Need design help around shower - how to tie in finish

7 years ago

Here's the photos - https://postimg.org/gallery/luuwxw2m/

Essentially it's a small bathroom, 7x7 roughly. It's part of my project to finish my attic space and thus the shower backs into a knee wall (sloped ceiling). Note that the pan doesn't extend all the way to the knee wall, and thus we had to frame in slightly behind the pan.

Getting toward the end, and my contractor is asking my opinion on how I want to finish the area next to the shower. Note, there is plumbing behind all of those walls so the geometry is 'set', changing that is not an option.

As you can see from the photos there is an area between the sink/vanity and the tiled shower that will be wallboard. I am tiling the entire shower, ceiling and all, with subway tiles. I am going to do a row of bullnose tiles along the perimeter of the shower at the edge of the shower pan (will eventually have a frameless glass door put in). I am also doing 42" of wainscoting around the bathroom.

The 'knee wall' side of the shower pan is easy, tile ends in a bullnose and the wallboard / wainscoting begins. At the other end is trickier (again, see photos).

Should I continue the wainscoting between the sink and shower, all the way to the tile?

It seems like the tile will be 'recessed' vs both the wainscoting and finished plaster, meaning I won't get a good 'finished edge'. Any advice here?

My contractor doesn't seem to have a clear plan on handling that particular spot so ideally I can bring some ideas to him. Appreciate any and all advice!

Thanks

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Comments (5)

PRO
Creative Tile Eastern CT
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Wrap the tile around the valve wall to the ceiling then drop to wainscot height at vanity. Use the same detail on opposite side by wrapping the corner. Is that a gap in your photo's between the shower base & wall board? Is there a flange on the base? Cement board is not waterproof. It should also be fastened every 8". What waterproofing will be used? I have serious concerns judging from your photo's
thewilked
Original Author
7 years ago
Thanks for the reply. I like that idea of tiling around that valve wall.

The Kohler does have flanges, 3 of them, per their install file they advise this

http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f80/47350d1331510691-liner-durock-placement-showerpan-diagram.jpg

So you have the pan set on the subfloor, with the cement backerboard down over the flange. He plans to add a good line of silicone around that bottom board/flange seam to close it, and thinset / tile it all.

Does that make sense? I also heard of this waterproofer RedGard, is that advisable to add? He says he has never used it before
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thewilked
Original Author
7 years ago
I just talked it all through with him.

Looks like we are going to match 'depth' of the two walls (head and foot) on each side of the shower pan so that they are parallel. Will put a vertical 'border' layer of tile all the way up and around, bullnose tiles with finish side out. We will then add a vertical row of horizontal tile (similar to photo above by Creative Tile), and do the same on the small wall face next to the sink. Wainscot will stop at that corner behind the sink, where wainscot meets tile.

I did some googling, think I will head to the Depot and get a gallon of that RedGard. At a minimum doesn't look like it will hurt, and there is a definite opinion out there that adding a waterproof layer is the right way to do it.
PRO
Mint tile Minneapolis
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
Look at the clean work by Creative Tile eastern CT wow...

You do need either A topical waterproofing such as redg&%$#( applied properly ) or you need A Poly or 15#felt moisture barrier behind cement board (and it should lap over the Pans flange) I usually lap the poly and silicone it to the flange after shimming and prior to backer board, if i use redg%$#@ (Hydroban !) i will tie it into the pan, and silicone the pan to tile change in plane as well - best
PRO
Creative Tile Eastern CT
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
The cement board fastened 8" requires all board edges to be reinforced with alkali resistant mesh and embedded in thinset. Now you can apply liquid or sheet membrane waterproofing. If sheet membranes are selected you can use it to substitute mesh tape. To simplify. You should be able to shower without any tile installed. The tile is only cosmetic. Which ever product is selected follow the manufacturers instructions. They all have a tech support line and you should use it. Your present contractor does not have the knowledge to be installing showers if he believes the cement board alone is waterproof. Red Guard, Laticrete hydraban are usually readily available liquid applied systems. I was typing and was not aware of Tundra's post.
thewilked thanked Creative Tile Eastern CT

Need design help around shower - how to tie in finish

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Need design help around shower - how to tie in finish

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Creative Tile Eastern CT

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