Gosh Lesuko, I feel for you, as I had this exact same problem this spring already. I'm not sure if we have the same reasons, but we sure have/had the same results...unfortunately I lost every plant that showed the signs you have. You may have to start over from scratch like I did. For me - problem number 1 was too much heat. I learned on these forums that after the seedling sprouts, they like to grow in a much cooler environment. Also, add air. A little desk fan running 24/7 in the corner made a big difference for me too. The soil was also a problem for me but I can only guess as to the cause based on what happened AFTER I quit using it. I thought I had primo stuff...(I made it myself afterall!)...but as I was taught here, it was just not porous enough, held water, and sort of compacted inside the cell-pots. Also, it had no nutrients in it, which some say is okay for the first few weeks of plant life, but in my mix the combo spelled death. (But it's soooo black, and it has the perfect ingredients, and it looks so ideal, I lamented.) Well, maybe so, but the proof was in the pudding, and I had a high mortality rate. Same as you, I also had a fungus growing on the soil. So, I switched to a pre-mix formulation that my local feed store carries. 2nd batch faired much better. Now the water....I too, felt that DOD didn't seem right since I have hardly any humidity, and I'm still not convinced that it was a factor or that I was overwatering. Until, I dumped the dirt out in my hand after the plant finally croaked. It was moist, but not wet. Crumbly, soft, fluffy, [smelled moldy] which maybe the one indicator of a obvious moisture problem. Indeed, I had to listen to folks on these forums that know better than I, and I made a crucial adjustment. I stopped watering just because the top looked dry or felt dryish to the finger test. Instead, to satisfy my need to see nice black, moist dirt on top, I bought a pump sprayer and misted the tops, leaving the watering alone until it really WAS needed. To that mist I added foliar feeding fertilizer, and man, what a difference. Within two weeks, yellowing stopped and green started to take over. I really can't claim any credit, because before these forums helped me, my poor plantlets looked just like yours!

John is right about being outside - it will help to get rid of the spider mites as their natural predators live outside. Yes, your leave spots and dropping is due to spider mites, they can wreak terrible havoc on certain plants. So, spray with a hard stream of water to knock off as many as you can, treat with Neem very thoroughly, and follow John's advice about slowly. I think at your higher latitude, you can probably move into the sun a little faster than 2 weeks, but do it gradually. A few hours a day at a time, increasing a few more each day. Morning sun is less intense than afternoon sun. And Mike has a sharp eye - do treat all your indoor plants as they most likely all are infected to some degree and they'll continue to reinfect your little Meyer lemon if you bring it back inside. Patty S.

Hi Charlie I think you've probably got a few problems going on - phosphorus deficiency is highly likely and there is a possibility you have a few other more minor deficiencies as well. If you check out this page about diagnosing nutrient deficiencies you will be able to get some more information to help you diagnose the issues. The deficiency/ies may be due to a lack of nutrients in the soil but excess water and cold soil will also affect the ability of your plants to take up nutrients. My guess from the information that you have given is that a combination of these things is causing your issues. The above website has a page for each nutrient that describes in more detail the symptoms of nutrient deficiencies (and toxicities) as well as methods for treating the imbalances - including if you need to warm the soil, investigate other toxicities or deficiencies (as these can induce other nutrient imbalances) or reduce watering. As an example, this page describes the symptoms of phosphorus deficiency and how to treat phosphorus deficiency. You may also be interested in this blog post about someone purchasing new soil that was phosphorus deficient. Unfortunately, purchased soil can have as many problems as existing soil sometimes! Luckily there is a lot you can do to remediate your soil. I hope that helps but please feel free to ask any questions you may have.

All afternoon I've been watching all my roses. I grow about 110 and about 20 of them have some leaves with these spots. Only two or three are severely affected, the rest have scarcely any blotchy leaves. However I am glad of this inspection that I have performed. I have checked that only the leaves located at the bottom of the stems are stained with this color. All leaves that have grown later are healthy. None shows these spots. I understand therefore that there was a problem but that it is currently solved or in the process of being resolved. Otherwise the new leaves would not grow healthy. It is not true? I do not use in my garden products that can damage nature. Perhaps in an extreme case there is danger of losing a rosebush with much value to me. But for the moment I have not been given the case. Hastta now, the aphid, powdery mildew .... that are the diseases and plagues that have suffered my roses, I have been solving or at least reducing them using mixture of potassium soap with water, or of nettle manure. I do not know in what environmental situation the mildew occurs because I have never had it. Could you inform me so I can prevent it from appearing again in the future? We had at the end of March late frosts that have reached temperatures lower than normal. In my climate, frost is no longer frequent in March. I inspected all the roses after these two or three days of strong and late frost and they had no problem. Perhaps this intense cold after the outbreak of the first leaves could cause this problem?