Thank you very much for your help. Yes, you are right. It does sound like that he wired the fan to the master bedroom circuit and now moved the whole mess to the load side of GFI. I don't think he'll come back and redo the work. I waited him for more than 15 days before he came back and wired the fan switch to the load side of GFI. His expression told me he was very unhappy to come back and do the work. Although I paid him $1000 just for the labor of installing one fan and replacing another fan, material fees are separate. And no drywall repairment at all. I'll spend another $1400 for repairment of the drywall cut by the HVAC contractor for the fan installation and replacement. The circuit on the main panel that controls master bathroom also controls master bedroom, hallway, hallway bathroom, and another bedroom. So I think instead of putting a GFCI breaker on the main panel, it's better to wire the fan switch to the load side of GFI. But I did not expect it also affects the electricity in the master bedroom. I may have another electrician to fix it in the future after the drywall is repaired. Is it a big electric job? Thank you veru much for your recommendation of a good book. I'll buy and read it.

"As I understand it, all receptacles should have AFCI protection." Not quite right. With certain exceptions, all 15- and 20-amp circuits serving designated living areas now require AFCI protection. That's circuits, not receptacles. "I am assuming that this applies only to recpectacles where it is likely that an extension cord might be used, so am I correct in thinking that lighting circuits and unfinished basement circuits do not require AFCI?" While some of the impetus for adopting AFCI requirements had to do with the recognition that lamp cords and extension cords are prone to faults causing arcing, the requirement is in no way limited to areas where extension cords are likely to be used or, for that matter, to receptacles. First mentioned in the 1999 Code version as pertaining to bedroom receptacles, AFCI protection of dwelling unit bedroom outlets was ensconced in the 2002 Code. (Keep in mind that the term "outlets" includes not only receptacles, but lighting fixtures, smoke alarms and other points that electricity is used.) The 2008 code extended coverage to habitable living areas such as living rooms, dining rooms, dens and so forth. As for basements, since an unfinished basement is not a living area and has an unfinished floor where damp conditions are more likely, it is GFCIs, not AFCIs, that are appropriate for receptacles. "Am I also correct in thinking that outlets that require GFCI should also have AFCI (e.g. kitchen counter outlets)? If so, is the only option to use an AFCI breaker and GFCI receptacles, or is there some combination breaker available, and do AFCI recptacles exist?" Not correct. Requirements for GFCI and AFCI protection are independent. Some receptacles require neither. Some require both. Some require one but not the other. A true combination AFCI/GFCI at a reasonable price seems to be on everyone's wishlist these days. I'm all but sure they'll be commonplace sometime in the future. Sigh. [Don't confuse this with the terminology applied to newer "combination" AFCIs -- meaning that they detect for parallel and serial arcing. While they are "combination" devices in that sense, they will not trip at the same low-current/short interval specifications met by GFCIs. To oversimplify, AFCIs protect buildings against fires; GFCIs protect people against injury or electrocution.] So do AFCI receptacles exist? Well, there's a good bit of history behind the issue. In about the late 90's, there were a couple of abortive attempts at making AFCI receptacles -- back when the code mentioned only bedroom receptacles. I'm not positive that they've all been pulled from the market, but I suspect they have. I haven't seen them for sale in a long time. Chief among the problems with AFCI receptacles is that they run headlong into the code requirement for circuit-level (not receptacle-level) arc-fault protection. Thus, if you were to install one in, say, a bedroom, it still wouldn't meet code because the portion of the circuit in the bedroom leading into the receptacle still wouldn't be protected. There remains some old weasel-wording in the code that would appear to allow AFCI receptacle protection upstream of the area requiring protection. That is, an AFCI receptacle placed right next to the breaker panel that feeds and protects a circuit heading for a bedroom may meet code requirements (provided that a couple of other T's are crossed and I's dotted). But as a practical matter, AFCI receptacles are not the solution you're looking for.

Often when planning a DIY project, careful consideration is given to the tools, equipment, and supplies required, as well as the best route to take to achieve a certain goal. However, just as much thought should be put into safe working practices. This is particularly true when working with and around the home's electrical system. Regardless of the type of project, safe working practices are essential for everyone to be able to enjoy the fruits of your labors. Keep in mind that no list of safe practices is all-inclusive as every project can present its own, unique, hazards. While using the following list as a starting point, take the time to evaluate the project and identify any other potential hazards that may affect you or others in the area. Also, if unexpected conditions arise or if you are unsure how to proceed, take a moment to step back and re-evaluate the situation. Either take the time to find the right answers or call someone qualified to help you. ------------------------------------- Treat all circuits like they are hot until you can prove otherwise. Always turn off the electricity when you work on a circuit or device. Buy a reliable device to test for voltage. Use it on a known hot circuit to make sure it is functioning properly before you begin work. Test after you turn the circuit off, test again before touching any wires or device parts, and test again if you leave the area for a few minutes. After your voltage test tells you wires - all wires, not just 'hots' - are dead, try shorting them to ground with a big screwdriver. Now you can touch. If you must have the electricity on to check something after you remove it from a box or enclosure, turn the electricity off while you remove it. If you aren't in sight of the disconnect for the circuit you are working on, you should notify everyone in the area of your intentions before beginning work. Also, a lock should be applied to the breaker or panel cover after you have de-energized the circuit. If this is not possible, you should at least "tag it" so that others will not re-energize the circuit you are working on. Some suggestions include a large explanatory sign on the panel cover and breaker, as well as putting a piece of red tape across the breaker in the OFF position. Wear rubber soled shoes when working around electricity. Additional protection can be had with ceramic-toed (not steel) boots and standing on a rubber "welcome mat". If you aren't using one of your hands for something while testing or working on a circuit, the best place for it is in your pocket. As much as you can, when working around electricity, stay away from things that can ground you, such as metal pipes, sinks, and water. GFCI's (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) should not be bypassed or removed any time they are installed on power tools, portable appliances, and other equipment. Removing these devices places the user and possibly others at the risk of injury or death. Also, when using electrical equipment outdoors or in wet locations, power should be obtained from a GFCI protected receptacle. If one is not available, an inline cord mounted GFCI unit should be used. Work alert! When you are tired you make mistakes. If you are tired, rest. Coffee and caffeine are not substitutes. If it seems too much trouble to tuck in your shirt just now, you are probably too tired to work safely. Work neatly. Keep your clothes tucked in. Keep track of your tools. Keep your work area around your feet clear of tools and trash. Demand that others do not clutter your space. Do neat work and later it will be easier to test and track. Have a buddy system. Do not work in an attic or other confined, twisty space without someone working with you who can call for help. Even if working in a comfortable, upright situation, make sure that someone always knows where you are. Wear eye protection. Especially when using power tools, striking tools, and working around energized equipment. Work safely on ladders by not overextending yourself. The adage "keep your belt buckle between the ladder rails" is a good one to follow. Have adequate lighting. Whether it is flashlights or worklights and extension cords, make sure you have everything on hand before you begin working. Inspect your tools and equipment before use. You should always check electrical devices, tools, cords and ladders for signs of defects or damage before using them. ------------------------ A big Thank You to ItsUncleBill for getting this list started and also to Harmon_Killebrew, Sangan, Measure_twice, and Keast for their help.

Ron, I want to thank you again for all your help. It is really appreciated. With your help, this is what I have decided on for my project. I will tap into my dining room 20A outlet through my stucco wall. I will run a 10/2 Waterproof Romex wire to an outdoor metal weatherproof outlet box. I will then run off of the exterior outlet box to my backyard BBQ grill, which is approximately 100 ft away. There will be two separate outlet locations back there. One for my two pond pumps, and the other outlet will be for the grill area (I may add a few more outlets at the grill area). It will all be run in 3/4" PVC conduit, and I'll use THHN/THWN wet rated #10 wire. The conduit will be buried 18" underground. I believe that is code for PVC conduit in my area. I'll install separate GFCI outlets in each box. The reason I'm doing them all as GFCI instead of only one of them, is this way I don't have the entire outdoor circuit go dead on me if only one of them trips the GFCI. I figure isolating them is a safer bet. My understanding is I can just pigtail connect each outlet inside its box rather than using the inlet and outlet posts on the GFCI outlet. But correct me if I'm wrong here. As to the questions you had regarding other appliances on that circuit. There is nothing else on the circuit, and we aren't even currently using those outlets for anything. There is a total of 3 outlets on that circuit, and none of them are used.