Your "repair" is unlikely to hold.

You might like to review this info:Tree recovery for homeowners

https://www.arborday.org/media/stormrecovery/for-homeowners.cfm

By not speaking their language I find it difficult to understand well the information offered by some pages. I am sorry.

Why do you think the tree will not recover? Maybe because the repair is poorly done? Or the reason is by the thickness of the branch that has separated?

I, on the other hand, believe that the branch has been firmly united. Another issue is that Acacia dealbata are very little trees (those in my garden are already more than 30 years). They grow very quickly and their wood is very soft.

I came to live in this place three years ago but the care that these trees received previously were practically none. They should have been pruned and not allowed to grow so long branches.

The soft wood, the long branches and that the tree is old is what along with the strong wind has originated the break. There has been no harm in any other tree in the garden.

Probably for these reasons that I have commented this tree, although it would not have suffered this damage, would have died in not many years. Other Acacia dealbata from my garden have already died. Through the wounds it is very possible that pathogens and even insects enter. This is why it is very dangerous for trees to be injured.

But I do not think it's the repair that has been done that causes the damage. How would you have repaired

wonder if you harmed the cambian layer where the straps were used for closing the wound ... bark loss in the next few years will answer that ....

unlike a human bone.. interior wood does not 'heal'.... even if the bark encapsulates the wound... it will never be stronger than the screws used ...

i was surprised you did not use bolts ...

personally i would never have recommended this ... but am curious of how it all ends up working out .... try to keep us posted over the years ... please ...

ken

Our idea is to change the place of the straps slightly, precisely so that they do not damage the bark in the long run.

Undoubtedly, when one or two years pass, even if these straps were not moved, it would be necessary to loosen them slightly to allow the branch to thicken.

I would like to know how else you would have acted. New ideas are always welcomed.

We could not think of another way to join the two parts of the branches. If it is not tying (with whatever system) what form could have been made? Any binding system would put pressure on the bark. Or at least I do not know another system ... I would appreciate any idea other than the option we have chosen.

Taping will not be sufficient to firmly "unite" the branch split. In this situation, bolting would have been the preferred method. There is also a time limit involved - the faster this is accomplished, the more readily the damaged portions will begin to meld and compartmentalize and scar over the wound. Generally, this is within a 24-48 hour maximum period. Beyond this period the compartmentalization and scarring has already begun on the open surfaces and the wound will not scar over.

With smaller branches or splits that occur at something other than a joint or branch union, pruning to remove the exterior portion of the branch is the preferred method. I would only use tape to close cracks in branches. It offers no structural support and that limb will always be vulnerable to additional damage.

I do not know if it's translator's problem. Not speaking English I think I have many difficulties to understand what you say and also to make me understand.

Let's see, if you have read (with the help of the translator at the top of the article) the blog post will check the following:

* Structural support has been established: a wooden post which, after finishing the work, was put back under the end of the branch (which was left after very pruning)

* If the branch was pruned in large part because it weighed too much and we thought that it would exert too much pressure preventing a good cicatrization. In fact, that branch has been cut short. Only a pair of secondary twigs burst out of it without weight.

* The repair was performed the day after the accident occurred.

Perhaps it is that you only look at this photograph and may not explain the whole process that was done. In the blog is the whole process detailed, so I put it on the link so that you could read in detail all the steps that we follow.

I also posted an album in my profile that you can open. There are many more pictures of the whole process.

Acacia dealbata is such a weak-wooded and fast growing tree that I honestly think I would have just cut the damaged branch off. It's almost like a giant perennial in its softness. The tree clearly needs pruning anyway so this could be an enforced start.

That said, I have seen taping work on a Sorbus aucuparia which was completely snapped through the trunk when young. It was splinted and taped. However, it has never grown as well as the other three in the group. Also, being a small species the repair is not under such weight pressure as on a larger tree. I hope your repair works out. Is your tree in flower? They are around here.

i would have properly pruned below the break or at the soil level .... or removed it in its entirety ...

please.. do not leave hardware in a tree .. if you should ever leave the property .... so as to not harm a future owner with a chainsaw ...

ken