Several years ago I was lucky enough to get a shed-your basic barn-type, but I was so thrilled! One of the first things we did was brainstorm on a bench for the inside. I don't have a picture & it's too dark now, but here are a few features we used to make it SOOOOO useful. Height-if you've spent years planting & potting on the kitchen table, your back knows what I mean. The correct height for you makes all the difference! From the ground up: I got 3 plastic storage totes with lids that fit just right lined up side by side on the floor of the shed between the frame of the bench. These hold my potting mix, compost & such-I just slide them out to access them & slide them back. I think this would also work outside if you find them without a concave lid (don't want to breed those skeeters!) Above this is a shelf, not a terribly high space, but perfect for some pots, tools, row cover-you get the idea! On top is the top. It extends 3-4" in front of the frame so that after potting you can just pull your tote forward & sweep the fallen soil back in-easy & tidy! The front edge of the frame being in back of the surface gives you a conveinient place to drive a couple of nails to hold your brush to sweep the dirt with, a dustpan if you need to dispose of the debris, a flyswatter, or anything you'd like to have ready at hand. Since it's inside a shed with exposed studs, we notched out the rear side of the top to fit around the studs to prevent stuff from falling down behind the bench! Another cheap tip-2 screw eyes & a piece of dowel that slides into them makes a dandy paper towel holder! Mine was built of mostly used wood, topped with old rubber conveyor belting & while it is totally functional & not as pretty as some of those you've done, these are features that you could use even on the cuter ones!

I W A N T ~~~~ IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I Love IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think it is just fab !!! I think I might have the ingredients to whip one of those up out in the garage.... the one I was suppose to be cleaning out................. But I did NOT throw away. the springs from the old baby bed......YEA....!!!! & I do have an OLD DOOR>>>> and Some old shutters... THINK I BETTER GO & TRY TO WHIP>>>> ONE OF THOSE COOL POTTING BENCH/ Centers up for ME ! ! ! ME>>>>>>>>>>> ME ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ME !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yea Robo Lady !!!!! Thanks for the pics & the Groovy Idea ! ! ! ! ! You are such a wonderful Creative Artistic Inspiration to me ! ! ! God Bless ! SusieSunshine *** Luv your Blog & Store pages !!!! Thanks again (

Thank you for the pictures. You can't imagine how much better that is than our collective imaginations. You are not overthinking this. You are thinking it through properly. It's just a lot to put down all at once, but I thank you for going to the trouble and not scattering it all over the place. Your soil is poor and thin not because of anything that has been done to it, but because you have not been using organic fertilizer at least once a year. There is a FAQ on organic lawn care in the GW Organic Gardening Forum. Check that out for a basic primer on the new approach to inexpensive organic lawn care. If you want to improve your soil very quickly, go straight organic and go often. This year rather than using corn (too expensive) I have been using alfalfa pellets (rabbit chow). When I wrote the Organic Lawn Care FAQ, corn was selling for $3 per bag. This year is was $15-20 per bag while alfalfa was "only" $12 per bag. Alfalfa is a better fertilizer than corn anyway, so it's a much better deal. I've been on these forums for 10 years. There are two approaches to getting rid of creeping charlie that work. One is to dig up the top six inches of every square inch of the yard and pull out all the roots. Start in one corner and go as far as you can. When you come back, start AGAIN in the SAME CORNER and repeat because you will have missed some. At least the second time it goes much faster. Continue doing and redoing the area until you have nothing but soil. Or the other approach that works is to use non-organic chemicals. I will not address that approach in this forum because this is an organic forum and because the people here are not well versed in the use of the chemicals. If you decide to use something like RoundUp, check into a lawn forum where the members know how to use it. The same goes for bermuda. You can get rid of them, though. Sand is not a problem in the soil. In fact I prefer sand to anything else when I'm leveling or filling in low areas. If that was your jar test I just commented on, you have mostly sand anyway. Good news there is that sand does not compact like other soils do. Bad news is that sand does not develop a structure like other soils do. Tree work will not involve equipment. You will get a crew of men who climb trees like monkeys and drag stuff to the front where the equipment is. Drainage needs to be addressed. You'll need an on site landscaper to fix that for you. For your small lot he might use a tractor with a tool called a box blade or he might just use a group of labor guys. The tractor would be done in 10 minutes. Dog urine is only a problem when the basic soil is not fertilized. If you had adequate fertilizer down, dog urine becomes instant fertilizer. When you don't have the biology right, then that instant fertilizer burns the roots. If you are interested in an alternative turf grass, look into the wheatgrasses that might do well in your area. They are normally considered a prairie grass, but when you sow the seed like a lawn and mow it a few times, it looks like one of the best lawns you'll find. Here is a picture of a wheatgrass lawn in Utah. He's in a high desert area and waters his lawn beginning in late May or June. Mowing is monthly. His is a mix of wheatgrasses, blue grama, and strawberry clover. When seeding you might try doing half the yard at a time. At the bottom of your steps you need a landing. It can be a easy as several inches of shredded tree mulch or it could be more formal like a wooden landing or even stone.

Not to be a total curmudgeon, BUT... 1) It's not your fence. It belongs to your neighbor 100% because he paid for it. That means you can't paint it, grow anything on it, or attach anything to it. 2) You don't have 6 more inches. That belongs to him, too! It's where the posts for his fence are. The fence is built entirely on his property! This isn't like buying a new house and the fence is on the property line: he paid for it and put it on HIS property. The property line appears to be where the wall is. The property line didn't move! (And no, he didn't "abandon" the 6" on her side, he's using it for the fence foundation.)