More browns than greens needed?
tete_a_tete
7 years ago
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Need to make sure HOA is satisfied with lawn no more than that.
Comments (15)Reelfanatic--Most of the people who post here are lawn fanatics of one sort or another. I'm one of the "another" types. I live in desert conditions, but KBG is the most prevalent grass. I think that's wasteful and eventually unsustainable. I'm still fanatic about my lawn, but I'm fanatic about getting a lawn that will use very little water. My goals are different from the OP's goals, but much of what I've learned will apply. David--I don't think KBG will be a good choice in this instance because the OP is in Colorado and doesn't want to water. Colorado doesn't get enough water for KBG to survive, much less spread. In a post on the Rocky Mountain forum, I suggested a mix that was developed by a Utah company as a cabin mix. It's a mixture of sheep fescue, crested wheatgrass and streambank wheatgrass. The sheep fescue is a bunchgrass, but will tiller aggressively if it's mowed. Most crested wheatgrasses are bunch grasses, but the one in this mix is rhizomatous. Streambank wheatgrass is also rhizomatous. This mix won't produce a showcase lawn, but it will produce a lawn that will live with no irrigation in Colorado and will stay green if it's watered a couple of times a month....See MoreNeed to make sure HOA is satisfied with lawn no more than that.
Comments (9)Well in regard to the post by treebarb I have been in trouble with the homeowners association more than I would like to mention but not over grass except this last time. I have about 4 x 4 yards of Kentucky bluegrass in the corner near my mailbox. That patch or whatever you call it met the homeowners association requirements even though it doesn't look anything like the rest of the lawn. I certainly don't want to do my entire lawn in Kentucky bluegrass. I may consider pulling out that patch eventually. I really liked the dormant seeding suggestion above them looked on these forums for thread where people were talking more about it but as of now I haven't found a thread in our rocking Mountain regional forum. Consequently yesterday I did a post on Dormant seeding -- Now in the north? thread. I am wondering if somebody here good luck at the link I have just given an answer my question either here or there. I would certainly appreciate that. Does anybody know of a dormant seeding thread for this region? My search didn't yield anything....See Moreare "greens" always "greens" and "browns" always "browns"?
Comments (8)Mary, this is an excellent question and one you shouldn't be embarrassed by :-) The terms 'green' and 'brown' to describe either carbon or nitrogen sources really do describe their coloration as well. Greens - the N source - really are "green"....or very close to it. They are fresh plant parts - grass clippings, debris from the veg garden, plant trimmings, weeds (without seeds), seaweed, fresh leaves, kitchen waste, etc. The non-green greens also include coffee grounds and eggshells (as considered kitchen waste). And fresh animal manures. Browns - the C source - are more "brown" than not: fall leaves, twigs, stems, chipped brush, other wood products, straw or hay, cardboard and other paper products, sawdust, pine straw, etc. IOW, dry or dead material. And yes, some materials can be both, depending on the stage they are in their life cycle. Green, fresh leaves, like might be generated by pruning, are a N source - dried, fallen leaves (dead) gathered up in fall become a prime source of C. It is a little bit more complicated than this - what determines whether a material is really a green or a brown is its ratio of carbon to nitrogen. But in general, most greens are green and fresh and most browns are brown and dried/dead. From th Organic Gardening Forum FAQ:the difference between greens and browns....See MoreNeed advice on 1.5 year old sod that's brown with green spots
Comments (35)Wilting is actually not necessarily a demand or request for watering, it's a statement that water is leaving the system faster than it's being absorbed--or that the root systems are not up to supplying water as quickly as the leaf systems are transpiring it. It actually doesn't say anything about the state of moisture in the soil, which can be entirely adequate. Cool-season organisms will typically wilt when out of their temperature comfort ranges rather easily, so grasses would certainly be susceptible. It's not an issue for grass to wilt mid-day in 90-degree weather, any more than it's an issue for most plants to do so. One of my best photos of the garden is in hundred degree weather and the greenery is a bit wilted. The issue would be if the grass remains wilted after sunset when the roots have time to catch up and resupply the blades with water when the blade cools and the biological processing rates slow to something the roots can supply. Furthermore, day-wilting produces hormonal responses that spark root growth as temperatures fall in the soil to where root growth can resume. Constantly supplying water as temperatures cross that point mean that root growth never starts when temperatures are appropriate for said growth. Consistent coddling never produces the deep mat of roots that will support grass (or any plant) against wilting, which means it will continue to wilt in less-harsh weather than more harshly-treated lawns. There's a minor argument for syringing the lawn here, but that's not what we're discussing. That involves a drop of surface leaf temperature due to water contact and evaporative cooling, not a root watering....See Moretete_a_tete
7 years agotoxcrusadr
7 years agotete_a_tete
7 years ago
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