I used to just damp mop with Murphy's Oil. Use about half as much Murphy's oil as the directions call for and then re-oil. I found that waxing did make the floor easier to keep clean and lengthen times between oilings.

Happy, I had oiled my soapstone one week prior to the arrival to the dry wax. Karla felt that was close enough. I did not use a degreaser prior to using the dry wax. It will go on very similarly to the oil/beeswax combo you were using, just a bit harder to spread. After I apply it, I use a dry cloth to buff it. I try not to use any type of degreaser or strong cleaner on my soapstone because it cuts through the wax finish and I end up with rings, that drive me crazy. So I only use hot water and a little bit of liquid dish detergent to wipe off the counters. Hope this helps and let me know how they look afterwards.

I too thought we could only use oil on our wood countertops, but after a few months I got really tired of doing it, it was a messy gross procedure, and it never really looked good. We don't cut on the countertops either, but I still didn't want a polyurethane or something toxic. I did want something that didn't require so much maintenance. So we sanded the tops down to get rid of the oil, applied mineral spirits, and decided to Waterlox them. OMG, what a difference. I love the way they look and feel now. They've held up great, even around the sink. Waterlox is a tung-oil finish, but it doesn't need to be renewed monthly or built-up over time like mineral oil, so it's really not like "oiling the countertops." We used the Waterlox Original, which has a semi-gloss finish, but they do sell a satin finish as well (see the Products page at the link below). You probably don't want the marine or "bar-top" finish for your kitchen - brings to mind those awful super shiny tables in the restaurants in Florida I remember from my youth - you know with ropes and shells embedded in them. :-) Anyway, you can recoat without sanding, and it is super-easy to apply. It dries to a hard finish, and water beads up on it. Here are some photos. This was after just one coat. They recommend 3-4 coats. Tung oil is non-toxic, but it is made from nuts, so be cautious if you have someone allergic to nuts in your household. Here is a link that might be useful: Waterlox

Were you instructed to purchase all 4 cleaning and maintenance products??? You would do very well to have the refinisher come in and (purchase all products from him/her) show you how to maintain your floors. You will probably pay $50/hour for this 1-2 hour tutorial. You and the refinisher will work these spots together and apply the finish oil to bring back the original look. And then you will learn your weekly, monthly and yearly maintenance requirements for an oiled floor. As pretty as these floors are, they take work. Much more work than a polyfinished floor.