Jade Plant losing leaves and branches
clay peabody
7 years ago
Hello friends. I have a 15 year old jade tree that's in some trouble, and would love some advice.
This plant was thriving until about a year ago, when I moved it to a larger pot and different location in the house. As best I can tell, I made several mistakes:
1. The pot was too large
2. The soil mixture was likely much too heavy
3. There wasn't as much light in the new space
As you'd expect, the plant started losing leaves, and then whole branches. Plus, it's getting very leggy (not enough light, right?) and I don't know what to do.
I sprayed most of the soil off the roots, and it appears that some of the roots are still okay, and I cut off the ones that looked to be rotten. On the tree itself, there are a couple of "trunks" that look pretty healthy, and one in particular that doesn't.
I plan on re-potting in a small planter, with a better soil mixture (50% cactus soil, 50% perlite). But my question is: should I plant the whole thing, or should I divide into multiple trees. Naturally, I'd like to keep the whole thing intact, but I don't know that that's an option at this point.
I trust and appreciate the knowledge amongst regular posters on this board, so I'm really helping that someone can make a suggestion as to how to proceed. Thank you all very much!
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (8)
Related Discussions
Jade Plant Dropping Branches
Comments (7)Hi Lisa, Besides doing the reading as suggested above, I have another idea. You've mentioned what I suspect is a problem or at least a contributor to the problem. A large clay pot & a small rootball; that's a bad combination & increases likelihood of rot. I'd pot it down some to a pot not much larger than the rootball at least 'til you improve the mix. Yes, pix would help, but post them here, using a photohosting site like Photobucket or Flicker (they're free)....See MoreJade Losing Almost All Leaves Please Help!
Comments (3)At the risk of sounding rude (which I hope I don't in questioning this), I'd just ask, are you sure it was cold enough inside your school for parts of the plant to freeze? If so, brrrrrrrr. If temperatures drop under 40 degrees, I don't keep my jades outside at that point, and jades certainly are not frost tolerant, but I would be surprised if your inside temperatures have dropped below 40? But maybe they have right next to a very old window during the winter. I only question it because other factors could cause parts of the plant to die off, and the plant may not have been at optimum health to begin with, based on it being indoors and not having big, healthy roots. It sounds to me, based on details such as your saying the root system is small, that the plant is probably not in well-draining soil and that it's possibly not receiving enough light (they don't thrive as indoor plants). Parts of the plant dying back and leaf loss are indicative of a situation where the roots are unhealthy (confirmed by a small root system), and rot could happen as the roots continue to die off. And no, there won't be a stench with the rot. If the root system is small, that's perhaps the biggest indicator that the soil is too heavy. If it's in bagged soil, even so-called "cactus soil" from a store or nursery, that won't be well-draining enough. You'd want to mix well-draining ingredients like pumice or perlite into that soil to lighten it. Also, it's important not to overwater. I wait until the leaves have a very slight give to them--the plant will actually tell you when it wants water. You don't want to wait until the leaves are wrinkled or anything close to, but you can learn to feel the leaves and discern if they are barely less plump than they are normally, and at that point I water and the leaves plump up again. And again, in the wrong soil the plant will retain way too much moisture for too long, so that'd be the first issue to look into. This post was edited by teatree on Fri, Jun 28, 13 at 20:27...See MoreJade tree is losing a lot of leaves!
Comments (12)Salt levels = a total of everything dissolved in the water that is in the soil. That includes the dissolved solids in your tapwater (if you water with tap water) and the fertilizer salts the plant doesn't use. These dissolved solids accumulate in the soil and make it difficult for the plant to take up water and can cause the plant to shed leaves or die - but that's probably not happening to your plant. There is an ideal ratio between the nutrients that should be in your soil at all times. When that ratio gets skewed (out of whack), it's bad for the plant. Some people will argue that fish tank water is a good thing, but they won't be able to tell you why they think it's better than a sound fertilizer supplementation plan. It is better than no fertilizer, but has no potential to help if you have a solid plan in place. Because you're a beginner, it might not do me any good to try to explain why, but I will if you want to take a stab at it. The soil + sand is probably not a good choice because it's going to hold a LOT of excess water, and jades don't like soggy soils. You can work around that issue by being very careful about how/when you water, but it's far from ideal. Al...See MoreJade plant/tree - advice to encourage growth & branching?
Comments (22)There is usually no need to cut off branches with some bugs on, but plant should be treated to get rid of them asap. Spraying with solution or full strength rubbing alcohol usually works. Treatment needs to be repeated since there are (almost) always eggs around that will hatch. Look up life cycle of mealy bugs to see how fast they reproduce...If the infection is really huge, some 'big guns' chemicals could be used - sorry, I can't really recommend since I not used anything else beside RA. Whenever treating plant, keep it out of strong sunlight. And keep infected plant away from others since bugs may spread. Coloring up on the underside and margins of leaves is good - sign of plant getting sufficient sunshine. All plants should be acclimatized to good light, since it's usually hard to tell what light conditions they were growing in. When I have leaves propagating, they typically do not take very long before roots and/or plantlets start growing. Keep them in bit shadier spot until then, they do not need strong sunlight while trying to root. Try not to fuss and check on the all the time, they will do what they want to do if undisturbed. And, "watched pot never boils" :) I would still suggest that plant in pic #1 is somehow etiolated: space between the leaves = internodes, could be tighter. It also seems to be leaning in one direction - but maybe it is just an angle photo was taken from. Do not keep putting "plants outside whenever it is sunny" - if you have outdoors space use it, leaving plants there 24/7. Nothing is better for plants than outdoors :) Obviously, they should all be acclimatized as mentioned before. I see that you used a clear container for one of them - while not a big problem, there is no need for roots to be exposed to direct light. Sunlight could cause some algae growth eventually, again - this will not kill the plant but may be unsightly (I have used similar containers at times). If in well draining mix, with drainage holes in a container, plants could be watered more often. Mine are all outside since Spring, and get rained on. This year, sometimes 3x/week. No problem at all, since they are all in gritty and have drainage. While outside and exposed to possible rain, it may be good idea to keep them out of cachepots and saucers - eliminating worries about excess water. Many succulents will grow thru the winter - it all depends what conditions they are kept in. If you supply plenty of light and some warmth, they will continue growing....See More
rina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoclay peabody thanked rina_Ontario,Canada 5aclay peabody
7 years agorina_Ontario,Canada 5a
7 years ago
myermike_1micha
7 years ago
Related Stories
EARTH DAYThe Case for Losing the Traditional Lawn
Work less, help the environment and foster connections by just saying no to typical turf
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Parkinsonia Florida
Blue palo verde's trunk and branches provide a beautiful backdrop to a spectacular spring show in the desert
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Rhus Glabra
Smooth sumac provides powerful jolts of fall color and persistent fruit clusters that add interest through the winter
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Ogon Spirea for Radiance and Texture
This feathery shrub will light up your garden with its bright color and easygoing personality
Full Story0
LANDSCAPE DESIGNGreat Design Plant: Retreat to the Shade of Hardy Catalpa
Big foliage and a towering height provide a shady respite in summer, but that's not all hardy catalpa offers dedicated gardeners
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Velvety Dwarf Bottlebrush Beckons a Touch
Brilliant red blooms and inviting textures will capture your heart, but the low maintenance and small size will win over your practical side
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Olneya Tesota Offers Desert Shade
This long-lived Southwestern native tree decorates the sky with its dusty gray-green foliage and lavender-colored blossoms
Full Story
GARDENING FOR BUTTERFLIESGreat Design Plant: California Fuchsia Brings Color and Hummingbirds
Set this summer perennial up in a dry and sunny spot for blazing orange or red blooms into fall
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESGreat Design Plant: Sambucus Nigra
Common elderberry is a highly adaptable shrub from the eastern U.S., with berries galore for wildlife and humans alike
Full Story
LANDSCAPE DESIGNThe 7 Best Plant Types for Creating Privacy and How to Use Them
Follow these tips for using different kinds of plants as living privacy screens
Full Story
chippedchinaplate