Your weather sounds similar to mine. In winter, I have a cool garden with lots of lettuce, arugula, collards, chard, beets, carrots. Peas and favas. For winter herbs I have cilantro,dill and parsley. Then,I always have oregano, rosemary and mint if it survives the summer. I sometimes grow mint as an annual, replanting each fall. You can also start an asparagus bed and artichokes right now. Cardoons, if you like them. Strawberries, since your summers are likely quite hot. In the spring your warm stuff like eggplants, peppers,tomatoes,corn,okra and amaranth and melons can be planted. You may be able to find a vegetable planting calendar for your area by searching google. That is the most helpful resource for Arizona that I've found. If your summers get up to 115F like mine do you may be able to use an Arizona calendar for Maricopa county and just reverse the months for down under. For instructions on each type of plant, just google. Most extension agencies in the US have information papers online that you can read. I always do this when trying a new veggie. I just googled " planting corn" a week ago to refresh my memory.

Where in the United states are you? That you have planted some things already indicates somplace south or southwest. Being an organic grower means your soil has ample quantities of organic matter to feed the Soil Food Web which feeds the plants you are growing. So you have some but do you have enough? You want 6 to 8 percent organic matter in your soil. These simple soil tests can help you determine that, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Then knowing your soils pH and how much Phosphorus, Potash, Calcium, Magnesium, etc. might also be of some help. Nitrogen is very dependant on soil temperature, the activiy of the Soil Food Web, for availability and in a good organic soil is of less concern then it would be in soils with kess than adequate levels of organic matter.

Hi jrock, I see you are in Northwest Iowa. Are you close to Sioux City or Sioux Falls. Always love to hear from someone in my area since it seems more gardening folks are from the warmer zones who write. I had two brugs about the same size as yours which I overwinter in a small green house, but think I totally killed them by spraying them with an insecticidal soap which I use on my many hibiscus to kill the white flies. Have had the hibiscus for over 15 years and though they invite the flies, the soap doesn't seem to affect them. Think my brugs are dead though. Really sad!! Mary

What several have already said about digging up the plants in fall, removing the weed fabric, and adding soil/amendments as needed ... after correcting the drainage issue if necessary. Did water pool there before? If so, might there be compacted soil or a clay hardpan? You'll have to break through this to improve drainage. Also, since you're adding soil on the other side of the walk, make sure you're not going to be directing water towards your house. Fall is actually the best time to plant. The air is cooler, the sun's rays weaker, putting less demand on the plants, but the soil is still warm, so encourages root growth. With very few exceptions, plants (whether annuals, perennials, shrubs, vines, trees ... whatever) should always be planted at the same depth at which they had been growing. Their roots have developed at the proper depth to provide the water, oxygen and nutrients the plant needs. Changing the soil level will, at best, stress the plant, at worst, kill it. (Tomatoes are one notable exception. Since they have an abundance of adventitious buds in their stems that will produce roots, you can bury a goodly portion of the stem when planting, to encourage a larger root system.)