure when they really mean flow, but it is an important distinction. To determine the flow you have available, you want to find a full-bore spigot as close to where you will be installing the iron removal equipment as possible. Failing that, if you have an outdoor spigot near your pump house, that will be fine. Time how long it takes to fill a 5 gallon bucket. Repeat several times and average the time. Divide by 5 and that is your flow rate in gpm (gallons per minute). You need that information before choosing appropriate iron removal. Pay very close attention when vendors suggest iron removal equipment size. I've noticed that many of them publish backwash requirements that are contrary to the media-manufacturers specifications. That won't end well. Here is some light reading regarding iron/sulfur removal options: Softener: A softener with specialty resin is capable of removing dissolved iron, up to 7 ppm (mg/L) but asking a softener to remove iron at those upper limits is really pushing it so I do not recommend this method. In addition, a softener will become fouled with particulate iron, which you may have as well. A softener will also do nothing for sulfur compounds, so is not a good option for you as a stand-alone treatment. Oxidation/Filtration: An oxidizer such as ozone, air, or chlorine may be used to react with the iron and force it to become particulate iron that can then be removed via filtration. This will also remove most sulfur compounds. A typical setup would involve the oxidizing unit, a holding tank, then a media filter. This type of system works quite well, but takes some expertise in sizing - you would want a water treatment pro that you trust to help you with this option. Oxidizing filtration media: This type of treatment consists of a sealed tank filled with one of several media. Water passes through and is oxidized and filtered by the media. Most will remove sulfur compounds as well as iron. These are relatively easy to operate and what I would recommend for the average homeowner. There are several different media that can be used: Manganese greensand: water runs through for treatment. The media must be regenerated with potassium permanganate. Care must be taken with dealing with potassium permanganate as it readily dies organic material, such as your skin, a purple-brown color. Some people are quite comfortable dealing with the chemical; others are not. Synthetic greensand: This is essentially the same as option (a) but consists of a coating of greensand on a silica sand core so does not require as much backwash flow. Service flow rate is 2 - 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 12 gpm/sqft. Birm: This media acts as a catalyst to force oxidation of iron. While it does not need to be regenerated, it does need fairly high dissolved oxygen in the water. If your water does not have adequate dissolved oxygen (and it probably doesn't since it is well water), air injection would be necessary prior to the birm. Additionally, birm requires a minimum pH of 6.8. Service flow rate is 3.5 - 5.0 gpm/sqft. Backwash flow rate is 11 - 20 gpm/sqft, depending upon water temperatures and desired bed expansion. Pyrolox: an ore that oxidizes then filters the iron out. It does not need regeneration, but needs to be backwashed (to rinse out the iron) at a high rate. pH range is 6.5 - 9.0. This type of filter works very well, but backwash is critical. Service flow rate is 5 gpm/sqft. Backwash is 25-30 gpm/sqft. Backwash daily. Terminox: Similar to Pyrolox, but a proprietary formula . It does not require as much backwash flow rate and is more resistance to a low pH. The particulars are only available from the company that sells it. Backwash daily. Filox: Also similar to Pyrolox. pH range 5.0 - 9.0. Backwash flow 12-15 gpm/sqft. Service flow 6 gpm/sqft. It must be backwashed daily.

Check out your local extension service for labs in your area that conduct drinking water testing. They can also give you insight as to pollutants of concern that you may want to add onto a standard drinking water test. As long as they are accredited, online labs should be fine. In fact, often times local labs will mail out their samples to other labs if they do not conduct a particular test onsite. No need to test for 100 pollutant parameters. Sticking to the standard tests, plus a few extra parameters you're concerned about, will be a heck of a lot cheaper than a larger-scale analysis--especially if it's treated municipal water. Good luck!

I know this is an older thread. however, I feel I could add some additional points to consider that I found on Qualitywaterlab when I was researching whole house water filters for my own home due to high PFAS concentrations in our water quality report. Here are some takeaways I've learned: Water test results: It's important to understand the quality of your water before selecting a whole house water filter and softener. A professional water test can provide you with information about the levels of contaminants in your home’s water supply, which will help you determine what type of filtration system is best for your needs. Type of filter: The type of filter you choose will depend on the size and complexity of your water system, as well as the types of contaminants that need to be removed from your water supply. Different filters are designed for different purposes, so it's important to understand what type best suits your needs. Capacity: It's also important to consider how much water you use in a day when selecting a whole house water filter and softener system. If you have a large family or use more than average amounts of water, then you may want to select one with higher capacity than normal systems offer. Maintenance requirements: Some whole house systems require regular maintenance such as changing out cartridges or cleaning sediment traps regularly while others are self-cleaning and require little upkeep over time. Consider which option works best for your lifestyle before making a purchase decision. Cost: Whole house filtration systems can range in price depending on their features and capabilities, so it’s important to compare prices between models before making a final decision about which one is right for you and your budget constraints.. Warranty/Guarantee: Many manufacturers offer warranties or guarantees on their products, so make sure that any product you buy has a good warranty or guarantee in case something goes wrong. This will help protect your investment and ensure that you get the most out of your purchase.