Critique my SF Bay Area landscape design?
girlguineapig
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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Oaktown
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Landscape designer recommendation: San Francisco Bay Area
Comments (1)If you could find someone who has had work done you like, find out who did it for them that would be best. It's important to get a designer who has shown desired tendencies. Not all are inclined to take the same approach, theoretically any and all should be willing and able to do any project but that's not how it works at all. You often have to identify a designer who "does" the sort of thing you want just like shopping for a tool....See MoreVintage Order ideas for SF bay area (peninsula)
Comments (8)For the shaded area, on the wall, I would plant Alba Semi Plena, and Felicite Parmentier, from vintagegardens.com or Hortico.com (mail order in September) with six hours of full sun you have a wide choice of roses in our latitude, From roguevalleyroses.com and a.r.e. on the wall with trellising support Crepescule on the wall Marachel Niel on the wall, Spray Cecille Brunner, on the wall Mme. Alfred Carriere Reve d'Or or grown with lower canes removed as a self supporting bush. from pickeringnurseries.com in septermber Celine Forestier grown as a bush or climber M.A.C. Alistair Stlella Gray for a climbing rose or stripped of lower canes and grown as a 6' tall shrub. pickeringnurseries.com For deep and rich fragrance. vintagegardens.com Mme. Boll Musk scent. Reverend Seidel R. moschata I'd plant several of these in a row where the breeze with carry the sweet musk scent for several yards away from the bush. Horico.com Arrilaga , huge spiral centered silvery pink cabbage shaped roses, good rebloom, needs full sun for those large blooms and gets some p.m. nearer the coast. Baronne Prevost very fragrant and disease resistant, here. Autumn Damask' roguevalleyroses.com fragrant and very pretty. Grandmothers Hat, a great reliable rose, Morcom park in Oakland has several of these planted in a row, grown 5' tall, as well as a climbing rose. fragrant and disease resistant. annies annuals may have some if rogue valley has sold out. vintagegardens has already sold out of all the Tea roses, but you could buy these from roguevalley roses.com or a.r.e.: Mrs. B.R. Cant , pink, fragrant and long blooming season, it blooms from March through early December in my garden. Westside Road Cream Tea' white and scented, 4' by 4' 1/2' tall, very resistant to p.m. a row of these with Grandmothers Hat in back would be my idea of fragrant beauty. , i Cornelia' from hortico.com they sell it as a Musk rose, it is my favorite rose bred by Pemberton, small blossoms in profusion, scented of musk and rose. Blush Noisette' Mermaid (hortico.com a climbing rose that I've espaliered on my back fence to keep it in line, spicy fragrant lemon yellow rose with beautiful red filiments. Red and fragrant Hybrid Tea rosebushes, disease resistant in my no spray gardens: Souvenir du Claudius DeNoyal Crimson Glory Papa Meilland , not floriferous but the cupped roses are huge goblets filled with perfume, when fed well. In our latitude all the China, Old Garden Tea and Noisette rose are shade tolerant, for roses this means they still need 6 hours of full sun, or 4 hours of full sun and 4 hours of filtered sun the most fragrant Tea I've ever smelled is 'Anna Olivier' it is very disease resistant even on the coast by the highway near Monteray. alba class roses need fewer hours of sun: 4 to 5 will serve in this latitude, all Alba roses bloom for 3 to 4 weeks in one bloom season each year, but they are very pretty plants even when out of bloom. I have grown all the roses listed above except for Reverend Seidel' in my no spray gardens in Oakland, and Richmond, Califonria. Roses to avoid in no-spray gardens in or near San Francisco, Ca or wherever conditoins favor the spread of powdery mildew: Georgetown Tea Ducher' both defoliated in my garden from p.m. and this greatly lessened bloom production. Feed the soil first before you think of fertilzing. I love Orchard Hardwares "Rose Soil" I used to have to mix c. 10 different items and micronutriets with alfalfa meal and bone meal etc. but its all in the rose soil. I use 1/2 bag for each hole for a regular sized rosebush (4 to 5' tall) to a full bag for climbers, and large Tea rosebushes, be sure and mix native soil in with it, or you will get the bathtub effect. 50% to 60% rose soil depending on if you have the heavy California clay that I do. a shovel full of well rotted manure, horse is very good, organic steer manure is also fine 25% to 33% of native soil, the soil from the hole you dug. well rotted compost to bring it up to 100% just f.y.i. I'd do a ph test before you begin, roses like slightly acid soil, do another test after you mix the soil blend and plant the first rosebush. Good luck, Luxrosa...See MoreNeed a landscape designer referral - Bay Area
Comments (8)Hi GerberaDaisy, When I read your email, I almost had a heart attack myself! ;) My lot size is similar to yours and was just a lot of unplanted dirt, except for the deck abutting the house. I am a SAHM, so I have had the time to educate myself and do most of the work myself.....which is what I am highly recommending. It is not rocket science, it is great exercise, and the feeling of accomplishment is unbeatable. In contrast, my neighbor went the professional route and is still ripping out what her person planted because it turned out to be inappropriate for this area. Caveat emptor! If you are open to doing more yourself, here is what I'd recommend........ Spend time learning about your lot, where the sun shines, where the darker corners are....check lots and lots of books and magazines from the library and see what you like, don't like....drive around and look at other front landscapes to see what the common themes are (usually the plants that grow well in your area will become self-evident) take digitals of what what you like and put it all in a binder and become familar with the plants.....and attend as many gardening tours as you can, asking a lot of questions if you see what you like....for example, who helped them design it, where did they buy the plants, etc. etc......there will be many soon.....google for your area.....here are 2 EXCELLENT tours in my area (which isn't too far of a drive for you) http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/ http://www.stopwaste.org/home/index.asp?page=8 After deciding on more or less what we wanted, I hired a local landscape contractor to put in french drains and a simple side yard concrete pad. Then I hired a different (more sophisticated and more expensive) contractor to install a large flagstone patio (over rebarred concrete) with connecting paths to several areas of the yard....garden rooms....which seems to be what people are doing these days. Now I am in the process of filling my several garden "rooms" with plants. The only thing I would change, is to have hired Alison Fleck for her consulting services BEFORE I put the permanent structures in....not that I am regretting what I did, but there may have been another scheme I would have liked. Here is her web page: http://www.simplyperfectgardens.com/ I admit, I have become quite the gardener, and if it doesn't interest you at all, you may want to hire-out.....it has truely become a labor of love for me. ...and I have to say, that this forum has been very supportive of me and there are several regular posters that have educated me/helped me tremendously. good luck! ----lucia in CoCo County...See Moreopen loop solar water heating in SF bay area
Comments (3)Hi, Yes, the drain backs for domestic water heating do need a heat exchanger. Its often a coil of copper pipe in the drain back tank. You also need the drain back tank itself. The pump depends on how high the collectors are above the drain back tank. It also should be a bronze pump since the system is open to air. $200 buys a nice bronze Taco or Grundfos. When you are collecting sun, you are pulling about 160 BTU/sf-hr of collector, or abut 8000 BTU/hr if you have 50 sf of collector. This is about 2400 watts being collected. An extra 50 watts to drive a bigger pump is pretty small potatoes compared to that? I can see the appeal of the open loop system for you. I suppose that if you made a point of checking that the differential controllers circulate when close to freezing feature and the drip valve were working at the start of each season, it might work out OK. I would guess most failures come from owner inattention. The collectors are looking at the cold night sky, and lose a lot of heat to sky radiation -- this will make them run colder than the air temperature on cold nights -- so if the air is near freezing, your collector panels are likely below freezing. So, you would really need to stay on top of maintaining your freeze protection features. Gary...See MoreOaktown
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoYardvaark
7 years agoKim in PL (SoCal zone 10/Sunset 24)
7 years agoJSL Landscape Design Build
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoRenee Texas
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agodaylily
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agodaylily
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agoYardvaark
7 years agoEdwin Espino
7 years agoJSL Landscape Design Build
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoFori
7 years agoVizX Design Studios, LLC
7 years ago
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