Moist spots on cinder block after spray foam installed.
Roseann S
7 years ago
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Springtime Builders
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoHomes for a Lifetime LLC
7 years agoRelated Discussions
To foam or not to foam....and other insulation advice needed.
Comments (31)We are right at the beginning of a huge transition in our country's housing stock related to performance and health. Build your house the old way (probably local code minimum) and you will get a home with average energy costs and perhaps more importantly, un-healthy Indoor Air Quality IAQ. Build your house the new way (IECC 2012) and you will get a cost-effective energy efficient home with dramatically better IAQ. Insulation is important along with the other things discussed in this thread. The two topics that deserve more light are 1. Airtightness (as measured by blower door test). 2. Fresh Outdoor Air Introduction with mechanical ventilation. Meeting the minimum requirements of the International Energy Code IECC 2012 is a cost-effective path to low- energy bills and healthy indoor air. Individual opinions and anecdotal evidence can be helpful but meeting these minimum guidelines is ones best bet for those results. Building with deep floor trusses is an easy way to get ducts into conditioned space. Even better, hang the trusses from the wall to reduce air leaks and thermal bridging. jowens751, Murphy is beautiful. Its in building climate zone 4 but personally, I would build to Zone 5 minimums due to your exposure. I would also go for less than 1.5 ACH50 on the blower door test. International code is currently at 3 ACH50 for zones 4 and above but Iam pretty sure the 2015 version will be much closer to 1.5 so try to stay ahead of history if possible. Airtightness is much easier to measure than real world R value and it has a much bigger impact on energy costs. Insulative sheathing (foam being most affordable and popular option) is practically required in the new energy code for Zones 3 and up. Open cell foam for cavity insulation has become cost competitive with densepack cellulose in many areas and blocks air movement better. Find out your local climate zone and see what the minimum energy codes (future laws) require in Table 402.1.1 of the IECC 2012. lexmomof3, I would probably upgrade but might want to cross post to HVAC forum. SEER ratings are rarely accurate as they depend on different Compressors, Air Handlers and duct install. In other words, a 12 could be outperforming a 16 but thats usually an exception. Probably more important is to get a variable speed or two stage unit to better handle de-humidification....See MoreHow to fix small gaps between garage floor & cinder foundation
Comments (4)I'm glad you're up for this. You won't have any problems. When you mix up the concrete, the temptation is always to add too much water because it makes the mixing easier. Use the proportions given on the bag, and add water slowly. If it gets too moist, just add a little more dry mix. Below is a link to a 30 second video that shows you what you will be aiming for. Even though you will be using sand mix, and not regular concrete, you are still aiming for the consistency shown in the video. Also, you don't need much volume of concrete so start with a small batch. When the consistency is right, go around and force it into the cracks, leveling off with the trowel. Don't worry about it running under the foundation or putting pressure on it: the odds of that happening are slightly less than me getting elected as next Pope. Here is a link that might be useful: Concrete working consistency...See MoreRigid foam or spray foam for vented crawl space?
Comments (4)I'm not getting into the vented vs sealed crawlspace pro & cons. but to answer OP's question, 3.5 to 4' is sufficient working room for spray foam install. closed cell has a stronger smell than open cell IMO. but the smell fades after a couple of days with either. if you are anyone in the family are sensitive then install should be done when ample time is allowed for any smells to dissipate. I'd start by investigating the recommended install (joists covered or exposed). I'd think that 4" would be ample at R-28, but I don't know your requirements in your area. just remember that you have to meet the code minimums. R-value of foam into inches of foam. not "performs like R-xx" or "average fill" same depth or MORE...not less everywhere. No Q or K values, R-values only. it is the installer that is the key figure in the install, not the salesman. make sure you are on page with the installer & be willing to go into the crawlspace & measure low spots before they leave for the day. it is worth your time. and yes dehumidifier in vented crawl is trying to dehumidify a portion of the great outdoors. best of luck....See More2x4 vs 2x6 exterior studs with spray foam insulation. Better Option?
Comments (49)Michigan occupies building climate zones 5 - 7. Zone 5 is the warmest zone that can still comply with the R20 cavity-only requirement. It looks like Ontario has adopted similar IRC mandatory exterior insulative sheathing. We use the performance compliance path on every home, one of the many advantages to including a third party energy rater. Most raters are not keen on getting too far away from code prescriptions. For some of the prescriptions, like blower door minimums, it's cost-effective to exceed code. Most high performance builders are exceeding code with exterior insulation as code encourages risky wall strategies, hence the recommended minimum table I first posted about. Even leaky, all natural homes can have poor indoor air quality. Outdoor air ventilation is now required by current IRC codes and a smart idea for any inhabited enclosed space. It's a life-safety requirement and long overdue measure for modern homes....See Moreschreibdave
7 years agoCharles Ross Homes
7 years agoRoseann S
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agocpartist
7 years agoRoseann S
7 years agoSpringtime Builders
7 years agocpartist
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRoseann S
7 years agoJim Hill
last year
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