Apple. First, your room is lovely and quite bright. You should have taken a closeup pic of your Snake Plant. It's hard determining the problem from that distance. From what you said, if leaves are easily pulled from the soil, your Snake 'probably' has root rot. Whatever, do not move further away from light. Although Snake's are considered low light, or as some people assume, shade plants, Snake Plants need some light to thrive and grow. Do you keep blinds closed all day? I wouldn't toss in the trash and buy another. Try saving the Snake you have. I agree it's a good idea to remove your Snake from soil, check and clip dead roots, then add fresh, well-draining mix. Water, then place in a little brighter location. Keeping the blinds opened will improve light. Afterwards, if roots are alive, and you plan on using the same container, clean thoroughly. Watering plants shouldn't be done by schedule. My Snakes are watered when soil is dry to the touch. All are directly in front of windows. East is perfect. About the plant on the other side of the room, (Euphorbia) it needs a lot more sun than it's getting. West or South. Please take a closeup of your Snake Plant and soil. Toni

Hello again thanks for the help so far have had another talk with my mum and she says she bought it from a garden centre in cyprus and the name she was given for it was pakisatnie night. there is a bit of an argumant going on as mum says it was like a fern and the leaves where what opened at night, which is where the scent came from dad is insisting it was fern like but had flowers. she really wants to find out its proper name so she can buy one. it has a very intense perfume scent. i hope this information helps a bit more thank you to evryone whos come up with suggestions so far.

Thanks! It makes me feel better that I'm not alone! I was finally able to make some time and do some plant rearranging. I found my sans a nice window spot--prime plant real estate, if I may say so! Hopefully a little extra sun will help in its recovery. (And keep it out of the way so we can avoid any more accidents!)

I knew in my heart I should have just used the gritty mix. I've read about people killing their plants in it because they're not used to working with it. They have trouble deciding when to water again. I don't blame them for being confused, the top gritty mix was dry the next day. I feel like i would be watering the plant every 5 days in it and it might be too much. The fix for not knowing when to water is easy. Use a "tell". More about that below. Also, if the gritty mix you're using is screened correctly, you should be able to water things in it before the plant actually needs water with no harm - within reason. You can't water a plant that wants to be dry all winter and not expect problems, but the gritty mix I use is so forgiving I can water what succulents I grow on pretty much the same schedule (that's the dreaded SCHEDULE that plants should never be watered on). I've been watering on a schedule with the gritty mix for more than 20 years with no losses to root rot or vascular wilt diseases. Many people with a lot of healthy plants recommend cactus potting mix with regular potting mix 50/50. Does that work better than adding gritty mix to potting mix? I've seen people do half cactus mix to half pumice or perlite. I felt like what I was doing was similar. I saw one man on youtube surrounded by plants re-pot his sans in 1 part peat, 1 part perlite, 1 part sand. I feel like sand can cause impaction but I've read these plants grow in desert climates naturally. I felt like I saw/read so many different ways to pot a plant. For every 10,000 hobby growers, there are probably 1 or 2 that know what they're talking about. Most of the others find something that works better than what they were using previosly and losing plants. and stick with it. Mixing regular potting mix with cactus potting mix is a crap shoot because what's on the label says nothing about what's in the bag. You can be sure though that that mix will will have very close to the very same physical properties of the lesser (harder to grow in) of the 2 soils. You cannot increase aeration or drainage appreciably by mixing together water retentive ingredients. It also makes no sense to mix anything fine into the gritty mix. You can start with a quart of gritty mix, add a cup of peat or potting soil to it, and you end up with a poorly aerated mix you won't appreciate. You shouldn't think in terms of half and half of any ingredients if one of those ingredients is fine (peat, coir, compost, sand, ...) In most cases the fine component of a mix will be peat. The most common coarse component is pine bark. the peat should be from 10 to no more than 20% of the mix. If it's more than that, ALL the spaces between the park particles get filled with peat and your mix will have lower o/a porosity than growing in peat only, and that would make a poor soil indeed. How water behaves where plants naturally occur is so vastly different than how it behaves in pots, it would only very rarely make sense to even consider replicating the soil a given plant is growing in in situ. If growing in the ground is a 1, and hydroponics is !), growing in pots is a 7 or 8. different worlds - different rules. Soils in pots are all about structure. I think when it was in peat I waited too long to water (about every 3-4 weeks) it because when I gently removed it from the pot half of the roots fell away, like they were too dry. Please pardon my inexperience. Should I change it so the gritty mix is also on the bottom? I'm afraid to touch it because the roots seemed so delicate. When I ran out of my mixture during re-potting I was wishing I put the 1 1/2 of gritty mix at the bottom. I have read about the PWT. I wasn't sure if that situation would create that and rot the roots so I left it alone. Perhaps what I did was worse. It sounds like your inferring my mixture is unusable? That's a subjective matter. I can say that I wouldn't use it, simply because I can very easily use a basic 5:1:1 or gritty mix, and by adding an extra handful of this or that, customize it for any plant. IOW, I can increase or decrease water retention over a wide range without sacrificing drainage or aeration. In most cases, if the grower tries to increase water retention, it's done by increasing the amount of perched water a soil holds, and perched water IS the limiting factor where excess water retention is in play. Should I pull it out, put a layer of gritty mix on the bottom and then some on the top (don't touch the root ball)? Are we still talking about the Sans? Forgive me. I worled outdoors all day and I'm at the point where it's hard to focus. If you're repotting the sans, I think you could repot directly into the BJ Gritty unless it wasn't screened. If it wasn't screened, you could use a slightly LARGER pot with ballast at the bottom.A link to More About Ballast. Here's the stuff about using a "Tell": Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al