@patty_2006 - Nothing has happened with my machine, because I stay on top of the sudsing, which was part of my learning curve with this machine (our first FL washer) and figured out the right dose for my machine and water. Too much detergent, as well as additives, can ruin the spider and the insides of a washer. Detergent and fabric softener residue can also cause the dreaded mold problem. In spite of my Miele Owner's Manual stating to 'closely follow the detergent manufacturer's suggestions,' the guys at Miele USA's 1-800 tell me to use 1/4 of whatever the detergent packaging says, as a starting point, and adjust up as needed. (that old "YMMV") Using a one-fourth dose is also what my salesperson told me, as well as the technician who came out for an unrelated minor repair. THOSE guys know our local water. Which temperature(s) are you washing your whites, etc.? We can't help you without more info on that. Two TBSP of Persil might be too much for your water quality. My Miele is a super-large-capacity (approx 3.5 to 4 cu. ft) which is (I think) only slightly larger than your machine's capacity. When the drum is 1/2 full with dry laundry, I use only 10ml/1 tsp. of Persil. That is the amount that works with our water quality, which is med/hard. Any more detergent, and I see suds in the final rinse and waste a lot of water trying to get it out of my laundry. Truth is stranger than fiction, but there you have it. Detergent residue/build-up can cause dingy whites. It also makes clothing/everything scratchy. Now that the old pre-FL detergent residue is gone and I have my dosing figured out, everything comes out of my Miele W&D so soft, that I don't know why anyone would need fabric softener. Does your Miele have an "Extend" feature, to make the wash cycle last longer? Try that with a warmer water setting and less detergent. Have you read the thread linked below? Here is a link that might be useful: My Detergent Diet

LMAO,,, Miss Karen, I adore u after reading u'r "post & moan alert". U are woman after my own heart. However, I have a bit of an advantage, I myself am an appliance/HVAC tech, and although I'm pretty sure I'm not as old as u'r repairman, I was trained by those old farts & boy did I gain a wealth of knowledge and have the utmost respect for them. They most certainly DO know what they're talking about. And of course, we hate to see the new junk coming down the line that we have to try to figure out what the engineers were thinking when they dreamed this up, lack of electronic knowledge isn't possible in this business because there are way fewer of us like u'rself who opt for plain and simple and far, far too many millenials thinking that more expensive anand bells & whistles is better for the environment. please. They're just keeping up with the Jones'. Yes, the old fashioned top loaders do use more water, but that's a sacrifice I'm willing to make for clean drawers! How about u? Lol Unfortunately, I'm looking for a new laundry pair since we are moving and I'll be damned,,,, they discontinued the good old direct drive models. Again, what the hell were thinking! I know hat they're thinking, "they're way to dependable and we gotta generate revenue." I just found u'r comments while doing some research and sure got a laugh with u. Hope u ended up with something descent. Tammy, former appliance

Wow what a decision. I have the 1986. When I was doing research back in 2002 I decided on the 1926. When buy time came the 1986 was there and I bought it in Jan 2003. There are differences. The 1926 will allow for 4 or 5 rinses. The 1986 will allow for 2 or 3 rinses, but ends up using the same amount of water. This is because the 1986 uses more water for each fill in the rinse plus I have mine programmed for higher fill rinses. The water can be up over the bottom of the door and into the glass while the clothes are lifted and then plunged into and through the water. A good looking rinse. The 1926 does the rinse and I think then does a slower spin between each rinse. The 1986 will rinse and then do a faster(not max) spin between the rinse. The 1926 lets you select the spin speed in rpm. The 1986 uses terms like low med high max, but these translate into the same spin speeds as found on the 1926. At first I was upset with the lack of rinses but found that 2 or 3 high fill rinses with spins between work just fine. If you use 3 rinses, the middle one will do short tumbles and longer pauses so that the clothes soak in the water. Also if I want additional rinses I can use the fine rinse cycle. This cycle provides two very high fill rinses, with the water for the last rinse being taken in through the fabric softener dispenser and you can use any spin speed you want. Jeans, Dress shirts. Perm Press works just as well in my opinion except that it will not give the same type of spin that Jeans, and dress shirts do. The speed will be there but the duration is not. Perm Press gives what I call half a..s spins but well...things don't require ironing. Silk...I use this cycle for silk shirts..it works great. I also use the wool cycle for wool sweaters....great. The 1926 defaults to extended, the 1986 defaults to quicker. I don't think the default quick cycle is the same as the rapid cycle on the 1926. I think the 1986 default cycle may be a bit better. Extended. when I first bought the washer I used Extended for white cotton all the time, and I would use a temp of 140F. Now I find that white cotton gets very clean using the default cycle and I use 120F or 140F if very dirty. If you use Extended each phase of the cycle is longer. However the length depends on the cycle you select, so less time will be added if you select extended for dedicates, than if you would have selected it for cottons. Here is one thing I don't think the 1926 has and that is fuzzy logic to determine load size. This is a major plus for me. The 1986 will determine the size of the load and then adjust the estimated wash time...So If I start a small load with an estimated time of 49 minutes, after a few minutes the machine will detect that it has a small load and drop minutes from each portion of the cycle....and still get everything clean. The shortest wash phase i've seen has been 10 minutes. Time reduction occurs when using the Extended option also. Also the machine will automatically add a rinse if needed, but this has only happened 1 or 2 times for me. The 203F cycle is something I really don't need. I only use 190F on items that do not contain spandex or polyester. If you subject these to temps much over 140F they will start to fall apart quickly. I will say though that when you use 190F and you stand near the machine you can hear the water near the boiling point during the tumbling pauses. You know that sound you hear in a pan when the water is really really hot. Prewash. You can use this option on almost any cycle. It starts with cold water, heats it a bit, and then drains it and the washer moves on to what ever cycle you have selected. This is very good for stains. So over all I am pleased with my 1986. Of course I didn't have the option of getting the 1926 but I am pleased with the machine I have and don't plan on getting another anytime soon. If I move..this washer goes with me too. I hope someone with the 1926 will reply and describe the operation so that you can get a good idea of each machine.

Had the shocks/struts on our older Miele replaced where it was, in house. Bearings OTOH yes, the technician is correct it that your washer will have to go to MieleUSA's workshop in New Jersey. This is unless he has one closer to wherever you live. Either way it is going to be an expensive project and that is even if MieleUSA will do it. Your series is not that "old" so it may be approved. Otherwise MieleUSA will do everything it can to dissuade if not turn down the job. We have an older Miele and quite honestly have been told by MieleUSA don't call them anymore as they aren't coming out again, ever, period, end of story. MieleUSA does not have a surplus of technicians and the ones they do have and or are training both in house and from outside sources are not being taught anything before the 1200 series washing machines and matching dryers IIRC. Certainly not the 10XX or 19XX series. Your husband is correct in that a new bearing job is going to be expensive and you might be better off buying new. That and or search around locally on eBay or Craigslist for a used 1200 washer (we see them often enough), and go from there. MieleUSA has the equipment and so forth to replace bearings because they will normally do the repair if the thing goes while machine is under warranty. However on an older unit you have to balance out the cost of repair versus how long the machine will last otherwise, this includes other repairs. That is to say if you do the bearings this year and next the motor, motherboard, or whatever fails. While some do the repair onsite in Europe changing the bearings on a Miele requires removing the tubs (after disconnecting everything attached), using either a very strong hoist or some other equally strong but stable method. The cast iron drums are what make Miele washers so stable but also weigh a lot.