What to plant in hot/dry climate?
8 years ago
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Pretty in Pink or Apricot: Exceptional Roses for Hot Dry Climate
Comments (40)Thanks so much, Kippy. I look forward to checking these out this weekend. But I'm not so much looking for pink, as apricot, preferably with somewhat flexible stems. Diane and ingrid, Austin touts Evelyn as a 6' climber, and my memory is that several Californians on this forum have claimed 20' long Evelyns. Ingrid, I always check out the photos on HMF, but I never trust that as much as a person-to-person opinion here. Is there an apricotish version of SdlM, or Duchesse de Brabant, or the Tantau rose you just linked on the Austin thread? Also, seeds of the somniferous poppies can be purchased at One Stop Poppy Shoppe and several other smaller seed companies. Burpee has a double peony type called Venus. These poppies are supposed to be out of their element in our climate, but I planted last autumn to take advantage of the cold, and so far all but the darkest color are holding their own and stopping visitors in their tracks. -jannike...See MoreRoses that have performed well in my hot dry climate
Comments (28)fragrancenutter, beautiful bouquet!! I especially like your Memorial Day and Barbara Streisand. If you, and others who grow roses where summers are hot like lavender roses, here's Love Song. I wouldn't care if my roses stopped blooming during the summer; who could blame them, but some just keep blooming when it is really hot. This bloom of Lovesong opened Friday. Yesterday it was 111 degrees F ( the hottest day of the year thus far). This photo was taken this morning. It is not the best bloom for this rose, but under the circumstances..... This is a grafted rose that was in a pot, then planted about a month ago... Love Song ( same plant) when it was not so hot, and established in its pot. Neptune is new for me this year... its blooms are looking gray right now.... Angel Face has about two dozen blooms right now that are smaller, but hold their color. ( I would take a photo, but most of the roses on the plant should have been deadheaded 5 days ago). Lynn...See MoreChilies & tomatoes + Al's 5-1-1 + smart pots in a hot, dry climate
Comments (7)Is this a valid concern? Enough to either switch to standard pots instead, or increase the ratio of calcined products even further? I'd say it's a valid concern, given the evaporative surface is probably in the neighborhood of trebled. I can't tell you what to do because it sort of depends on how much you're willing to water. I suppose it you're willing to water daily if that's necessary, a try at upping the water retention with the added water-retaining products is a good bet. Regardless of what you try- why not also try at least one variant container type with a regular mix (if you use 1 pot) or a super soaker mix if you use the fabric bags. - And just out of curiosity, if the unscreened Turface/DE doesn't affect aeration why do you (seemingly) prefer perlite? Cost- or weight-related? I use perlite because I don't want or need the additional water retention afforded by products like Turface or calcined DE. I don't particularly like to water, but my plants appreciate me making soils that require frequent watering. I have at least 200 containers, so I have to make the watering rounds daily (unless it rains) anyway, because I have so many bonsai pots that have 1/2 cup of soil or less. Some plants only need watering every 5 days or so (like pines & junipers), but the little guys demand close attention. That's not the soil's fault - it's related almost entirely to my choices that limit soil volume. Should I water based on the volume of the media with 5-1-1, or should I water based on the size of the plant? Both of those considerations are part of what you use to decide when to water. A well made 5:1:1 is quite forgiving when it comes to the potential for over-watering, so common sense usually carries the day. After a planting is established, you might wait for a weekend when you know you can watch a plant carefully. Water on Wednesday or Thursday, then watch carefully for the first sign of wilt to give you a better idea of where the limits are. It won't take long before you'll be factoring light levels, wind, humidity ..... as a matter of course into your determination of when to water - it'll become almost reflexive. I hardly even think about what I'm doing as I water - usually thinking about something else. If you're in doubt about whether or not the plant will be ok until your next opportunity to water ..... you can usually water w/o ill effects because of the nature of the soil you're using. - Would you recommend the seedlings in an intermediate pot before they go into their final 15gal homes? Personally, I wouldn't bother, but I WOULD be mindful of making sure I keep the soil moist where I think the roots are. IOW, if all the roots are in the top 3" of soil, you better water so the top 3" is moist enough to satisfy water demands. As noted, if you run into this issue at transplant time, you can set the fabric bags on the ground (to take advantage of the earth's wicking action, or set things up so an actual wick is keeping the lower part of the container from staying soggy - say if you have to water daily immediately after transplanting. Don't worry about asking questions. That's what drives the forums. If I can't answer, there are a lot of smart folk here who can help. Once I'm a part of as thread I usually follow it until it fades away, so if you're getting replies from others (say on this thread) and I seem to have gone missing, it's just that I agree with what's being said & there's no need for me to add anything to 'their' able advice. If I think you're not getting good info, I usually offer some sort of input that will make whoever's following the thread view what was said in a light that shows it might not hold up to more than casual scrutiny. With the number of messages I get from people who actually make a point of saying they are totally confused by conflicting information, it's probably as GOOD thing for everyone if we make it more of a point to hold each other's feet to the fire so people can rely on what's being presented as good advice. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. Thanks for the kind words, BTW. Al...See MoreOT: perennials in hot, dry climate? Your opinions ,please!
Comments (33)I'm definitely going to try gauras; they look beautiful. But again, about lithodoras: Nik,fduk says it's not a true acid lover, and my soil isn't that alkaline; if it was, wouldn't I have more chlorosis issues? People say that Reine des Violettes is prone to chlorosis in alkaline soil; mine have never had it. I seem to have an impression that Excellenz Von Schubert sometimes shows mild cases of it, but my plants are all very young. What about the drainage issue; what do you think of that? the thing about the creeping thyme failing in the actual garden, but being happy elsewhere? I'm curious to try this plant again,messing with the soil a bit. I do see that on the Perennials forum, somone says that it's easier to alkalinize one's soil than it is to acidify it,but maybe soil ph isn't what the problem was......See MoreRelated Professionals
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