Fiddle Leaf Fig Drooping and Turning Yellow - Help (pics included)
craigb89
7 years ago
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craigb89
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Fiddle leaf fig - brown/crispy leaves, yellowing
Comments (8)"I'm guessing the pot is so large that I've been overwatering the tree and also not flushing it when I water. Is this he reason the leaves are turning brown?" It sounds like the foliage that's in the process of being shed is part of the plant's drought response due to too much water in the soil. Too much water = not enough oxygen to drive the O2 dependent process of water uptake = not enough water getting to distal parts of the plant (leaves - particularly tips and margins) = shedding in response. The yellowing is a result of the lack of chlorophyll that is being salvaged (along with mobile nutrients and other bio compounds) by the plant from leaves being shed. "..... what should the dowel rod look like when it needs to be watered? Should it be completely dry at the bottom of the rod and not pick up any of the dirt?" When the dowel first comes out clean and dry, it's time to water. I'd work toward getting watering under control, then follow the instructions in the thread I left a link to above to turn the plant around. There are some things you can do to help avoid limitations associated with saturated media. You're sure to have other questions, so don't be shy about voicing them. We all want you to have the best growing experience you possibly can. Al...See MoreDrooping Fiddle Leaf Fig
Comments (16)As long as there was nothing phytotoxic introduced into the soil, your best bet is to keep it warm, keep humidity levels above 50% if you can, and make absolutely sure to avoid over-watering (because that does trigger a drought response and tosses a wet blanket on root function). It goes w/o saying that under-watering should be avoided as well. Using a 'tell' In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material like clay, or when the weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, this type of situation cause the loss of a very notable degree of potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One very reliable method of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a pin. Push the tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al...See MoreTiny yellow dots on top of Fiddle Leaf Fig leaves.
Comments (6)That's a physiological issue that occurs when your plant takes up water from the soil with dissolved minerals (salts) in it. Some of that water, with salt dissolved in it, makes it to the surface of the leaf. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind the salt it contains as a little white powdery dot. This is also harmless, but could be a signal that the level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil is creeping upward. If you witness it, you might try flushing the soil thoroughly - especially if you've been watering in small sips so the plant doesn't have to deal with soil saturation. That particular way of watering ensures that all salts from your tapwater and fertilizer solutions remain in the soil where they can create quite a bit of mischief. The salt deposits on the leaves will rub right off with a damp cloth or paper towel. If the dots don't wipe off, suspect another physiological issue called oedema. Oedema Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves. Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady. Some things that can help you prevent oedema: * Increase light levels and temperature * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems. * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity. * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil. * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants. Al...See MoreFiddle Leaf Fig help
Comments (4)The brown can definitely be a sign of overwatering. First, throw the moisture meter in the trash. They don’t actually detect moisture, they detect salts in the water. If you stuck it in a cup of distilled water it would read dry. They just don’t work well at at to monitor soil moisture. Instead, use a sharpened wooden dowel and stick it in the soil all the way to the bottom and then pull it out (it work hurt the roots). If it’s dark, damp with soil stuck to it, don’t water. Keep checking every day or two and water when the dowel comes out clean and dry....See MoreDave
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agoMelissa Ermili
6 years agoHU-205983461
3 years agoHU-205983461
3 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
3 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)