Where to get a goose in New Jersey?
9 years ago
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Help me save a dieing YEW in New Jersey
Comments (4)I'm not sure there is anything you can do. If the root system has been compromised by poor drainage/gutter problem it is just a matter of time whether the plant will survive or fail completely. If you are convinced the water/drainage issue has been resolved, I'd play a bit of a waiting game to see how the plant will respond - it may come back or it may not. If not, it will give you an opportunity to select something else for that location, perhaps with a bit more character than a lump of green yew. As to removing the rocks, that is not necessary. They do not prevent the soil from "breathing", in fact rocks are very commonly used as a mulch in many areas. Personally, I would prefer an organic mulch, but rocks can be effective as well in specific situations. I'd also be a bit leery about how much damage vine weevils could do to a 30 y.o. established shrub. The adults only do cosmetic damage and this should be easily visible if this is the case. The larvae, if present in high enough numbers, can damage feeder roots, but on an established plant such as this, the roots are typically regenerated faster than the larvae can remove. It is HIGHLY unusual for a mature, established plant to fall prey to vine weevils. There is a possibility that the combination of both bad drainage or standing water AND weevils have gotten your yew where it is today, but I'd put my money on the drainage problem first....See MorePlanting Dublin Bay New Jersey Southern Monmouth County 6b?
Comments (7)That DB is grafted on Dr. Huey. I don't recommend amending the hole except for adding the superphosphate (put it in the hole then cover with soil, then the plant). I usually amend the entire bed in the fall, but you don't say if your soil is sandy and needs the amendments. You want to avoid what we call the "bathtub effect" where the hole retains too much water and it doesn't drain out properly. Here we may or may not have that problem because of the sandy soil (in some cases). Make sure the union is 2" below the soil. Don't "tamp". Backfill and use water to fill in the holes. Use your hands to press in the soil to make sure there are no air pockets. But you don't want to compress the soil around the roots. Mulch the soil, but keep the mulch away from the canes. Water after you plant, then monitor the soil. You shouldn't have to water daily, especially since we are due for more rain this week (thu - sat). You'll probably get in two applications of Rose-tone, July and August, then stop (no fertilizing after August). Once you see new growth after planting, you can try a weak (1/4 - 1/2 strength) solution of fish emulsion once a week until you start the Rose-tone. You're going to need a regular fungicide treatment for DB....See Morebuying a fig tree in southern new jersey
Comments (5)I visited South Philadelphia, the old Italian neighborhood of the city. I have a few cousins that live there. So many people had fig trees growing in their small but usable yards. Many are willing to help out and even know most of the varieties. I often walk up introduce myself ( Either in Italian or English ) and talk about the tree. Usually there is such an interesting history behind the persons tree, usually coming over in someones pocket or the such from the old country. Many times they are willing to share some cuttings or a rooted tree with you. In a few hours, my brother came out of the neighborhood with specimens of 7 trees. All different, mostly ITalian varieties. Thats fun. We always offered a few bucks for the cuttings, but they just wave and say don't worry about it. We didn't want to not at least pay them, but most of the time, they just love to talk about their tree and why theirs is better than the neighbors. Ciao...See More2007 Main Crop getting ripe in New Jersey
Comments (10)Hi Herman, thanks for the photos and report. Here's how it stands in my garden at the moment: My Excel fig is doing very well this year. It was the first fig variety that I got via the GW (thanks, Leon!) It's not located in the best spot in my back yard, but has been a vigorous grower. The last two years it gave me only one or two figs, but this year it is loaded. Previously, the fruit ripened in September, but picked my first one this year around the beginning of this month (August), had one yesterday. The bulk will be ripening soon. The green fruits with pale pulp are large (by my standards) and sweet; the fig flavor is good. I'd rate it a solid B/B+. I still prefer the dark figs, but this one is a keeper. My Takoma Violet (local fig) began ripening it's fruit at the beginning of the month, which is similar to last year. It produces small to medium violet figs with red pulp, and rich flavor. The distinctive features that I've noticed about this fig is that it starts ripening early, and continues over a long period; it's also seems to be hardy variety. The dark violet/black 'Noire de Carombe' (not sure of ID) has long finished its brebas, and the fall figs are just beginning to color up. Last year they were already to eat by now, so it's a little behind. This is my favorite. Unfortunately it's in the front yard next to the sidewalk, so I not only have to fight the squirrels, but the two legged pests too. The Paradiso (a green fig) is not showing any movement yet towards ripening....See More- 9 years ago
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