Pine trees gone! Fruit trees instead?
7 years ago
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Need help: producing a MULTI-grafted tree ['fruit cocktail tree']
Comments (25)Hey Scott, I just ordered a bunch of 3 gallon containers. I'm going to purchase a 'Saijo' and one other Asian persimmon. Then, in addition to my 'Meader' American, I'm going to purchase a 'Szukis' and one other American cultivar. I want to experiment, after these threes are established single (well-pruned specimens) in producing an Asian Persimmon duo multi-graft (Saijo and one other) and produce an American persimmon trio (Meader, Szukis, and one other). If they don't work out, it will be ok since I'll have them separately growing (pruned). 1.Since you highly recommend the PVNA Asian types, in addition to the 'Saijo', I want to grow one PVNA (perhaps 'Chocolate'); I live in Zone 6b, and I know that 'Saijo' is said to be cold-hardy down to -10F. What would be a recommended variety of PVNA that would be cold-hardy for zone 6? From what I've read, 'Chocolate' is not an option (whereas other sites contradict this, claiming it would work out in zone 6). 2. What varieties of American persimmon (flavor) are you familiar with? Some have suggested 'Szukis' is the best and that 'Meader' is not necessarily the best tasting variety, comparatively. 3. Do you think that I can, forever, continue to summer prune an American persimmon tree - if I wanted to keep it under 10' feet, or would this eventually stress and kill the tree years down the line? 4. As for the 'Saijo' and PVNA Asian varieties, can I place the tree only 8' from my pavers/walk way - or will the roots destroy the paves? I intend to prune the lowest branches so that the lowest limb is above 6' off the ground so that it can spread without obstructing the walk-way. Thanks, Steve...See MoreDwarf Fruit Tree -vs- Pruning Standard Fruit Tree?
Comments (18)Fruitnut, I have 2 methods and I'm sharing my trade secrets here (what the hell- I'm 6 months from 60 and hope to retire in 25 years anyway). I start some plants straight in the ground, planting them way too close in a fenced off area. Planting them close makes maintenance per plant much less expensive given that it's all done by hand (don't ask). For apples in my climate it takes about 3 years to size them up to about 1.5" diameter- at least when planted this close. I carefully dig up these BR and put them in short 20 gallon pots (wide and shallow) in a mix of 1 part peat, 1 composted wood chips or stable waste ( almost pure humus with some carbo lumps) and 1 sand, plus a little wood ash. They limp the first season but I sell them the next for around $180 per. At this point they are bearing, 12' tall and well branched and the foliage is back to mormal. Other trees I transfer to Carl Whitcomb grow bags in real soil and let them grow about another 3 years and sell them for $250 per, or less to contractors. The grow bags I use are his last edition because they allow more root out of the bag and I can grow them without any irrigation at all- even through drought. Irrigation would reduce production by about a year, I'm sure, but in my operation only my potted plants get any and they are set in the soil as well. I always take some trees in the grow bags, remove the bags and put them into 25 Gallon pots with the soil intact but surrounded by my potting mix which allows me to sell some larger trees during the growing season. Surprisingly the soil surrounded by potting mix works very well and you might want to try that method for your trees as the soil gives you much more bang per square inch and costs less. Repotting would require only replacing the artificial soil on the edge of the soil ball. It makes things real heavy though, and my soil is not too fine so I don't know how it would work with a more clay soil but I bet it would work just fine. I'm sure my prices seem outrageous by your regional standards but I'm less than an hour from NYC and here it's more than competitive- it's the best deal around- because I have scores of varieties and they're actually properly shaped for fruit production. They also plug in better than the competitions BB'd trees, especially the ones I have in pots....See Morepics of tropical fruit tree order from Jenes and Pine Island
Comments (16)Lycheeluva, what made you decide to go with the Fairchild variety? I went back and forth myself between that and Cogshall but decided on Cogshall since a lot has been written about it. The Fairchild sounds good with its disease resistance and being from hot and humid Panama which might make it a better choice in a greenhouse. I've got that one on my list as my next choice if I can squeeze another one in....See MoreIdeas for EASY fruit trees/bushes and nut trees, please?!
Comments (2)Something I have been looking into recently is the Evans Bali cherry tree. It will hold itself at around 20 ft or less, produces like crazy (100+ lbs once established) and gets mad if you try to baby it (low maintenance). It is considered a tart cherry, but if left to hang on the tree they sweeten to the point that they can be enjoyed fresh. Much like the romance cherries released from University of Saskatchewan. Pears on the OHxF 333 rootstock will stay under 20 ft as well. Some varieties that are fireblight resistant are Warren (self fertile), Harrow Delight, Blakes Pride and Moonglow. These have good flavor and the last 3 will cross pollinate. Pears don't like too much babying either. Apples get taken to the cleaners in Utah and by the time you get done spraying them for everything that will hassle them they will be less organic than store bought ones. Most late blooming peaches from Dave Wilson Nursery on Citation rootstock will do fine. Citation will hold peaches/nectarines to 15 ft and does well in the heavy soil we have here. Check bloom times and find a late bloomer. I am playing with Indian Free, O'henry and Spice Zee. You can also get dwarf peaches and nectarines that will only Beautiful for edible landscaping. Hope these ideas help....See More- 7 years ago
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Georgia Zone 8a