Does anyone have VARNISHED (not oiled/waxed) wooden countertops?
lceh
16 years ago
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dirtdigging101
16 years agoreyesuela
16 years agoRelated Discussions
anyone using oiled wood floors (not polyurethane)?
Comments (37)Shilpsb - Overall I like them (Garrison French Connection Provence), I like the natural color and the low sheen...but there are some areas where it does seem like there's a haze although it blends into the different planks. I probably am the only one that can tell! I haven't had problems yet with staining, I just wipe up water as soon as I see it and then clean with the Woca spray whenever I spill anything. I have done the refresher a couple times but have not done the re-oiling... is that a product you can buy? For the rugs, I have put a couple World Market small 2'x3" with the rug mat underneath... they were inexpensive and I just wanted to get something until I can do more decorating - they are too small but they do the trick. What do they say could happen to the floors with rubber backing? I know they say no blue tape, etc... I've been very conscientious with these floors, but they do have a lot of variance in color and look rustic so I'm just going with it. I would rather be eco-friendly anyway. I heard about some at Plastica which are pvc and can wiped clean...http://plasticastore.com/shop/home/moroccan-pattern-mat/...See MoreDoes anyone on here actually have formica countertops?
Comments (72)Syllabus- Husband and I sort of doctored it up a bit, using various ideas we found on the Internet. I was sure I'd seen a video that gave us a good nudge in the right direction, but I'll be damned if I can find it now! Isn't that always the way? Lol Basically, the way we did it without any special tools or kits, you need to use the laminate sheets rather than the preformed countertops. Build the base of the counter with your plywood or whatever (we had existing countertops which we peeled the old laminate off of, thereby skipping this step). After you have your sink hole cut to size and you know the position of your sink, what you're basically doing is sandwiching the sink between the plywood and the laminate layer. We cut the sink hole in the laminate ahead of time, then epoxied the sink down to the counter, vey much like you would with a standard sink, just laying it in the hole with the edges overlapping. The video I had seen used automotive putty to taper out the edges of the sink itself, much like you putty drywall to smooth out imperfections. We found the putty wasn't drying, and was instead cracking and shrinking. Plan b, plain old wall repair patch, the stuff I keep around for filling nail holes and dents in my walls. Let dry and sand til smooth so that the hard edge of the sink itself is tapered out a few inches in all directions. I painted over the putty just to ensure a nice smooth surface that wouldn't soften or crumble when we put the adhesive over it. Then we used contact cement for the bulk of the laminate, however at the edges around the sink, we went back to the heavy duty marine epoxy, just to ensure it was a solid adhesion. Lay the laminate over the counter, positioning your precut sink hole over the sink (carefully! You only get one shot here!) and roll out to smooth and remove air bubbles. Lastly, I did a thin bead of silicone around the edge of the sink where it meets the Formica. Clear as mud? This would be so much easier to explain with pics or video!...See MoreWax Finish Floors - Anyone have them?
Comments (1)Wax is used as a protective top coat over shellac or varnish, not as the only finish. Both are high maintenance finishes for floors because they are not very protective at all. Remember wax rings on tables? That's what moisture does. No abrasion real arasion resistance either in addition to being damaged by moisture. A better choice, but still not low maintenance would be the new oil finishes. They are a polymer oil that's less protective than poly but more than shellac or varnish. Your grandmother celebrated massively when the new poly finishes were created, and would be horrified that anyone woud want to go back to being a slave to their floors....See MoreWhat Stain under Oil Wax finish?
Comments (4)Leave the cherry natural and use the food safe mineral oil. Why? Food safety. Most stains are particle products and the particle can be pulled out of the wood during use. Polyurethane is a plastic and will chip during food prep using knives. Also not desirable. Then there is the fact the cherry will darken naturally, so in a couple of years, it may well naturally darken to close to the desired shade. Compounds in the wood counteract food bacteria with cleaning by wiping with a damp cloth(soap strips the mineral oil) and a light occasional oil application. The surface does not need to remain oily, wipe on, wipe dry....See Morevjrnts
16 years agoFori
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16 years agoUser
16 years agolatjb3
8 years agoMichael Lipscomb
8 years agolakeerieamber
8 years agoMahogany House Woodworks
8 months ago
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