If you did not have to have it out immediately, I would let it rot out. It only takes a year or two and there are ways to speed that up. I agree with the Mattock with a wide blade. Because of its design you can take out roots quite easily, in a couple of hours. On new roots I use an axe to splinter them and and mattock to remove the chunks. I don't know how any one can plant and maintain a yard with out a mattock. We live in eastern Carolina and have clay with about 10%? quartz rocks. It is the only way to dig holes.

You may want to try posting over on the Woodworking forum. I think they'd be able to suggest more options.......... Here is a link that might be useful: Woodworking

If you look at the MSDS for Olympic Maximum Stain + Sealer, you will see it's Stoddard Solvent : 40-70% - this is just paint thinner that will evaporate away, contributing nothing to the final finish Linseed oil : 7-13% OK, but provides virtually no protection and no moisture exclusion Paraffin waxes and hydrocarbon waxes 1-5% Likewise, little to no protection With knotty pine, you always risk the resins in the knots and wood from affecting the color and result of the final finish. For example, if you're going to "whitewash" it, the knots will telegraph through in a few years. If I wanted a clear film finish, this is what I would do: * Light overall sanding to remove the weathering. If you don't have one, it would be worthwhile to buy or rent a decent random orbit sander. * When this is done, rag on a bit of mineral spirits over a sample area. This will give you a preview of what the final effect will be without any stain. You should wipe the whole ceiling with a rag dampened in MS to get off the sanding dust. * I would avoid a stain as pine is _very_ difficult to stain without blotching. If you must, use a gel stain. I also think pine looks best natural, so I wouldn't stain. * [optional] Wipe on a coat of boiled linseed oil, wipe off all the excess. Let it cure for a week. This brings out some of the figure in the wood. * Apply a dewaxed shellac such as Zinsser's Seal Coat. This will seal in the knot's resins and provide great depth and chatoyance to the pine. Let dry at least 30 minutes (not a problem as the first end will be done by the time you finish). * Do a light scuff sanding with P320 or P400 sandpaper (I like 3M's 216U, AKA "Sandblaster") to knock off any raised grain. Do not use steel wool. You may use Scotch-Brite maroon or light gray pads. * Apply two coats of deep base exterior paint per instructions in the link. LIGHT COATS. Here is a link that might be useful: Paint on a clear finish

So much great advice (and no judgement - thank you!) — I wanted to update, we’ve confirmed it’s only shellac! Thankfully, and we’ll be working on removing as much as possible tomorrow, with heat off and windows open. Pics below, including my husband cleaning his mess lol. Great tips on the floor - you’re points are right on, and given the work the walls will be I’d like an easier alternative for the floors for sure. The left window is actually a door that a previous owner caulked shut, but we’re planning to open and make functional again. Otherwise there isn’t much room for anything, but it would be ideal to move the sink elsewhere to have more wiggle room in the “bathroom”. We did take a quick look today at more narrow utility sink/ vanity combos, and while not perfect should be an improvement. At this point it feels that is still quite far in the future, but hopeful the shellac removal is quicker than I anticipate. Once again THANK YOU, I have been so delighted to find such a knowledgeable (and patient) community!!!