If you want timeless, then do white for your fixtures and tile and forgo the blue and brown except in the paint and accessories. Maybe do the vanity in the chocolate, but with a white vanity top and sink. 4K isn't a lot to spend on a bath, even if you are DIY on the labor. The vanities will cost you around $1500-$2500 if you do the more custom double vanity with the drawer base in the middle, and that imprisons you to a more expensive custom counter as well. You just went over budget, and you've only got as far as the vanities. Despite the expense of redoing the plumbing, I think you can stretch the budget further by having 24" individual vanities that you can find as stock at one of the box stores and individual mirrors above them. You can probably do that for $1000, including the tops. FOr the tub, to be able to use it as a shower, it needs to have an integral tile flange on it to seal out moisture infiltration from behind your walls. You'll need to tear out the current tile to ascertain if it has that. If it doesn't then replacing it with a nice, slightly deeper soaking tub can be done for around $400. If you want a jetted tub, American Standard sells a $699 one at HD with a lifetime warranty and the new system that angles the internal jets downward so that all the water drains out when you empty the tub. That keeps it from sitting there getting yucky. It's a great buy, and can be used as a shower too. The real necessary expense is updating the tub faucet with a tub/shower valve that contains the new anti scald technology. A thermostatic valve is the better but more expensive choice here. Classic subway tile mixed with some classic 4x4 and 6x6 for the shower walls would let you do an interesting tone on tone pattern but not break the bank. White tile for the floor may seem "boring" but it lets you use any color accessories that you want to liven it up. And, using the layout to add pizazz just like the shower will work to add interest also. Paint the walls a pretty silvery blue and put in chocolate and blue towels and your vision is complete--and on budget!

I have an update and would love to get some feedback before I order the final accessories. (Demo begins one week from today!) I got a quote for replacing the vanity with white cabinetry complete with a sitting area, plus hardwiring of sconces. The costs all added up to too much for me, so I'm sticking with my vanity and overhead lighting location. I feel great about my choices for tile, bath tub, paint, and fixtures. My worry is that all the little accessory details won't quite work together, diminishing the beauty of the bathroom as a whole. I need to buy the accessories soon; here's what I have in mind. With overhead lighting instead of sconces, I prefer one large mirror. The mirror is by Pottery Barn, a wooden frame with gold gilt, 72" x 36". Perfect size for the space, very very very hard to find. This is technically a floor-length mirror, so I hope it can be mounted horizontally! PB customer service was useless when asked. The lights are also PB, polished nickel. For practical reasons, I ruled out any overhead lights that take type B bulbs (too dim) and have fabric shades (too hard to clean). As a big plus, these are on sale for $170 each. Do they go with the mirror and the rest of the room? Chandelier is PB, 18" diameter, antique brass, UL-listed. This will be over the tub on a dimmer. It was hard to find a chandy that's not too big, ornate, and/or expensive. Knobs and pulls are glass and polished nickel from Restoration Hardware. Towel ring, TP roll, and hook are Ballard Design in polished nickel. Fabric for the roman shade is gray on cream linen. Shower bench is Signature Hardware in teak. I hope this will help tie in the wood of the vanity with the other side of the room. Towel warmer is polished stainless steel (no nickel option) from Signature Hardware. If anything doesn't quite mesh or looks wrong, I would love to hear, as well as any suggestions for alternatives!

Thanks, SJ. Yellow has never been one of my favorite colors and there is a lot of it on the wall. I was considering the multi-yellow though, but now that I've learned it's been discontinued, I think I will go with the light blue. Thanks for the mock ups, ilikefriday!

The tile done in the second picture of my first post is actually 6 x 36 wood look porcelain tile ( a different company though). It is laid the same way as mine. It is was done by the main tiler and looks beautiful. It is 1/8 grout lines no lippage at all! I would post a picture of it but it is all covered up right now. I was harsh about the second guy helping him because he had already cut a lot of corners with other things. He wasted a lot of tile getting cuts wrong - which the other contractors themselves were complaining about and bringing some to my attention. Some really bad cuts I noticed he tried to pressure me in to accepting - when I almost caved another one came to me and confirmed it was not good. He basically tiled my kitchen and left the molding on the wall. On top of that all the cuts against the molding were jagged. Like one part would up against the molding and the farthest was .5 to an inch. When I asked what would happen with it he was just answered that it would all be filled in with grout. Dark grout that would make it stand out even more. EDIT :: Here is the link to her tile: https://www.lowes.com/pd/CERAMICAS-TESANY-Tahoe-Gray-Wood-Look-Porcelain-Floor-and-Wall-Tile-Common-6-in-x-36-in-Actual-5-82-in-x-35-29-in/1000379225 Maybe her tile - despite being larger, allows it. If that's the case, I can wrap this around my head and get over it. However, if hers is similar to mine and the good tiler is able to do it without lippage in that layout with smaller grout line - I would like to go for it. EDIT:: Is this another possible solution. When they relay it Would relaying it to overlap in thirds instead of 1/2 help. I am not to particular about that if it will help me get the smaller grout lines.