Help! Conflicting info during flooring estimates-What materials?
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7 years ago
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7 years agoRelated Discussions
Patio - stamped concrete vs. pavers - Conflicting Info
Comments (18)You know, it's interesting how when we travel to Europe or other parts of the world where we can see buildings several hundred years old, we appreciate the patina of age on things -- plaster showing its age, cracked stone paving, irregular color in brick, time-worn marble, and so on. In the US we always want to rip out the old, solid materials because of minor imperfectons, and replace them with something shiny, new, and not necessarily of equal quality. If there is a real problem with your tiles -- undermined and unstable surface, safety issues, water leaks, or whatever -- sure, replace them. But otherwise the older material has charm that pavers do not have, in particular with your nice brick wall and balusters. You'd want all your architectural elements to be speaking the same language....See MoreFormer DIYer turned handyman - need some help with an estimate
Comments (13)How hard can it get? Here is an example: In the state of Florida to become a Plumber you have to complete a four year apprenticeship before you are permitted to sit for the license exam. During the apprenticeship you have to work a minimum of 40hrs per week for 200weeks, which is four years less vacation time(any week inwhich you work less than 40 hrs does not count). At the end of each week you have to submit a timecard to the state apprenticeship board and the timecard details how many hours you worked in each catergory for that week. During that four years you have to also attend a four year state approved technical school or college course where you study the Plumbing Code, plumbing theory, and a little bit on OSHA, workmans comp and necessary licensing requirements. At the end of the four years you get a Diploma from the Tech school, a certificate of completion from the state apprenticeship board and a letter of recommendation from the Master Plumber that you worked under. You then pay a $250 non-refundable testing fee and you are given a list of 12 books that you must bring with you for the exam. (The books are another $500, and given that they are rewritten about every 18 to 24 months to remain current, you have to buy new books). You then have to wait until the exams are being given (Only twice a year) and you have to travel to Tallahassee or Miami to take the exam. They allow you two full 8 hour days to complete the exam and statistically, 70% will fail the first time they take the exam. If you fail, you have to wait until the next testing cycle and pay the testing fee again before you can sit for the exam. I shall never forget my first night in the apprenticeship class. I too had been a DIY'er, who became a handyman, then went on to work maintenance in 3 large motel/conference centers, two hospitals and a municipal school district where we did all the maintenance in 9 public school buildings. I walked into the apprenticeship class room feeling really cock sure of myself. I had been doing plumbing work for nearly 15 years, how hard could this be? The instructor walked in and went to his desk. He says "I see we have a couple new faces, lets all introduce ourselves" and we made with the usual introductory small talk for about 10 minutes then the instructor says, "in honor of our new students, lets have a simple quiz tonight, and as soon as your done, you can go home early" He then opened a 4"dia PVC tube, took out a stack of building prints and began passing them out, one to each student. As he was passing them out he says "You guys will note that these are all simple one story 3br 3-1/2 bath on slab and I have marked a spot in the back yard where the septic tank will be. Your project is to do a complete DWV layout and annotate all pipe sizes and cleanout locations, then do an Isometric on a sheet of typing paper. As soon as your done you can lay your work on my desk and go home". One of the guys was done in 45minutes and perhaps half the class was done within the first hour while I sat there with a total of one line on my paper and the next week when we reviewed the work, I found out that was wrong. Finally two hours had passed and the class was over, so I turned my paper in, still with my one line... and I was feeling as dumb as a box of rocks. The instructor glanced at my print and says "not as easy as one might think is it? But don't worry, if you take the classes serious in 6 months you will be going home in 45minutes too."...See MoreHELP: is this a realistic estimate for radiant floor & geothermal
Comments (7)What a timely question. Just this week we submitted a proposal for a 10-ton system using 2- 5-ton Nordic EMDX units or 2-EMW, depending on whether the system will be open loop or DX. I would say your quote does sound high, however, I would not condemn this quote without speaking to your contractor. HereÂs what I would suggest. YouÂre definitely on the right track with the Nordic EMDX unit for all the reasons you already seem to know. Namely a solid reputation for building high-end products and having everything already built and installed in one ÂboxÂ. Keep in mind that these are large and heavy units to install. Be sure your installers can Âget them inÂ. Another reason youÂre on to something is that this (DX) unit will require 300-feet of drilling  total (3-100 foot boreholes), à 3-inches, instead of à 6-inches. ThatÂs a difference of 600 feet of drilling - and a lot less debris to deal with! In our case, because of the drill rig we use, we are able to drill boreholes for DX systems on a 30° off axis angle, in a radial pattern. What this means is that at the surface the borefield resembles the apex of a pyramid and then spreads out the further into the earth it goes. This technique allows us to drill quite close to the envelope we are space-conditioning (taking up very little real estate!) and requires very little trenching. In many cases trenching is done by one person with a pick and shovel, without having to use a mechanical excavator. I would suggest seeing whether this is a possibility for your installation as conventional geothermal (liquid/HDPE) and drilling techniques may otherwise result in your property resembling World War I France at Vimy Ridge before all is completed. You quote was for 300-ft boreholes per ton. ThatÂs rather a lot by almost any standard. What are your ground conditions like; do you have veins of water flowing through or a high water table (it doesnÂt sound like it)? Anyway, I hope this helps. SR...See MoreConflicting info about heat pumps in Georgia
Comments (33)Okay - thanks everyone for your input. I spent the evening looking over my bills and refiguring the math. I went with a the heat pump for several reasons. #1 - Going complete electric. The furnace was our only gas appliance and once I did the math, I realized it wasn't worth it to keep gas supplied for that because of the delivery charge. (see #2) #2 - in our case, electric heat is cheaper. See if you follow my math: Electric - Right now we pay $0.10 per kWh with an additional 12.77% service charge for various things. I didn't include the sales tax in this calculation b/c it is the same for both services. With fees, that would be $0.1135 per kWh With a HP at 9.5 HSPF, we pay $11.95 per million Btu. Natural Gas - Right now we are paying $0.74 per therm with a $27.99 per month delivery fee (which is standard for our area). Based on last years usage: 12 months x $27.99 = $335.88 We used 681 therms x $0.74 per therm = $503.94 Total cost of $839.82 / 681 therms = $1.23 per therm with fees. With a 95% Eff furnace that ends up being $12.95 per million Btu. Since we are improving the insulation, our therm usage may go down by 30% but our monthly service charge wills stay the same so: [(476 therms x $0.74 per therm) + $335.88 delivery charge] / 476 therms = $1.45 per therm with fees That would drive our our cost per million Btu to $15.26 So . . . Heat Pump Unit and Furnace + AC Units at equivalent efficiency cost the same thing - $5,200 Heat Pump costs $11.95 per mil Btu for heat Furnace costs $12.95-$15.26 per mil Btu for heat I am assuming the cost to cool will be equivalent since both units will use electricity and are equally efficient. In addition, I get $400 rebate on the heat pump. #3 - Our mild climate. While anecdotal, I talked to several people in my area with heat pumps and they were very happy with the temperature control in their house. No one had trouble with the heat pump keeping up during our short and infrequent cold snaps. #4 - Heat pump is greener. Natural gas is a fossil fuel and while fossil fuels are also used to generate electricity, there is always the opportunity for renewable energy sources to be introduced. If we get a NG furnace, we are stuck to only using fossil fuel as an energy source. So . . . that is why I decided on a heat pump. And yes, we are addressing all the insulation and air sealing issues so the house will (hopefully) not be drafty and conducive to heat pump being able to adequately heat our home. Thanks everyone!!!...See MoreUser
7 years ago
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