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Remodeling Design Dilemma Kitchens

What Stain under Oil Wax finish?

5 years ago

I am having a cherry butcher block countertop made from a local Mennonite cabinet maker. My wife wants a darker walnut-like stain (walnut butcher block is out of our price range) to go under an oil wax finish like Osmo Top Oil, or AFM Safecoat Oil Wax (walnut butcher block is out of our price range).

The cabinet maker is not familiar with these oil wax finishes, but is willing to both stain and apply the oil wax. I have researched this topic on this site and on the net and have come up with little information about what stain to use. The only thing I've found is that the stain cannot be a sealing stain. Besides Osmo Oil Stain, which is fairly expensive, has anyone used a particular stain, or know a compatible stain brand?

Thanks

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Comments (4)

PRO
User
5 years ago
Most stains will be incompatible with that top coat. Pick a stain and polyurethane type topcoat system if you want a stained cherry counter. But cherry is beautiful in it’s own right.

If this is a surface that will be used for active food prep, no stain, and no finish. Just mineral oil is safe for a surface that will be used to cut food.
User
5 years ago
Leave the cherry natural and use the food safe mineral oil. Why? Food safety. Most stains are particle products and the particle can be pulled out of the wood during use. Polyurethane is a plastic and will chip during food prep using knives. Also not desirable.

Then there is the fact the cherry will darken naturally, so in a couple of years, it may well naturally darken to close to the desired shade.

Compounds in the wood counteract food bacteria with cleaning by wiping with a damp cloth(soap strips the mineral oil) and a light occasional oil application. The surface does not need to remain oily, wipe on, wipe dry.
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Here's what I could find out about the OP's choice: Legno Bastone- Guiseppina European materials made in Europe (which explains the price tag!) 13mm thick (1/2") 180mm wide (7") 1950mm longest length (6.4') UV Cured Hardwax Oil Finish The installation instructions state this floor can be glued, floated or nailed. If nailing down, you will need to assume the use of glue-assist because of the width of these planks. A full spread glue is probably your best option (pricey as it may be). The MAINTENANCE is always what I'm after when dealing with a hardwax Finish. The manufacturer prefers OSMO products (mentions it 9-10 times in the Residential Care link) http://www.legnobastone.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Legno-Bastone-Inc-Residential-Care-Instructions-01-02-2018.pdf I ALWAYS suggest a coat of maintenance oil once the floor has been laid...just before you move back into the house. This is a common requirement for COMMERCIAL installations. The reason: these floors can look THIRSTY fresh out of the box. And if they have been exposed to remodeling activity, they can get a little worn even before you move in. To prevent owner upset, it is well worth it to have the maintenance oil put down 1-2 days before the furniture goes back in. That way you have the freshest floor finish possible. And if you are going to do the maintenance yourself, it is a GREAT TIME to have the professionals SHOW YOU what to do and how to do it. This takes all the stress out of owning oiled floors. And PLEASE purchase EVERY SINGLE OSMO item listed in the maintenance link! Get everything ready BEFORE the floor needs it! And I mean everything. That way you are READY and able when life hits the fan!
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R Q
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks. I forgot to mention that it will not be used for food prep
User
5 years ago
Then forget any of that and do Waterlox.

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